1971 Datsun 521

[datzenmike]

Well you might trade for different things that are wrong if you do. The Weber may just need adjusting.

[Draven521]

1 hour ago, datzenmike said:

Well you might trade for different things that are wrong if you do. The Weber may just need adjusting.

Noted. Am I on the right track with all this? Just want to make sure I’m not screwing anything up. I love this truck and can’t wait to drive it. All of this has been a learning experience and I can’t wait to learn more 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Weber DGV is probably the easiest carb in the world to work on and maintain.

 

Fuel pump - if you can find replacement diaphragm, then get one. If not, get a replacement pump. There are Nikki pumps out there, but there are also Nikkin knockoffs that look identical. Don't buy the cheap stamped steel pumps. Those look atrocious in a Datsun engine bay.

[banzai510(hainz)]

ez to check a fuel pump just ull the output line and point in safe direction and see if gas comingout.

 

ebay had soem 510/521 pumps around 80$ if you really need one. and thats a good price. make sure it matches your input out put direction for ezer hook up. But other L motor pumps will work just the inlet is on different sides

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

19 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

ez to check a fuel pump just ull the output line and point in safe direction and see if gas comingout.

 

ebay had soem 510/521 pumps around 80$ if you really need one. and thats a good price. make sure it matches your input out put direction for ezer hook up. But other L motor pumps will work just the inlet is on different sides

Easy to check to see if it works, but it's been sitting a long time, and is destined to fail soon enough. Ten years is the absolute most amount of time a vehicle can sit before all rubber pieces got to shit. Hoses, belts, seals, diaphragms, etc

[Draven521]

1 hour ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Easy to check to see if it works, but it's been sitting a long time, and is destined to fail soon enough. Ten years is the absolute most amount of time a vehicle can sit before all rubber pieces got to shit. Hoses, belts, seals, diaphragms, etc

I feel like a lot of what I’m saying is being dismissed. Again I’m not an idiot. The rubber hoses have been replaced. As I progress on to the next thing I properly replace what needs to be replaced. Belts been replaced as well.

[banzai510(hainz)]

1 hour ago, Draven521 said:

I feel like a lot of what I’m saying is being dismissed.

should be running then.

[Draven521]

17 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

should be running then.

Again I think you’ve dismissed what was said before. It was running for 45 minutes at idle. I’m just here to figure out why it cuts off when I give it gas and get more insight about how everything works together. I’m here to learn about my truck not get talked to like I’m stupid. I’m very aware of the things I’m supposed to avoid when getting the engine going. The truck is timed, just got the battery recharged. I’m getting spark and I’m guessing I’m getting fuel or else it wouldn’t have turned over in the first place right? The way you’ve responded back has just sounded like you’ve been talking to me like I was stupid. Yes I’m new to this but I also have common sense. I’m here to learn 
 

you’re saying there’s debris in my lines but the hoses are new. Seems like Mike has said some helpful things and I’m going to put those into play. If you could shine some insight about what might be happening that would be cool. It’s not the stock carb. I think it was you who knew something about the 32/36 Weber. I located my adjustment screws I just don’t know how to adjust it to the proper mixture 

[Draven521]

29 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

should be running then.

Also I see the (hainz) thing in your name, are you the guy that did the full engine tear down? 

[banzai510(hainz)]

cuts out when give gas i??

maybe  acell pump on side of carb.  Is gas squirting in when you push or cycle the pedal? If yes you see a squirt then accel pump is good.

timing could be off. OK at idle then goes out of time. Most times this can happen when somebody rebuilds the motor and puts the oil pump dist in off a tooth.  Im not there to see Im only guessing from afar. if distributor is cranked to one side to get say 10degs this could be it.

Hoses replaced ,dont mean there is junk in the tank. 521s have a habit of rusting the tank as water gets passed the fuel hose then rots the tank from inside.My 521 the prevois owner said the gas gauge would actually rise when raining. Your in San Antonio which maybe be highly unlikely but couls happen. Also the dirt builds but there also on the brake line and would ck for rust there also where fuel lfiller goes to the tank.

I had a 510 that a tiny rock block the main jet my 32/36. run at idle but give it gas would cut out. I pulled the choke on and got home that way.also a weak alternator might do this also. when a load would come on it would cut out.example heater Lights. 

also my 510 I had a capcitor that was bad and above idle that would cut out. But got rid of my points for a a Pertronix, But even that dist wore out when the bushing or springs on the weight inside the dist.

