None_zero Posted March 19, 2023 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2023 So how bad is it and how can I fix it?I just remove the oil pump again and redo to can I rotate it where it's at since the distributor is off and wonder why mine is ope. Like that and the pic you showed seems to have a cap Quote Link to comment
None_zero Posted March 19, 2023 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2023 Anyone who has knowledge of this just jump right in there I've got to be driving this thing in the morning and it's getting cold as my ex wife's heart out tonight Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 19, 2023 Report Share Posted March 19, 2023 Has to be TDC precicely. Stand over the left fender with radiator to the left. Looks to be at least one tooth out. But as long as you can set the correct timing doesn't matter much. This above puts the distributor in the middle with lots of adjustment room. We covered this in February. Disconnect the vacuum advance if it's connected and check timing. Should be 50. If not enough room to adjust set the spindle again so it's like the picture above. IDLE must be around 700 or mechanical advance will affect the timing. Quote Link to comment
None_zero Posted March 19, 2023 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2023 By set the spindle you mean remove and redo or with it open like I have it can I stick a pair of needle nose down in there and just rotate it? Quote Link to comment
None_zero Posted March 19, 2023 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2023 1 minute ago, None_zero said: By set the spindle you mean remove and redo or with it open like I have it can I stick a pair of needle nose down in there and just rotate it? Cause I don't have gaskets to but back on the oil pump if I remove it 😞 Quote Link to comment
None_zero Posted March 19, 2023 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2023 Also I noticed when rotating the crank pully that the timing chain lags just slightly when I first move it does this mean it needs to be tensioned ? Quote Link to comment
None_zero Posted March 19, 2023 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2023 I guess for now I just need to put this back together because it sounds like what you're telling me means there's nothing I can do with this that's going to fix any issue I currently have which is mainly just it idles badly and seems not to be timed well (likely due to setting it with rpms too high. So what i need to do is do all the checks for the voltage and such to the tach and if they all check out replace the tach and reset with correct rpms. Unless it won't idle at the correct rpm and then the issue is likely in the carburetor or some vac leak I'm not finding Quote Link to comment
None_zero Posted March 19, 2023 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2023 Does that about sum it up? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 20, 2023 Report Share Posted March 20, 2023 55 minutes ago, None_zero said: By set the spindle you mean remove and redo or with it open like I have it can I stick a pair of needle nose down in there and just rotate it? Oil pump has to come out as the spindle only moves downward to disengage from the worm gear on the crank shaft. You can re-use the pump gasket if not torn. 53 minutes ago, None_zero said: Also I noticed when rotating the crank pully that the timing chain lags just slightly when I first move it does this mean it needs to be tensioned ? Engine turns clockwise so it pulls down tightly on the timing chain on the left side tensioning it when running. Any and all slack is naturally gathered on the right side where the chain tensioner is. When you turn the engine backwards you in effect move any slack to the right side. So yes the crank will move back and forth slightly without moving the cam sprocket. This is normal but never happens when running. Imagine the crank shaft turning clockwise and pulling down on the timing chain against the resistance of the valve springs against the cam. This is why the left side is straight 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 20, 2023 Report Share Posted March 20, 2023 52 minutes ago, None_zero said: I guess for now I just need to put this back together because it sounds like what you're telling me means there's nothing I can do with this that's going to fix any issue I currently have which is mainly just it idles badly and seems not to be timed well (likely due to setting it with rpms too high. So what i need to do is do all the checks for the voltage and such to the tach and if they all check out replace the tach and reset with correct rpms. Unless it won't idle at the correct rpm and then the issue is likely in the carburetor or some vac leak I'm not finding I would think so. At idle (750-800) the timing can be set. As the engine revs up the distributor ads centrifugal advance. Starting at just over 1,000 RPM it adds about 19 degrees of advance by 2,100 Quote Link to comment
None_zero Posted March 20, 2023 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2023 Ok then let me see if I understand. When the engine rpms are at 1k the centrifugal advance is adding 19° of advance and so my actual timing if I set it to 5° advance.... when it gets below 1k and the mechanical advance drops off now I'm 14° retarded and it won't idle but because of the spindle being installed incorrectly I can't advance it any more. So in essence yes I do have to redo the spindle to have enough adjustment to set the timing right Quote Link to comment
