DIY 1985 Posted October 7, 2021 Report Share Posted October 7, 2021 (edited) Has anyone done this? There is a bit of a shape issue - making a rectangle fit into a circle. I bough one of those stock air cleaner to Weber carb adapters for my Toyota 2F, but it was miles off from actually fitting, much less directing air in a performance kind of way. The Weber air cleaner assembly is cheese. It is a bit small, the accompanying air filter is cheap. One got holes it it, probably being sand blasted from road salting that leaves a red sandy substance on the oil sweat around the front of the valve cover (and it is in a direct line from the engine fan), the other is brand new, but I stored it assembled, and it kinda got distorted from the pressure from one of the six clips that holds the top to the bottom. My real motivation is to add the hot air intake, this fall. The other rig got it (adapted to a header) and it is making a huge difference for those first few minutes of driving. Should I consider the OE carb, or its clones? They'd do it, and I wouldn't have to fabricate something that wasn't engineered for efficient air delivery? Edited October 7, 2021 by DIY 1985 clarity Quote Link to comment
powderfinger Posted October 7, 2021 Report Share Posted October 7, 2021 This is what's on my Weber. I have never looked this up to see where it came from or what it cost. It was already on the truck when I bought it. 1 Quote Link to comment
DIY 1985 Posted October 7, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2021 Yes, the 'snorkel kit,' but, for cold air intake. Kinda expensive, and I would have to fit an air filter somewhere between the kit and the exhaust manifold. Also, the valve cover, which reminds me, I have two of those tiny filters, and they both dry rotted and one has holes. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 7, 2021 Report Share Posted October 7, 2021 The stock air filter housing (besides having a filter 3 or 4 times the Weber) provides cold air. At less that full throttle the ATC (air temp control) mixes exhaust manifold heated air with 'cold' ambient air from in front of the radiator. This mix is stabilized at about 100F so that at all times of the year the engine runs like it's the middle of the summer. Warmed air will never freeze and cause carburetor icing in the winter. The servo in the snorkel is intake vacuum operated and when floored this vacuum drops and the warm air is shut off allowing only colder air in. You can't beat this system with anything after market. Quote Link to comment
DIY 1985 Posted October 7, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2021 (edited) I'm thinking about just having a winter/summer situation, like it is on the Toyota F in '74, and how I have mine setup. Just to take the edge off of winter. Right now, I can drive around, and the air cleaner isn't too hot to touch, but it is well above body temp. Almost no need for choke after start-up. I think that my initial concern, about melting an air filter in September, was guided by my lack of comprehension of just how much air is pumped thru the system. Now I have headers, but Toyota originally bolted the exhaust manifold to the intake manifold on the same side of the head, exhaust gas would be directed, with a temp controlled flap, to the underside of the intake. And btw, it used what Datsun refers to as ATC. Sorry, I'm got a little sidetracked here, but, also, by going back to Hitachi, I can install that heated carb insulator, yet an other way of getting cold weather performance. I'm afraid that I'm going to be a dork, sporting a 9x13x3-inch steel cake pan covering my existing Weber air cleaner this winter. Edited October 7, 2021 by DIY 1985 added some info Quote Link to comment
DIY 1985 Posted October 7, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2021 (edited) carb? Edited October 7, 2021 by DIY 1985 Quote Link to comment
weldingrod Posted October 7, 2021 Report Share Posted October 7, 2021 5 hours ago, DIY 1985 said: Yes, the 'snorkel kit,' but, for cold air intake. Kinda expensive, and I would have to fit an air filter somewhere between the kit and the exhaust manifold. Also, the valve cover, which reminds me, I have two of those tiny filters, and they both dry rotted and one has holes. 6 hours ago, DIY 1985 said: Has anyone done this? There is a bit of a shape issue - making a rectangle fit into a circle. I bough one of those stock air cleaner to Weber carb adapters for my Toyota 2F, but it was miles off from actually fitting, much less directing air in a performance kind of way. The Weber air cleaner assembly is cheese. It is a bit small, the accompanying air filter is cheap. One got holes it it, probably being sand blasted from road salting that leaves a red sandy substance on the oil sweat around the front of the valve cover (and it is in a direct line from the engine fan), the other is brand new, but I stored it assembled, and it kinda got distorted from the pressure from one of the six clips that holds the top to the bottom. My real motivation is to add the hot air intake, this fall. The other rig got it (adapted to a header) and it is making a huge difference for those first few minutes of driving. Should I consider the OE carb, or its clones? They'd do it, and I wouldn't have to fabricate something that wasn't engineered for efficient air delivery? Quote Link to comment
weldingrod Posted October 7, 2021 Report Share Posted October 7, 2021 Do you have a spare Nissan air filter housing? Adapt that to the Weber. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 7, 2021 Report Share Posted October 7, 2021 There were several who cut a Weber outline on a flat piece of steel and welded it to the cut out bottom of a stock air filter housing. All the emissions equipment including ATC is retained. Makes for a much better runner in colder weather. 1 Quote Link to comment
weldingrod Posted October 7, 2021 Report Share Posted October 7, 2021 Kinda my thought. Of course, I am a welder so have the proper tools/training for solving those kinds of problems. I am not so hot at wiring problems though, when welders use electricity they produce heat, smoke and flames- apparently not a good thing when dealing with wiring. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 8, 2021 Report Share Posted October 8, 2021 No wiring on the 720 air filter housing.... weld away. Quote Link to comment
