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Engine juddery, loss of horsepower.


None_zero

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19 hours ago, datzenmike said:

 

Yes, that's what I was commenting on. If the spindle is correct, and as the distributor can only go in in one position dictated by the spindle position, it follows that the distributor is also correct.

 

 

The trigger is not on #1 plug wire and is firing at 180 degrees and not on the timing scale.

 

Or should I ask where is it firing? on the timing scale.

It's not visible on the timing scale 

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14 hours ago, Thomas Perkins said:

Time to get another truck.

Don't say this you hurt me with this. There must be a way to set it correctly and fix this issue after all there was a time before these parts ever met and they functioned upon being joined...

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1 minute ago, None_zero said:

It's not visible on the timing scale 

I guess I'm gonna check over everything and start it back up and see what happens I don't know what else to do it has to work no options there so even if I have to take the gas out and run it on happy thoughts like it's Peter pan then that's what's gonna happen

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No that can't be it. Ok well anyways I've opened it back up. Reset tdc compression and I guess I'm about to learn a lot more about distributors then I ever thought I would. Just as a bonus question the two rubber half moons at either end of the rocker arm cover one is marked "19" and the other is marked "10" which one goes front and which back? I think I might have them swapped 

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1 hour ago, None_zero said:

Is it possible I reversed the distributor cap? I think it only goes on one way though 

 

It would not even start.

 

 

2 hours ago, None_zero said:

It's not visible on the timing scale 

 

Then as I said earlier, you have the timing light trigger on the wrong spark plug wire.

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And that wouldn't explain why turning the distributor didn't cause the engine to advance or retard I can't say it had absolutely no effect because when turned far enough the engine sound did change. But normally even a small movement produces a very noticeable effect and that was not the case yesterday 

Edited by None_zero
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Numbers on half moon is simply a mold cavity number. The mold probably has a dozen cavities or more so a dozen half moons are made per shot. This way if there is a problem when making them it's easy to tell which cavity is at fault.

 

They should be the same.

  • Haha 1
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58 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

You said ...

 

 

So either no spark on #1 wire.... or on wrong wire.

Well I'm getting spark cause the light is flashing. Right? Or signal at least and there's nothing wrong with the plug itself I just now tried to fix the issue by pulling the distributor up enough to disengage the spindle and rotate to its previous position (I remember because it was maxed out) then turn the rotor until it settles onto the spindle then bolt back down. When I first start it seems fine but when I turn the distributor to adjust it seems like both directions retard the engine and if I max it out (opposite from the maxed out it was before the mark shows up down to the left of the highest mark on the tab meaning the mark closest to the passenger side 

Edited by None_zero
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But with the engine at tdc compression shouldn't the rotor be in a specific position. Could I remove the fixing Plate and reinstall the distributor and then turn to where I'm within the adjustment range and mark it then take it out reinstall the fixing plate and reinstall? Or would that not work?

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That is how I took the picture I don't know why imgur turned it 90° I was about to say if you turn your phone counter clockwise 90° then it will be like you say you can see the belt on the pulley down there on the left but I realized you might be on a PC 

Edited by None_zero
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7 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

zero and mike

that looks pretty close if it is actuall on zero at the crank. But im not a NAPZ expert/ I think you could dial the rest in with the dist movemnt adv or retard.

 

dont napz z is like 5dbtdc?  Mike knows

Yes except that when I start it the mark isn't anywhere near the timing tab 

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