Lockleaf Posted October 5, 2020 Report Share Posted October 5, 2020 Regarding metal replacement, I was recently pointed toward this guy, who I have now become a huge fan of. He uses only the most basic tools and techniques that work well for a large majority of situations. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_u31t13QO6A 2 Quote Link to comment
None_zero Posted October 6, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2020 Do any of these help? 1 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted October 6, 2020 Report Share Posted October 6, 2020 Yours is a Z20? That could account for differences. More research on Z20 info is recomended. i've never had a z20, so I can't really offer any good advice regarding that motors particulars. Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted October 6, 2020 Report Share Posted October 6, 2020 arrow is supposed to be pointing toward that other sensor/sending unit in the block. Unsure of it's purpose but more Z20 info could help. 1 Quote Link to comment
None_zero Posted October 6, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2020 Hot fucking damn! Boys we have headlights that go bright and dim and parking lights! We have windshield wipers that wipe fast and slow and we've got a blower motor that blows blows hard and blows your damn socks off! Whoohoo!! Only down side for today's progress is wipers dont finish their cycle when you cut them off they just stop wherever they are. It is a good damn day today! 1 Quote Link to comment
None_zero Posted October 6, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2020 Lockleaf do you mean the rubber around those wires on the unidentified thingamajig under the carb?. Btw I hooked up the oil pressure sensor to the yellow/green wire but I don't know if it's doing anything how do I test it? 1 Quote Link to comment
None_zero Posted October 6, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2020 Based on this diagram that Charlie uploaded to the "what's this..." thread it looks like that open port could be the detonation sensor? Does that seem right to you? If so how do I and what do I connect it to? 1 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted October 6, 2020 Report Share Posted October 6, 2020 Wiper "parking" is a specific ground, so you may just not be getting that ground connection when switch is off. Yes that looks like could be det sensor, good call. Unplug the oil pressure sensor, start the truck, does the oil light come on for a second? Now plug it in and see if it comes on. Also that is simply a ground switch, so if you ground the yellow green wire your oil light should come on. And with the engine off you should have measurable resistance between where the wire connects to the sensor and the engine block. With engine running there should be no resistance at all between those two points. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 6, 2020 Report Share Posted October 6, 2020 That's the oil low pressure switch just right of the oil filter. It's in the pressure line to the oil filter which is not only not correct but if the filter were to clog it wouldn't warn you of low pressure. It's correct location is that other fitting on the left of the filter that is probably for an oil cooler??? or maybe oil feed for a turbo? Whatever it's for it's a bad idea. The sensor should be put on a TEE fitting if doing this. I would buy a new oil pressure warning switch and put it in the proper location and wire it up. Just leave the other one to fill the hole. DETONATION SENSOR Would only be on the Z20 engine on the Mileage Option 720. It should be higher up on the block just under the head and would NEVER be on the oil line up to the head where the warning light sensor switch should be. Look between the two pair of exhaust pipes exiting the head. The engine ID is there just below the head on top edge of block... The fitting top left (with two wires) looks like a temperature switch for turning an electric fan on for the radiator. Again not stock. The temperature gauge sender is just below the thermostat to read the hot water coming out of the engine. This is on the intake which will read much lower and is less accurate for a fan. Do you have electric fans??? 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 6, 2020 Report Share Posted October 6, 2020 No idea what this is. It is blocking air flow. Fan?? Does it have electrical wires. Doesn't belong there and will eventually chafe a hole in the rad. . 1 Quote Link to comment
None_zero Posted October 7, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2020 7 hours ago, datzenmike said: That's the oil low pressure switch just right of the oil filter. It's in the pressure line to the oil filter which is not only not correct but if the filter were to clog it wouldn't warn you of low pressure. It's correct location is that other fitting on the left of the filter that is probably for an oil cooler??? or maybe oil feed for a turbo? Whatever it's for it's a bad idea. The sensor should be put on a TEE fitting if doing this. I would buy a new oil pressure warning switch and put it in the proper location and wire it up. Just leave the other one to fill the hole. DETONATION SENSOR Would only be on the Z20 engine on the Mileage Option 720. It should be higher up on the block just under the head and would NEVER be on the oil line up to the head where the warning light sensor switch should be. Look between the two pair of exhaust pipes exiting the head. The engine ID is there just below the head on top edge of block... The fitting top left (with two wires) looks like a temperature switch for turning an electric fan on for the radiator. Again not stock. The temperature gauge sender is just below the thermostat to read the hot water coming out of the engine. This is on the intake which will read much lower and is less accurate for a fan. Do you have electric fans??? Ok let me unpack this so So that port just behind and above the oil filter is not a det sensor? (This is a z20 engine bit not sure about the mileage option how would I know?) I removed the oil pressure sensor from that hole just to the right of the oil filter. You are saying it shouldn't be there? What kind of a t do you mean? I have zero experience with after market mods all my mechanical learning comes from taking shit apart and figuring out why it doesn't work when it's broken. And this is the deepest I've ever really delved into any vehicle. I have done the light work previously, oil change, brake pads, valve cover gasket. Alternator replacement water pump replacement. Things like that so forgive my ignorance please and explain it like you would for a moron. 1 Quote Link to comment
