Oil additives

[Veraciousreasoning]

Hey all,

 

So my truck has roughly 173,000 miles and I was looking into possibly cleaning out all the carbon deposits in my engine as I dont know the service history of my truck. Curious if anyone has any companies they use or perhaps explain why I shouldn't do it? Also, does anyone know how to get rid of the lifter tick? 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

An old trick for getting rid of engine gunk, and loosening up stuck rings, sticky oil pump relief valves and also sticky valvetrain is to add a quart of ATF to the engine oil and run it for a thousand miles or so. The high detergent content in ATF is like soap for dirty engine internals. I've used this trick many times and mostly had success. Except for that one time...

 

If the gunk buildup is in solid form, it can break off and float around in your crankcase, and possibly clog up a vital passage somewhere. I've had this happen to me and it burned the engine down. In this case, it would have been best to run the ATF for a day or two and then drop the oil pan and get rid of the clumps of solid gunk. But how do you know if the gunk is solid or not? One way to tell is to pull the valve cover and have a peek. If there's solid gunk in the valvetrain, then there's likely solid gunk in the crankcase too.

[datzenmike]

You should be running a diesel oil which has a higher detergent and ZDDP level in your Datsun anyway. When I switched th Rotella T4 the next 3-4 oil changes saw the new oil darken within a week of driving. This was the detergent dissolving anything off the insides of the engine. Once clean it stays much cleaner now. Yes I have run ATF in my wife's 318 with good cleaning results.

 

Combustion chamber carbon build up should self clean as you drive.... assuming you drive far enough. Short drives mean the choke is on more than it's off and that will carbon things up. Take for a hard high speed drive with lots of full throttle moments of acceleration. This is also called an Italian Tune-up.

 

Another is to get the engine really hot and dribble water down the carburetor. Ever seen how clean a combustion chamber and piston are on an engine that has blown a head gasket and coolant was getting in there? The water absorbs heat and the suddenly contracting carbon cracks and dislodges and goes out the exhaust. The engine will cool off a lot so let it warm up in between. The engine will also loose efficiency as it cools and will try to stall so keep it revved up. Why not run the windshield washer hose into the air filter and take for a highway drive and while at full throttle hit the wash button. Washer fluid is just water and ethanol. I do not ever recommend Seafoam.

 

 

 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

We used to call that an engine douche. But we used a garden hose and lots of water. Obviously, not enough to hydraulic the motor, but enough to bog it down while revving it up.

[thisismatt]

 

 

Set playback speed to 1.5x 😁

[datzenmike]

Sounds like chipmunk a 2X

[Veraciousreasoning]

5 hours ago, datzenmike said:

You should be running a diesel oil which has a higher detergent and ZDDP level in your Datsun anyway. When I switched th Rotella T4 the next 3-4 oil changes saw the new oil darken within a week of driving. This was the detergent dissolving anything off the insides of the engine. Once clean it stays much cleaner now. Yes I have run ATF in my wife's 318 with good cleaning results.

 

Combustion chamber carbon build up should self clean as you drive.... assuming you drive far enough. Short drives mean the choke is on more than it's off and that will carbon things up. Take for a hard high speed drive with lots of full throttle moments of acceleration. This is also called an Italian Tune-up.

 

Another is to get the engine really hot and dribble water down the carburetor. Ever seen how clean a combustion chamber and piston are on an engine that has blown a head gasket and coolant was getting in there? The water absorbs heat and the suddenly contracting carbon cracks and dislodges and goes out the exhaust. The engine will cool off a lot so let it warm up in between. The engine will also loose efficiency as it cools and will try to stall so keep it revved up. Why not run the windshield washer hose into the air filter and take for a highway drive and while at full throttle hit the wash button. Washer fluid is just water and ethanol. I do not ever recommend Seafoam.

 

 

 

 

My truck barely gets up to highway speeds within a reasonable time frame. I am setting my valves tomorrow but the problem is that my service manual says I need a special tool to set the valves. 

[Veraciousreasoning]

Also anyone got tricks to get rid of lifter tick?

[thisismatt]

Yeah, adjust your valves to spec

[Veraciousreasoning]

7 minutes ago, thisismatt said:

Yeah, adjust your valves to spec

Yeah, I am looking for the adapter. 1980 apparently, from the Haynes manual and my service manual, requires I get a special adapter. it states;

"Correct tightening of the rocker arm pivot locknut on 1980 models require a special adapter (available through dealer parts departments and import auto parts stores)"

 

I am looking up the adapter now but can't seem to find it. I might run to Orileys real quick and see what they have. Doubt they will have it but one can hope. 

 

 

[datzenmike]

All you need are two box end wrenches, one for the lock nut, and one for the pivot adjustment, and a 0.012" feeler gauge. There is nothing mystical about adjusting an L series valve lash. Off hand I don't remember the wrench sizes but they will be metric.

[Veraciousreasoning]

4 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

All you need are two box end wrenches, one for the lock nut, and one for the pivot adjustment, and a 0.012" feeler gauge. There is nothing mystical about adjusting an L series valve lash. Off hand I don't remember the wrench sizes but they will be metric.

 

Then why is it telling me I need an adapter? Also the Service manual says " .010 Intake an .012 exhaust"

[datzenmike]

That's right 0.010" and 0.012". I had originally replied for a Z series engine and changed it but forgot to change the clearance numbers.

 

My dad used to say: "There's more than one way to skin a cat" Well that applies to setting valve clearances too. The special adapter tool is just a glorified open end wrench that a dealership can afford to buy from Nissan and it will get a lot of use and may save time. For us home mechanics we can get by with what we got.

