510 heater box part numbers

[jesusno2]

Anyone have parts numbers for the 510 heater valve and the 2 hoses especially the S bent passenger side hose?

[thisismatt]

http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun510/Datsun510Index/Electrical/Heater/tabid/562/Default.aspx

[slodat]

The heater valve is NLA. Last time I bought one, I got it from http://new-datsun-parts.com. I paid $85 + shipping.

 

The hoses were available from Nissan when I bought them earlier this year.

[jesusno2]

The heater valve is NLA. Last time I bought one, I got it from http://new-datsun-parts.com. I paid $85 + shipping.

 

The hoses were available from Nissan when I bought them earlier this year.

 

Dang nla on the valve that's gay!!! I got my soaking in vinegar in hopes it will move. I noticed their different numbers for 4 speed to auto my car was a auto wonder what the difference is?? Any other avenues for the heater valve truck ones work?

[thisismatt]

I'm surprised nobody has put together a new valve from a simple, accessable ball valve or a valve from a different vehicle. There's no reason that the valve needs to be where it is either, other than requiring some different cabling but it shouldn't be too difficult.

[jesusno2]

I was just thinking about that! Like a common ball valve and maybe use the arm from the stock heater valve

[dattojoe]

I decided to put in a flex-a-lite heater 2 years ago, Works great.

 

http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html/mojave-heater.html

[slodat]

Dang nla on the valve that's gay!!! I got my soaking in vinegar in hopes it will move. I noticed their different numbers for 4 speed to auto my car was a auto wonder what the difference is?? Any other avenues for the heater valve truck ones work?

 

As long as your valve looks like the one in the photo on the page I linked to above, it will work in your car. There is no easy alternative. It is worth the money in my opinion obviously because I bought one. It is in my car and will last for another 38 years. My advice is to buy the one above. It works and you can move on and save the fabricating for a more deserving project.

 

I'm surprised nobody has put together a new valve from a simple, accessable ball valve or a valve from a different vehicle. There's no reason that the valve needs to be where it is either, other than requiring some different cabling but it shouldn't be too difficult.

 

I tried like hell with my last 510 to sort something out. I settled on a solution that did not have the cable operator. I spent a lot of time working on the cable and once in the car it just didn't work out. It is possible, but not worth saving the $85 to me. I run L motors so the stock setup that Nissan designed is fine for my cars.

 

You are right though, someone could probably make a slick setup using an off the shelf Four Seasons (they are an auto heat & a/c aftermarket supplier) valve. The problem is, most datto guys are too cheap to pay $85 for a hard to find OEM part, they probably wouldn't be keen on buying another setup for $50 or so. Ya know.

 

I decided to put in a flex-a-lite heater 2 years ago, Works great.

 

http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html/mojave-heater.html

 

The aftermarket heaters are nice. But, like I said above if a guy won't spend $85 on a valve, probably won't spend a couple hundred on a whole heater unit.

 

P.S. I'm making general comments, not blasting jesusno2 or anyone else.

Edited December 15, 2008 by slodat

[rzrdisco]

I'm surprised nobody has put together a new valve from a simple, accessable ball valve or a valve from a different vehicle. There's no reason that the valve needs to be where it is either, other than requiring some different cabling but it shouldn't be too difficult.

 

when i did my heater i went to pull-a-part and got a ball valve from another car that i can't remember the model. luckily for me i got a straight valve and one that's bent 90deg which fits really nice where the stock one is.

[jesusno2]

I am a cheap ass ill admit it especially that part from nissan was prolly 30 bucks and now cause their nla their 85 plus shipping.I'm all for someone makin a buck in this world but that like x3 the cost (I'm guessing) I'm not in a huge hurry for my heater to work yet I got many other cans of worms to open still so if I don't come up with a replacement in the mean time then ill have to bite the bullet. Thanks for the heads up slodat. Ive learned a lot from reading you posts about 510 stuff and I'm glad when you awnser a question I have. And I'm use ill have plenty more soon as I'm getting ready to take on a ka single cam swap. Between heirfaus and beebani I'm sure we can figure it out.

