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Plymouth Fire Arrow


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On 8/23/2023 at 3:51 PM, Ooph! said:

Go to Tirerack.com and search by wheel size there are a few options that may work for you.

Going plus sized (+1 = 14" rim, etc) is bound to make additional selection of tires (& rims) available to you. Key factor is to keep the overall diameter as close as possible to stock as this will ensure your cars performance remains as intended. Research re-search and measure...

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The car has been lowered and wider than factory wheels are on it. I really like how the car sits and handles in it's current state. The factory tires were 165/80/13 now it has 205/50/13. The current tires are over 2" smaller diameter and a little over 1.5" wider than factory. I need to get a tire that is similar height to the current ones to keep the stance as is which is why I will likely get the Michelins that are 195/55/13. BFG makes a 205/60/13 that look like the tires that are currently on the car but the taller height could be a clearance issue. Will have to investigate further once I have the car in the shop this weekend.

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Got the car this weekend and rolled it into the shop. Going back to get the other car this coming Friday or Saturday. I also got all the parts as well. I need to clean up my shop some before pulling the motor. May be a month or two before I can dive into it but we'll see. May end up being a winter project but not sure I am willing to wait that long lol. I'll get pics of the parts as I go through them.

 

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3 minutes ago, iceman510 said:

What size are the panasports (width/offset)?

I'll have to take a look when I get home. I will also have to look closely at the front to see if there is clearance for the taller tires. I do agree though that they are much more available. It's also nice that I can get the same BFGs in that size. Normally I don't care for white letter tires but I think they look good on this car.

 

The car also came with a set of 14" wheels but I like the look of these much better.

Edited by powderfinger
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  • 2 weeks later...

Everyone loves picks so here are some more after unloading the truck. Got plenty of manuals, spare trim and rubber, two doors, three fenders, and passenger side back quarter that I didn't take a pic of, one set of spare aftermarket 14" wheels, along with a set of factory 14" wheels, three blocks two of which are in good condition the other would likely need to be re-sleeved to use, also got a knifed crank for the block on the left that I didn't take a pic of along with plenty of other spare interior and engine bits in the yellow bins. Oh yeah and the race car.

 

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  • 5 months later...

Time for an update. I wish I was one who could remember to take pictures of progress along the way but it's just something I always forget to do. I have been working on the Fire Arrow off and on over the past couple of months. Just a quick catch-up for anyone interested, I test drove the car. In the middle of the test drive it completely lost oil pressure and started ticking. I ended up buying the car along with another one and half cars and all the spare parts the guy owned.

 

I dropped the oil pan to take a look at the timing chain and the oil pump drive chain hoping to get lucky and I did! This engine has a smaller chain in front of the timing chain that drives the oil pump and balance shafts. If you look closely in the pic below you can see that chain is broken and hanging down.

 

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Now it was just a matter of fixing that and hoping the engine wasn't damaged from being driven ~0.5 miles with no oil pressure. The chain breaking also broke a tooth off of the gear that drives it but luckily I had a spare. I went ahead and deleted the balance shafts while I was in there since the drivers side balance shaft bearing is a point of failure on these engines. Glad I did this because that bearing was definitely not long for this world. Got all that back together, fired it up, and to my amazement the engine sounded healthy and was holding really good oil pressure. After swapping out rear diffs due to the one in it whining really bad (I'll try to remember to take some pics of that). The gear wear is very visible, looks like someone assembled it with improper gear mesh. The ring gear is wearing on the outer 1/8" of the gear.

 

Here is a pic of the car after it's maiden voyage of around 15 miles. I just drove the car 25 miles to work and so far so good. So far only issues are some rattling I need to find which is typical of a 70s Japanese car and I can't keep oil from escaping from around the filler cap on the valve cover and getting all over the valve cover and side of the engine.

 

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Good call on removing the balance shafts.  I have done that on all the 4G63 engines I have built.  

 

Is it a screw-on oil cap, or twist-in?  I have replaced just the gaskets on Mitsu screw-in caps before to fix the oil leak.

Edited by iceman510
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It is a twist in and doesn't fit very snug at all. Shouldn't be hard to fix. The car definitely has a "buzz" around 3000RPMs especially when suddenly off the throttle and decelerating. I am guessing this is a combo of new exhaust and mostly the deletion of the balance shafts, although I don't remember noticing it on the short 10 mile drive I did before putting the exhaust on the car. 

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There has to be a 'rubber' washer seal. Check it out. 

 

A co worker bought a new Arrow in '76? there a bouts. I read his brochure and that's the first time I heard of a balance shaft. I think it's for 2nd order harmonics, could be wrong, but it is extra spinning weight. Does it spin in the oposite direction to crank shaft?

 

I heard that the practical limit for a four cylinder displacement is about 2 1/2 liters. Maybe after this that harmonic is really noticeable?

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It actually had two balance shafts. One is ran off a chain that turns the same direction as the crank (drivers side). The oil pump is connected to that same chain and the oil pump has an internal gear that turns the second passenger side balance shaft (opposite direction) I found the pic below that shows the setup. Ignore the comments in blue it was just on the pic I found. I circled the two balance shafts in red. The gear that is missing teeth in this photo is the same gear that was missing a tooth or two on my engine.

 

A common problem with these engines is the upper right balance shaft bearing fails, puts extra stress on the small chain turning it, and since that chain is connected to the oil pump when it breaks bad things happen.

 

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When deleting the balance shafts you remove them, install a sleeve blocking the oil passage to the upper right shaft, install a small "dummy" shaft to fit in the location of the left balance shaft, then use a smaller chain routed like below.

 

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Edited by powderfinger
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