[Veraciousreasoning]

12 hours ago, datzenmike said:

That's right 0.010" and 0.012". I had originally replied for a Z series engine and changed it but forgot to change the clearance numbers.

 

My dad used to say: "There's more than one way to skin a cat" Well that applies to setting valve clearances too. The special adapter tool is just a glorified open end wrench that a dealership can afford to buy from Nissan and it will get a lot of use and may save time. For us home mechanics we can get by with what we got.

 

Funny you say that my dad would say something very similar. Yeah, after a couple hours of searching online I found it and I was like what the fuck? I plan on doing all my truck stuff today/tomorrow. Also found some seats from a 1995 Izuzu Rodeo from the junkyard that were in really great condition. I tried to install them but seems I am going to have to do some modification to my truck. 

[datzenmike]

Well here's a tip if you ever think of removing your head for work on it. The over head cam is chain driven and has a tensioner. Before undoing it make sure you find out how to secure it so it doesn't fall out of place till it is put back together. It's impossible to put back in without taking the front off the engine and will add 4-6 hours of unnecessary work. We've had over a dozen member who joined because this happened to them and they needed to find out what happened and how to fix it. Just file this for later.

[Logical1]

On 2/2/2022 at 11:09 AM, datzenmike said:

This is also called an Italian Tune-up.

Racist, take this kind of talk over to Destruction of America! 🤣

[datzenmike]

Pretty sure you can say Italian. Back in the '30s Italian was shortened to I tie. But not a slur like the W word. Like calling British a Brit.

[Logical1]

I am 3'rd generation full blood Italian and I take no offense to any slur! However I do enjoy the hilarity of them! Guinea is my favorite, I am talking about the pets racist! 🤣

[Veraciousreasoning]

On 2/2/2022 at 10:35 AM, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

An old trick for getting rid of engine gunk, and loosening up stuck rings, sticky oil pump relief valves and also sticky valvetrain is to add a quart of ATF to the engine oil and run it for a thousand miles or so. The high detergent content in ATF is like soap for dirty engine internals. I've used this trick many times and mostly had success. Except for that one time...

 

If the gunk buildup is in solid form, it can break off and float around in your crankcase, and possibly clog up a vital passage somewhere. I've had this happen to me and it burned the engine down. In this case, it would have been best to run the ATF for a day or two and then drop the oil pan and get rid of the clumps of solid gunk. But how do you know if the gunk is solid or not? One way to tell is to pull the valve cover and have a peek. If there's solid gunk in the valvetrain, then there's likely solid gunk in the crankcase too.

 

I bought some ATF fluid from the local store. I also bought a new oil pan gasket. I am going to let it idle for about 15 minutes with the ATF in it, drain the oil, take the pan out and clean the gunk out of it, and put it all back together. I bought 10w-30 this time but Datzenmike said to put diesel oil in it so maybe next go I will do that.  

[datzenmike]

You'll want to drive it around for a week or two to splash it over everything. Doesn't work that fast. And don't over fill, take a quart out if putting a quart in. Or wait till it's down a quart and top it up just before the next oil change. Also change the oil while the engine is hot.

[Veraciousreasoning]

1 hour ago, datzenmike said:

You'll want to drive it around for a week or two to splash it over everything. Doesn't work that fast. And don't over fill, take a quart out if putting a quart in. Or wait till it's down a quart and top it up just before the next oil change. Also change the oil while the engine is hot.

I am just concerned cause it is my daily driver and I'd hate to have some serious carbon build up. I planned on tackling this problem multiple ways. 

 

1. run the ATF for 15-30 minutes idling. Drain oil, change gasket, scrap any carbon I find out of it. Then change the oil

2. after the oil change, do that little water trick you showed me to get remaining carbon out

3. Next oil change use the diesel oil you recommended.

 

 

[datzenmike]

What ever you decide, run if for a week or two. Takes time to dissolve all the gum and caked on deposits anywhere on the block and head that oil naturally splashes on when being driven. Idling isn't fast enough, just add and drive around normally. Ordinary engine oil does have a detergent package in it but the problem is people don't change the oil often enough so it overloads with crap and can't hold it all. It ends up painted all over the block surfaces. It'll take a while. Myself, I wouldn't bother taking the pan off as it will be quite clean because it's submerged in oil and it all flushes out when changed. It's the other parts of the block that get hot and bake the deposits on.

 

Always change the filter. Never, ever use a fram filter. WIX or NAPA Gold are good. Expect to pay about $8 US for a good filter, no $2.99 WallMart ones. Fill the filter half full of oil before spinning on. Check that the rubber O ring didn't stick to the block from the old filter before screwing the new one on, and wet the new O ring with oil.

 

Oh yeah... make sure you put the drain plug back on before adding the new oil.

[Veraciousreasoning]

8 hours ago, datzenmike said:

What ever you decide, run if for a week or two. Takes time to dissolve all the gum and caked on deposits anywhere on the block and head that oil naturally splashes on when being driven. Idling isn't fast enough, just add and drive around normally. Ordinary engine oil does have a detergent package in it but the problem is people don't change the oil often enough so it overloads with crap and can't hold it all. It ends up painted all over the block surfaces. It'll take a while. Myself, I wouldn't bother taking the pan off as it will be quite clean because it's submerged in oil and it all flushes out when changed. It's the other parts of the block that get hot and bake the deposits on.

 

Always change the filter. Never, ever use a fram filter. WIX or NAPA Gold are good. Expect to pay about $8 US for a good filter, no $2.99 WallMart ones. Fill the filter half full of oil before spinning on. Check that the rubber O ring didn't stick to the block from the old filter before screwing the new one on, and wet the new O ring with oil.

 

Oh yeah... make sure you put the drain plug back on before adding the new oil.

 

sounds good