[slodat]

I hear you on the price gouging bullshit. That's why I have decided I will only build one 510. I'm not interested in having them pass through my hands, each one getting the nice parts I just paid a premium for. I will quite probably find a different shell to transfer my parts to, but no "new" 510's. I can only drive one at a time.

 

Thanks for the praise :D I recommend more of that kind of thing. There are a lot of guys on here that will do what they can to help people out. There are also a lot of vagrants that are only passing through that seem to contribute very little and piss those contributors off in the process.

 

As far as your KA swap goes, I'm about to be home for a couple weeks. I'd be down to come down and help one day if you wanted to do a "get a lot done on my KA swap" day! It would blow your mind what 3 or 4 guys could knock out in a day. Plus if Chris was one of the people, would have a great time on the drive down..

[jesusno2]

Ha ha ha ha sucsess!!!!! Boiling vinegar and some pb blast a little pressure and I got it to free up the valve itself moved but the lever was rusted to itself. Now it works as good as new. Well maybe not new but its working and is closing and opening smoothly I'm stoked!

[slodat]

The real test is if it leaks :D

[Llittle_Llama]

i am doing the mojave heater in a few weeks.....well before next winter i assume :) there not a bad deal, plus you dont have to wait for the vehicle to heat up to get warm :)

[slodat]

i am doing the mojave heater in a few weeks.....well before next winter i assume :) there not a bad deal, plus you dont have to wait for the vehicle to heat up to get warm :)

 

Are you fucking kidding me? Could you be any more full of shit? You post in every single thread, usually without contributing any real content or relevant information. You claim to be a prospective buyer in every classified thread. It gets old. This is a direct quote from Flex-a-Lite's web site:

Uses your engines existing cooling system to heat air, not an electric or gas heater.

 

Seriously dude, at least read it before you chime in. It keeps the signal to noise ratio under control.

Edited December 15, 2008 by slodat

[Llittle_Llama]

wait what now? i have been looking at that for years. i thought it used a ceramic coil like a house heater and a blower for the heat. thats why i said no wait time for it. the ONLY reason i wanted it was to not have the coolant lines running into the cab. is there not another one that does not use the coolant lines?

 

edit: you know now that im looking all the aftermarket heaters that are worth a crap run the coolant lines. There is nothing wrong with my heater core and blower, i was just wanting a smaller unit that heated up faster and didnt use the coolant lines. I was wrong and apoligize, however, I have posted about this heater in my OWN thread, and thats why i mentioned it.

Edited December 15, 2008 by dwnshfter

[jesusno2]

The real test is if it leaks :D

 

Hummmm good question all I did was run water outta my sink into it to make sure it closed all the way. I wonder if I could prssure test it with a very low air pressure maybe 1 or 2 lbs?? Where do they leak the little plunger piece the arms hooked to?

[slodat]

Consider this.. Test it at the pressure of your radiator cap because that is the pressure it could potentially (and probably) see. The reason I went to an aftermarket valve that I couldn't remotely operate is I didn't want to fuck with pulling the heater box out after my attempt at repairing the stock valve failed in a leak.

 

As a matter of fact, that is my main case for rebuilding the heater box with all new parts, sans heater core - I don't want to be stranded somewhere because of a leak.

 

It's the cooling system. It would suck to overheat or worse because of it..

 

Just my .02.

 

i would defintely pressure test it jesusno2.

[Llittle_Llama]

idea, water hose and hose clamps.... that is what.... i cannot remember the pressure on a house line. (used to work for the water company) well anyway, thats an easy way to test it :)

[slodat]

There is nothing wrong with my heater core and blower, i was just wanting a smaller unit that heated up faster and didnt use the coolant lines.

 

In every Datsun I have owned (shit, like 5 times I've done the following):

 

• Pull heater core. Take it to radiator shop and have it boiled down and pressure tested. On every single one they have re-soldered the inlet and outlet. It costs about $40 at Mac's Radiator in Beaverton. They do excellent work.
  
• Pull the box apart and clean it.
  