19 minutes ago, Draven521 said:

how to adjust it to the proper mixture 

If you can idle the mixture is good for now

 

Yes,Vid wasnt a tear down persay but on how to do timing chains and oil pump installs as most motors are LOST right here when newer people make a first attempt.Mostly new kids getting 510s/521/ 620s

Edited October 22, 2023 by banzai510(hainz)

[Draven521]

4 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

cuts out when give gas i??

maybe  acell pump on side of carb.  Is gas squirting in when you push or cycle the pedal? If yes you see a squirt then accel pump is good.

timing could be off. OK at idle then goes out of time. Most times this can happen when somebody rebuilds the motor and puts the oil pump dist in off a tooth.  Im not there to see Im only guessing from afar. iof distributor is cranked to one side to get say 10degs this could be it.

Hoses replaced ,dont mean there is junk in the tank. %21s have a habit of rusing the tank as water gets passed the fuel hose then rots the tank from inside.

I had a 510 that a tiny rock block the main jet my 32/36. run at idle but give it gas would cut out. I pulled the choke on and got home that way.also a weak alternator might do this also. when a load would come on it would cut out.example heater Lights. 

also my 510 I had a capcitor that was bad and above idle that would cut out. But got rid of my points for a a Pertronix, But even that dist wore out when the bushing or springs on the weight inside the dist.

If you can idle the mixture is good for now

So I’ll look into the oil pump dist, I put a new distributor in but didn’t pay any attention to that. I don’t think I’ve noticed fuel squirting in, I thought maybe it was because of the type of carb which is why I couldn’t see it but if your telling me I should see fuel squirting in than maybe it may be blocked. I don’t have the fuel line drawing fuel from the tank. I’m going to drop the tank today and check it. I have a 3 liter bottle with gasoline in it as my fuel source when I’m trying to turn it over. When it did idle it was pulling in fuel just fine. The alternator is new, I’ve pretty much got the entire ignition system updated. Where is the main jet located? I’m not familiar with carburetors at all! 

[banzai510(hainz)]

yes just cycle the gas when running and look in from the top. the valve cover side you should see it SQUIRT in the main barrel of the carb.

be honest I rarely see them fail in Webers. I see them LEAK from the side and drain down and leak on exhaust manifold.  Most times it the orginal carb where they just worn out. or weak stream.

 

another thing I have seen if the 2nd barrel is not shut closed all the way it can BOG out. there is a spring to keep it closed untill the mechasism tells it to open.after the main berrel opens about 50/75%, Youll see it.

 

Main jet is inside the carb in the front bowl section.  I would go to that yet to break open a carb.

 

If your running from a bottle then I will kinda assume your gas is clean. But if you run it before or prvious owner Im not sure.

 

New alternator one still should measure across the battery with a volt meter and see what you get. Most alternators are junk. I would get 8mos to 1.5 years out of them. but if you get say 13.7v with nothing ON its OK.

[Draven521]

30 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

yes just cycle the gas when running and look in from the top. the valve cover side you should see it SQUIRT in the main barrel of the carb.

be honest I rarely see them fail in Webers. I see them LEAK from the side and drain down and leak on exhaust manifold.  Most times it the orginal carb where they just worn out. or weak stream.

 

another thing I have seen if the 2nd barrel is not shut closed all the way it can BOG out. there is a spring to keep it closed untill the mechasism tells it to open.after the main berrel opens about 50/75%, Youll see it.

 

Main jet is inside the carb in the front bowl section.  I would go to that yet to break open a carb.

 

If your running from a bottle then I will kinda assume your gas is clean. But if you run it before or prvious owner Im not sure.

 

New alternator one still should measure across the battery with a volt meter and see what you get. Most alternators are junk. I would get 8mos to 1.5 years out of them. but if you get say 13.7v with nothing ON its OK.

So I’m out here rn with it, I just got my battery charged and it already sounds like it’s drained. How do I test my alternator and starter?

[Draven521]

46 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

yes just cycle the gas when running and look in from the top. the valve cover side you should see it SQUIRT in the main barrel of the carb.

be honest I rarely see them fail in Webers. I see them LEAK from the side and drain down and leak on exhaust manifold.  Most times it the orginal carb where they just worn out. or weak stream.

 

another thing I have seen if the 2nd barrel is not shut closed all the way it can BOG out. there is a spring to keep it closed untill the mechasism tells it to open.after the main berrel opens about 50/75%, Youll see it.

 

Main jet is inside the carb in the front bowl section.  I would go to that yet to break open a carb.

 

If your running from a bottle then I will kinda assume your gas is clean. But if you run it before or prvious owner Im not sure.

 

New alternator one still should measure across the battery with a volt meter and see what you get. Most alternators are junk. I would get 8mos to 1.5 years out of them. but if you get say 13.7v with nothing ON it’s OK.