DIY 1985 Posted October 8, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2021 I was just digging thru the parts stash. I wanted to pull the original carb so I knew how tall it sits. For the sake of it, I tested the idle cut solenoid - no good. When I started this project, the carb was a mess with RTV everywhere, a bunch of mud, and hacked wiring. Well, now I know how I got on this trail. I found the Weber to Toyota 2F adapter. It turns out that it allows the Datsun air cleaner assembly to basically work together with the Weber - might need a squishy gasket. The overall height difference is something that I'll try next, it is close. I guess that it shouldn't be too hard to get a used air cleaner assembly, if I modify my OE one. However, the OE air cleaner has a nice shape directing the filtered air to the air horn of the carb. Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted October 8, 2021 Report Share Posted October 8, 2021 Can you weld? I have modified a few stock air cleaners to fit DGV carbs. Here's one of them. 1 Quote Link to comment
weldingrod Posted October 8, 2021 Report Share Posted October 8, 2021 Did you fab the carb plate first then weld it into the housing? Quote Link to comment
DIY 1985 Posted October 8, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2021 2 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said: Can you weld? I have modified a few stock air cleaners to fit DGV carbs. Here's one of them. Yes, I can weld just fine, it is the cutting and fitting that poses the challenge. If it fits tight, it will be easier to control the heat of the bead. On an '85, the carb and the airfilter don't share parallel planes, so, this is going to be tricky / jig dependent. It is like making a flat plate fit into the hull of a boat. Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted October 9, 2021 Report Share Posted October 9, 2021 21 hours ago, weldingrod said: Did you fab the carb plate first then weld it into the housing? Yes. Cut out the hole, bent it up at the edges and then started chiseling away at the air cleaner until it fit. It is TIG welded with silicon bronze, which is like brazing, and super easy. 18 hours ago, DIY 1985 said: Yes, I can weld just fine, it is the cutting and fitting that poses the challenge. If it fits tight, it will be easier to control the heat of the bead. On an '85, the carb and the airfilter don't share parallel planes, so, this is going to be tricky / jig dependent. It is like making a flat plate fit into the hull of a boat. Jigs? No way. This is what I can down-and-dirty fabrication. There's no precision involved. It just has to fit. Get it close, tack it up, bring it to the truck and see if it fits. If it doesn't, then make some tweaks and tack it again. Repeat until done. Season to taste... 2 Quote Link to comment
DIY 1985 Posted October 9, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2021 What about the replacement gasket under the air filter? Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted October 9, 2021 Report Share Posted October 9, 2021 Between the carb and air cleaner housing? Use one for a DGV. They are available. 1 Quote Link to comment
DIY 1985 Posted October 9, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2021 @Stoffregen MotorsportsThe gasket between the air filter element, and the air filter housing - it is too close to the welding to not be toasted, and I don't think that it will be removed in one piece. Also, I'm going to hijack my own thread here, pardon me, but anyone know of electrolysis or chem bath for carb rebuild? I want to remove mineral oxide deposits in the internal passages of the old Hitachi, and a Rochester, and, an couple of Aisan. I believe that carb dip will only do organics, like gas varnish, am I wrong? My Aisan would have a lean symptom, I swapped out for an new Aisan, but with smaller jets that came with it, no lean symptom, better fuel economy, more power. There was rust and oxidized aluminum in the bowl, so it would be best to assume that it made its way past the jets. But, I would love to run the original carb in both of my trucks, and I don't think that Marvel Mystery Oil is going to help clean my jets. My Hitachi carb seems to be without the O2sensor enrichment solenoid-(?), so, aside from the five or so vac connections, it would probably be a candidate for a simple desmogged setup? I just ordered one of the Maxpeedingrods-brand clone carbs for the sake of science, and maybe a carb organ donor. Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted October 10, 2021 Report Share Posted October 10, 2021 Obviously you have to remove it. You use a heat gun to unglue it and then re-glue it once you're done. 1 Quote Link to comment
DIY 1985 Posted October 15, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2021 Anyone remember where the return spring goes on a stock carb set-up? Quote Link to comment
weldingrod Posted October 15, 2021 Report Share Posted October 15, 2021 Looking for a good price in a 32/36 Weber. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 15, 2021 Report Share Posted October 15, 2021 Try starting your own post say in ... https://ratsun.net/forum/53-720/ ... where all the answers are yours. This is DIY1985's post on air filters. Best to buy a hew Weber from a reputable dealer rather than a Chinese rip off or someone else's piece of junk. 1 Quote Link to comment
DIY 1985 Posted October 15, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2021 Continuing on with seeing what I can do with the factory air cleaner before I address it with a HF Diablo cut-off wheel... I added a window to the maxpeedingrods-brand carb Humm, why is my image upside down? I broke (or shipping softened) the wire to the electric choke, I failed in its repair. So, I'm looking for an electric choke; I borrowed one from my electric Weber for now, but, it's not the same. Also, I managed to loosen the fuel inlet. The brass fitting for the needle valve hasn't enough clearance to fit a 19mm wrench or socket, so, I used the little screw at the top to secure it to a crush washer, I hope it is tight enough. Tons of details on a carb swap, starting with setting up a clean install of a relay switch to provide juice to a non-manual choked, idle cut solenoided carb. Quote Link to comment
weldingrod Posted October 16, 2021 Report Share Posted October 16, 2021 10 hours ago, datzenmike said: Try starting your own post say in ... https://ratsun.net/forum/53-720/ ... where all the answers are yours. This is DIY1985's post on air filters. Best to buy a hew Weber from a reputable dealer rather than a Chinese rip off or someone else's piece of junk. Where is a good place to buy one? Even with my discount at bakers it runs over 700 and still need the adapter plate. Quote Link to comment
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