• Re-assemble with foam rubber weatherstripping from the hardware store. This eliminates all air leaks and forces air through the core.
  
• If necessary, replace the heater control valve.
  
• Lube and adjust the cables and any other operators.
  
• Replace all hoses and thermostat.
  
• Clean out the cowl of all leaves and junk.
  

 

At that point, the heat works great. It will sweat you out the car/truck (510 and 620 in my case). The stock stuff works great. Boiling down the heater core is a must do to get the air to flow through it. They get clogged up with 30 years of shit from the cowl vent.

[Icehouse]

The 620's valve is still available and if you take it apart it will fit in the 510 body. 25 bucks and well worth it even though all that is needed is the guts. I've noticed a few different types of valves in the dimes. We used it on the 68 valve, I don't see how it wouldn't work for most the others.

 

I put a new NOS core and valve in my 68 and let me tell you that heater works very well. I can't wait until I have all new seals so cold air doesn't sneak in :D

[heirfaus]

I decided to put in a flex-a-lite heater 2 years ago, Works great.

 

http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html/mojave-heater.html

 

curious what your opinion is on this unit. How does it compare with the stock heater? My stock heater works pretty decent. Does it have a built in valve?

 

How did you mount it? any pics?

[jesusno2]

I hear you on the price gouging bullshit. That's why I have decided I will only build one 510. I'm not interested in having them pass through my hands, each one getting the nice parts I just paid a premium for. I will quite probably find a different shell to transfer my parts to, but no "new" 510's. I can only drive one at a time.

 

Thanks for the praise :D I recommend more of that kind of thing. There are a lot of guys on here that will do what they can to help people out. There are also a lot of vagrants that are only passing through that seem to contribute very little and piss those contributors off in the process.

 

As far as your KA swap goes, I'm about to be home for a couple weeks. I'd be down to come down and help one day if you wanted to do a "get a lot done on my KA swap" day! It would blow your mind what 3 or 4 guys could knock out in a day. Plus if Chris was one of the people, would have a great time on the drive down..

 

Dude that would be killer but my garage is small lol! And I'm fat chris might get smashed!! Lol but seriously I'd feed ya and beer ya if ya wanted to roll down. In fact the parts are coming from portland I'm trading a dude my l motor for his ka (forgot his screen name) and I'm buying the everything else from another guy from northwest nissans up in portland. I'm gonna be doing the swap right after christmas cause ill have some extra cash for my parts

[slodat]

The 620's valve is still available and if you take it apart it will fit in the 510 body. 25 bucks and well worth it even though all that is needed is the guts. I've noticed a few different types of valves in the dimes. We used it on the 68 valve, I don't see how it wouldn't work for most the others.

 

I put a new NOS core and valve in my 68 and let me tell you that heater works very well. I can't wait until I have all new seals so cold air doesn't sneak in :D

 

I just bought a new 620 heater valve from Riley at Lynchburg Nissan for $19.12. All you do is pull back the tabs on the 510 valve and insert the guts from the 620 valve.

 

curious what your opinion is on this unit. How does it compare with the stock heater? My stock heater works pretty decent. Does it have a built in valve?

 

How did you mount it? any pics?

Chris, I'll give you a ride in my car so you can see what a well functioning stock heater is like, if ya like :D

 

Dude that would be killer but my garage is small lol! And I'm fat chris might get smashed!! Lol but seriously I'd feed ya and beer ya if ya wanted to roll down. In fact the parts are coming from portland I'm trading a dude my l motor for his ka (forgot his screen name) and I'm buying the everything else from another guy from northwest nissans up in portland. I'm gonna be doing the swap right after christmas cause ill have some extra cash for my parts

 

Sounds like fun to me. Maybe you would be down to weld up my rear crossmember adjusters like you did Chris' down the line when I get them?

[jesusno2]

Totally man get the parts and bring em down I'll make sure I grab more of my tools from work this time lol. When chris was here I was bitchen cause I had forgot a bunch of my fab stuff at work so it took us a while and those freaking bushings that were damn near welded in those arms was not much fun either!