HonDatsun NL320 Build thread

[NL320-1963]

Finally getting around to doing something with a NL 320 that I have had since 1991.  Bought the truck from Jim Wolf of Jim Wolf Technology back in 1991.  Truck was featured in Mini Truckin magazine in the late 80's if I remember correctly.  When I bought it from Jim, it had a L20-B Nissan engine and 5 speed from a Z car in it.  I used it as a semi-daily driver for about a year until it blew a head gasket.  I decided to swap in a KA24E Nissan engine and 4 sp auto with lock up torque converter.  Got the fab portion of the swap in fairly quickly, then life got in the way.  The truck had been sitting under a tarp in a friends backyard for 30ish years.  I have since moved to Arizona from California, but had a reason to visit and decided to drag the truck back to AZ and maybe get it going finally.

 

I showed pictures of the truck to a buddy that is into cars out here, and he convinced me that what I needed to do was swap a K24 Honda into it with a 6 speed trans from a 350Z behind it.  What could possibly go wrong.  Apparently the K24 Honda is swapped into all sorts of vehicles as it is capable of handling gobs of power on the stock internals.

 

 

 

 

 

Here is the only pic I have with the Nissan engine still installed.  It was a pretty tight fit, but it has been done by others, and I am sure I could have made it work.

 

 

 

 

 

Here is a torn down K24 Honda in the engine compartment to check for clearance issues.  First issue that popped up was the steering link between the steering box and idler arm was in the way of the oil pan, and there was no way I could modify the pan there as the oil pump was in the way.  I ended up taking out the link and am in the process of making one that can mount to the bottom of the box arm and idler arm using 5/8" heim joints and 5/8" rod.  The only other clearance issue seems to be the water pump and alternator which sit off to the drivers side of the K24 when mounted in a rear drive vehicle.  I think I have it figured out well enough that I am going to get a complete JDM engine and start in on the mods needed to clear the steering box.

 

 

 

 

 

Looks like there will be plenty of room for a good size radiator and single electric fan.

 

 

 

 

There even appears to be room for a turbo since the battery is being relocated outside the engine compartment.

 

 

 

 

Frame and transmission hump are going to need generous massaging to get this beast in there, but at $2000 for a brand new 6 speed, I could not pass up using the latest edition of the 350 Z trans.

 

That is all for now until the JDM K24 is sourced and I get an adapter to mate the pieces together.

[thisismatt]

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Wow! Go big or go home!!!

 

Instead of using heims on the center link, why not re-taper the outer tie rods to be able to install the original center link from the bottom up? Heim quality is generally not very good when compared to standard tie rod ends. Even the best heims quickly wear to have a tiny amount of play in them, which makes them clunk and click. There are heim boots, but they aren't great at keeping anything out.

[NL320-1963]

I thought about using the link, but how do you re-taper the holes?  Weld them?

[wayno]

3 hours ago, NL320-1963 said:

I thought about using the link, but how do you re-taper the holes?  Weld them?

I re-tapered my pitman arm once on a custom power steering setup on a 521, they used a tapering drill bit with the proper angle and only tapered it half way, then it could be used either way, I had no issues with it over the 15+ years used that way.

[mklotz70]

17 hours ago, NL320-1963 said:

I thought about using the link, but how do you re-taper the holes?  Weld them?

You can use a tapered ream, but a tapered drill bit may be a lot cheaper.  I've bought the ream before....not the drill bit.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Tapered-Ball-Joint-Reamer-7-Degree,2918.html

 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

@mklotz70- Does the Datsun use a 7 degree taper?

 

Yes, as Wayno said, ream it half way. It will look odd, but it will hold, as long as the nut never comes loose. Just don't over ream it. If you do, you may as well throw it away. The basic rule is that the thread should stick out the end of the reamed metal far enough to get the split pin in the hole. Any further is just extra, but too far and you could have all kinds o problems.

[NL320-1963]

3 hours ago, mklotz70 said:

You can use a tapered ream, but a tapered drill bit may be a lot cheaper.  I've bought the ream before....not the drill bit.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Tapered-Ball-Joint-Reamer-7-Degree,2918.html

 

I bought a tapered drill that has 5/8" diameter of straight drill after the taper to bore the hole to 5/8"  It has not arrived.  I will see if the taper is correct when it gets delivered.

[mklotz70]

3 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

@mklotz70- Does the Datsun use a 7 degree taper?

 

Technically, I think it's 7.25, but they just call it 7.  Ford typically uses the same.  I'm also pretty sure the tie rods and ball joints all use the same taper, just different diameters. 

 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

I have a couple different reamers. Ford/Chevy and Toyota taper. Can't remember which is which. That's why I ask.