Now when I try to turn it over it’s just a click. Sometimes I’ll get a slight turn over but it’s struggling to spin 

[Draven521]

35 minutes ago, Draven521 said:

Now when I try to turn it over it’s just a click. Sometimes I’ll get a slight turn over but it’s struggling to spin 

So now a new problem has come up. My battery is holding voltage when connected. However, when I flip everything to the on position it drops .01 volts per second. I don’t know if that’s normal. My coil is not getting a full 12 volts anymore. And I’m not even sure if my alternator is doing its job.

[datzenmike]

Battery is dead or close. Recharge it or get a boost.

 

Alternator only recharges the battery when the engine is running. So don't worry about it for now.

[Draven521]

27 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

Battery is dead or close. Recharge it or get a boost.

 

Alternator only recharges the battery when the engine is running. So don't worry about it for now.

I’m thinking my starter is struggling. Do I replace the whole thing? It’s a couple weeks old. Kind of got abused when trying to start it the first time 

[datzenmike]

The starter will sound like it's struggling if the battery is low.

 

It will also struggle if you cranked it continuously till the battery was dead and burned it out.

 

Recharge the battery or get a boost. If the starter sounds better than the battery was low. If it still struggles perhaps it's burned out.

 

Why was the starter replaced?????

[Draven521]

1 hour ago, datzenmike said:

The starter will sound like it's struggling if the battery is low.

 

It will also struggle if you cranked it continuously till the battery was dead and burned it out.

 

Recharge the battery or get a boost. If the starter sounds better than the battery was low. If it still struggles perhaps it's burned out.

 

Why was the starter replaced?????

I replaced the starter just to have it updated. Should I put the old one back in?

[datzenmike]

Original equipment is almost always, and far and away better quality, than after market. This includes alternators, carburetors, brake shoes/pads, ignition wires and parts, just about everything. Dealers mark it up 40%? so if it's $180 for a new starter then a reasonable good after market starter is around +- $140. If a 'rebuilt' starter is $80 just how good are the replaced parts in it?

 

Yes try the old starter. If still slow cranking then battery (either low on charge or bad) and it it cranks properly then the new starter is at fault.

 

I never throw away old parts.  

[banzai510(hainz)]

when you have a new battery and you measure your coil at the +side coil you will get only like 6-9 volts if I remember right. cause your going thru the ballast resisitor.

Measure at the Black white wire going into the ballast resisitor. this will read the battery voltage.  But right at start everything drops. there will be a bypass wire at the +coil or a jumper into the connector for 2 wires. this is the bypass during start.  I will assume you didnt fuck with it.

 

make sure the battery cables are not cracked also this will give a weak start.

 

Unfortunatly I think you maybe have repalece to many stuff at once and we dont know what is good bad or you missed wired soemthing, installed bad part ect...

 

I never lay on the starter more that 10 secs. If motor is timed and correct once the gas gets t the carb it should fire off.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

22 hours ago, Draven521 said:

I feel like a lot of what I’m saying is being dismissed. Again I’m not an idiot. The rubber hoses have been replaced. As I progress on to the next thing I properly replace what needs to be replaced. Belts been replaced as well.

I was responding to Hainz.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

18 hours ago, Draven521 said:

So now a new problem has come up. My battery is holding voltage when connected. However, when I flip everything to the on position it drops .01 volts per second. I don’t know if that’s normal. My coil is not getting a full 12 volts anymore. And I’m not even sure if my alternator is doing its job.

I just had a battery fail last week. It was only 8 months old and held 12 volts, but it lost a cell. They will still show 12 volts, but if you do a load test, you'll see the cranking amps drop to nothing.

[Draven521]

2 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

when you have a new battery and you measure your coil at the +side coil you will get only like 6-9 volts if I remember right. cause your going thru the ballast resisitor.

Measure at the Black white wire going into the ballast resisitor. this will read the battery voltage.  But right at start everything drops. there will be a bypass wire at the +coil or a jumper into the connector for 2 wires. this is the bypass during start.  I will assume you didnt fuck with it.

 

make sure the battery cables are not cracked also this will give a weak start.

 

Unfortunatly I think you maybe have repalece to many stuff at once and we dont know what is good bad or you missed wired soemthing, installed bad part ect...

 

I never lay on the starter more that 10 secs. If motor is timed and correct once the gas gets t the carb it should fire off.

So I was testing voltage last night. I was told battery was good.  When I first connected it, it cranked just fine after the 3rd attempt it was struggling. Voltage read 11.54. The voltage is transferring out to everything just fine. I get the same reading throughout the system. Battery voltage does climb back up if sitting and connected. So I’m guessing just a bad battery than?

[Draven521]

6 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

I just had a battery fail last week. It was only 8 months old and held 12 volts, but it lost a cell. They will still show 12 volts, but if you do a load test, you'll see the cranking amps drop to nothing.

I think this may be my problem