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15 minutes ago, Aaron Datsun said:

 

That is a good idea, the other option would be to add-in in Cura post processing to change Z resolution at that height then back to much higher after?

 

Yeah, I thought about something like that afterwards. At the end of the day laziness won out and I ended up just letting it run overnight. I don't remember if you had a clear plastic face plate or not from the video. I might have to measure the other one and cut it on the laser cutter.

 

I'm thinking I might need to design one of these for the 1200, they use an inductive tach which is not compatible with my KA swap. But their design is much simpler (basically just a squat round cylinder).

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26 minutes ago, Dguy210 said:

Yeah, I thought about something like that afterwards. At the end of the day laziness won out and I ended up just letting it run overnight. I don't remember if you had a clear plastic face plate or not from the video. I might have to measure the other one and cut it on the laser cutter.

 

I'm thinking I might need to design one of these for the 1200, they use an inductive tach which is not compatible with my KA swap. But their design is much simpler (basically just a squat round cylinder).

On this tach there is no provision for a glass I can probably add one just don't know exactly how. That being said I did just start making the acrylic covers for the stock gauges this weekend.

 

 241508015_10109605719637812_8727780156598109711_n.jpg.c86d54b8d807de81c961ec12c29a1c42.jpg241413052_10109606163947412_6767343864425074469_n.thumb.jpg.c7897d0f5d1a2f1c85cc86ef2f700baf.jpg

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9 hours ago, Dguy210 said:

Yeah, I thought about something like that afterwards. At the end of the day laziness won out and I ended up just letting it run overnight. I don't remember if you had a clear plastic face plate or not from the video. I might have to measure the other one and cut it on the laser cutter.

 

I'm thinking I might need to design one of these for the 1200, they use an inductive tach which is not compatible with my KA swap. But their design is much simpler (basically just a squat round cylinder).

Also I am super stoked to see that someone else printed something I made. It is a cool feeling.

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Been still chugging away on 510 small projects now that the large projects are done. Check out the latest 3d model. It is a printable center console, looking at the print time and the amount of chopping I had to do, I would suggest building the thing out of something else, maybe light MDF then covering with vinyl? Who knows, what I know if I can "build" this on the printer while I am at work making money...

1233422857_CenterConsole.thumb.PNG.983ff43b2ac04ca6dd0e38868d910984.PNG

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On 9/13/2021 at 12:12 AM, Aaron Datsun said:

Been still chugging away on 510 small projects now that the large projects are done. Check out the latest 3d model. It is a printable center console, looking at the print time and the amount of chopping I had to do, I would suggest building the thing out of something else, maybe light MDF then covering with vinyl? Who knows, what I know if I can "build" this on the printer while I am at work making money...

1233422857_CenterConsole.thumb.PNG.983ff43b2ac04ca6dd0e38868d910984.PNG

 

Based on that design I would just 3D print the "corner" pieces and use some kind of other flat material for the well flat bits, plywood, acrylic etc.. 

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2 hours ago, Dguy210 said:

 

Based on that design I would just 3D print the "corner" pieces and use some kind of other flat material for the well flat bits, plywood, acrylic etc.. 

 

That is what I was thinking about doing I have been toying with the idea of exporting the sides as .DXF files and using a laser to cut out some wood. I haven't decided whether it makes sense to cover it for Vinyl or just paint it. I was leaning towards vinyl. Realistically I realized I was trying to get too much done considering I have the Williams car show in a few weeks, and I want to just ensure the car is drivable. I really like the idea of just making the corner/side pieces thank you for that advice.

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I have considered it for my down draft Weber's onto vg33. More as a mock, I have got onto a foundry that specialises in one off's and small runs. I am looking at a 3d scanner in the future as I think that would be the easiest way. 

I'm not sure what filament you are considering, I use mainly petg. I don't thing it would hold up long term. I've seen where people bake the print after to further strengthen it. But on side drafts with an exhaust manifold close I don't like its chances. 

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23 minutes ago, Str8jacket said:

I have considered it for my down draft Weber's onto vg33. More as a mock, I have got onto a foundry that specialises in one off's and small runs. I am looking at a 3d scanner in the future as I think that would be the easiest way. 

I'm not sure what filament you are considering, I use mainly petg. I don't thing it would hold up long term. I've seen where people bake the print after to further strengthen it. But on side drafts with an exhaust manifold close I don't like its chances. 

That is where I was leaning with wide drafts and the exhaust right there as well.

 

Also I was leaning towards a nylon carbon filament supposedly good up to about 200* F

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