None_zero Posted March 20, 2023 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2023 Which really sucks 22 hours ago, datzenmike said: Oil pump has to come out as the spindle only moves downward to disengage from the worm gear on the crank shaft. You can re-use the pump gasket if not torn. Engine turns clockwise so it pulls down tightly on the timing chain on the left side tensioning it when running. Any and all slack is naturally gathered on the right side where the chain tensioner is. When you turn the engine backwards you in effect move any slack to the right side. So yes the crank will move back and forth slightly without moving the cam sprocket. This is normal but never happens when running. Imagine the crank shaft turning clockwise and pulling down on the timing chain against the resistance of the valve springs against the cam. This is why the left side is straight Ok yeah that makes sense I work on presses at work which are hydraulically driven that have chains and its the same. Just last week i was replacing gerotors and their associated gear reducers and its always important to reinstall the chain with the tension on the same side it was on (because it moves back and forth with the print and flood strokes) so ok that makes sense thanks Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 21, 2023 Report Share Posted March 21, 2023 At just over 1,000 the centrifugal advance begins to add timing. By 2,100 it's added about 190. So it's important to get the idle down to where it should be Quote Link to comment
None_zero Posted March 25, 2023 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2023 Ok i think I've got the spindle set right now and the 1 cylinder is at tdcon the compression stroke so now when i reinstall the distributor I want the screw to be at the front or what position should it be in to be right with everything else? The fsm isn't super clear in this as it just says mark it and put it back where it was but this assumes it was in the right position to start with. Maybe I am a dummy again but doesn't it have a specific place it should be to be within the range it needs to be so I can time it out ? Quote Link to comment
None_zero Posted March 25, 2023 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2023 Might be one tooth the other direction now... that thing is a bitch to get in there correctly Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 25, 2023 Report Share Posted March 25, 2023 That looks better. This needs more frequent oil and changes. I recommend Rotella T4 it's high in ZDDP and diesel oils are much more detergent. The detergent package of T4 should clean those internal engine surfaces. Quote Link to comment
None_zero Posted March 25, 2023 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2023 Ok I have been planning to get that done now that I'm getting less blow by and the plugs aren't fouling and blackening the oil in a couple days. I've changed it since I got that to stop but I just did a quick dump and fill before work one day didn't change the filter so when I get it put back together I'll go get the stuff and do it but you didn't answer my question about the distributor position Quote Link to comment
None_zero Posted March 25, 2023 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2023 Well I've clearly done something wrong. Started it up and it seemed fine let it warm up a bit and started adjusting it for fuel mix got a decent spot near where it was before and then checked the timing. No Mark showing so I loosen the dist and rotate and.... nothing. No change I am confused so I rotate farther and try both directions. Engine starts to sound sick So realize I've biffed it and cut it off. What did I do? I moved the distributor to the wrong location obviously right? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 25, 2023 Report Share Posted March 25, 2023 4 hours ago, None_zero said: .... but you didn't answer my question about the distributor position Yes I did... 5 hours ago, datzenmike said: That looks better. Quote Link to comment
None_zero Posted March 25, 2023 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2023 2 minutes ago, datzenmike said: Yes I did... This is about the oil pump spindle not the distributor Quote Link to comment
None_zero Posted March 25, 2023 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2023 (edited) I need to know what position the distributor itself is supposed to go. I went ahead because i thought well hell it's obvious it only goes one way. But something definitely aint right Edited March 25, 2023 by None_zero Quote Link to comment
None_zero Posted March 25, 2023 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2023 Normally even a small twist on the distributor produces a very definitive response and now it's like it's doing nothing? Quote Link to comment
None_zero Posted March 25, 2023 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2023 (edited) Any ideas what would cause the distributor to not advance the timing when its position within its adjustment range is changed Edited March 25, 2023 by None_zero Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 25, 2023 Report Share Posted March 25, 2023 2 hours ago, None_zero said: This is about the oil pump spindle not the distributor Yes, that's what I was commenting on. If the spindle is correct, and as the distributor can only go in in one position dictated by the spindle position, it follows that the distributor is also correct. 34 minutes ago, None_zero said: Any ideas what would cause the distributor to not advance the timing when its position within its adjustment range is changed The trigger is not on #1 plug wire and is firing at 180 degrees and not on the timing scale. Or should I ask where is it firing? on the timing scale. Quote Link to comment
Thomas Perkins Posted March 26, 2023 Report Share Posted March 26, 2023 Time to get another truck. Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.