None_zero Posted October 7, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2020 Oh and no i dont have electric fans unless that thing in front of the rad was a fan It does have wires but I haven't tried to turn it on or take it apart yet 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 7, 2020 Report Share Posted October 7, 2020 8 hours ago, datzenmike said: That's the oil low pressure switch just right of the oil filter. It's in the pressure line to the oil filter which is not only not correct but if the filter were to clog it wouldn't warn you of low pressure. It's correct location is that other fitting on the left of the filter that is probably for an oil cooler??? or maybe oil feed for a turbo? Whatever it's for it's a bad idea. The sensor should be put on a TEE fitting if doing this. I would buy a new oil pressure warning switch and put it in the proper location and wire it up. Just leave the other one to fill the hole. Don't remove it. The hole has to stay plugged or oil will spray out. Get a new sender and put it on the left of the filter where that fitting is.. 1 Quote Link to comment
None_zero Posted October 7, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2020 😥shit totally already removed it. Was attempting to test viability with an ohm reader and realized I dont know if this is a "normally open" or "normally closed" circuit 1 Quote Link to comment
None_zero Posted October 7, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2020 I got a wild hare this afternoon and removed the rad the alternator the batt and cleaned a truckload of oil and grime off the engine so I could more easily find the oil leak I have I suspected it was at the oil pan gasket and i think i was correct. Will I have to remove the transmission to replace that gasket ? 1 Quote Link to comment
None_zero Posted October 7, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2020 11 minutes ago, datzenmike said: Don't remove it. The hole has to stay plugged or oil will spray out. Get a new sender and put it on the left of the filter where that fitting is.. Couldn't I swap the two fittings and cap the unused one? 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 7, 2020 Report Share Posted October 7, 2020 Yes that would also work. The one on the left is already capped or oil would be coming out when running. 45 minutes ago, None_zero said: I got a wild hare this afternoon and removed the rad the alternator the batt and cleaned a truckload of oil and grime off the engine so I could more easily find the oil leak I have I suspected it was at the oil pan gasket and i think i was correct. Will I have to remove the transmission to replace that gasket ? No the transmission is not in the way. The steering and cross brace are in the way. 2 Quote Link to comment
None_zero Posted October 7, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2020 7 hours ago, datzenmike said: Yes that would also work. The one on the left is already capped or oil would be coming out when running. No the transmission is not in the way. The steering and cross brace are in the way. I thought that might be the case, maybe I was wrong about the oil leak after all. That knock sensor or whatever it is was capped for most of the time I've had the truck but maybe a month or three ago I was doing some work to it and a buddy of mine reached back in there and pulled the cap out and didn't know where he'd pulled it from as it's not terribly visible most of the time. I had forgotten about that but I think that's around the same time I developed the oil leak... jesus Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 7, 2020 Report Share Posted October 7, 2020 If it leaks get rid of it and put a new sender in that hole. They're $10 O Rylies' 2 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted October 7, 2020 Report Share Posted October 7, 2020 Just as an fyi, these oil senders are an uncommon thread. They are British standard pipe thread. Nothing else on the engine is, just the sender. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 7, 2020 Report Share Posted October 7, 2020 The BSPT was used up well into the 2000s and maybe still used today. In the 50s Nissan built some Austin cars under license and also had access to blueprints and manufacturing processes and copyrights. The Austin engine was copied and improved and MG engines share a lot of parts with the E and J series engines. The British pipe thread was continued because... they could I guess. Know why the Pontiac has a big nose on the fronts? 1 Quote Link to comment
None_zero Posted October 8, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2020 Nope. Why? Quote Link to comment
None_zero Posted October 8, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2020 So while I've been doing all this work sorting out the wiring I've had the dash out. I took this opportunity to affect some repairs there also Quote Link to comment
None_zero Posted October 8, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2020 I made a filler from sawdust and wood glue to fill the main portion of the deteriorated areas in the dash. I'd already started spreading in into the voids when I remembered to get a "before picture" then i let that cure and filled over that with a water based wood filler and sanded it smooth'ish then I sprayed it matte glacier grey and did a final fill with some light gray dynaflex ultra and and accented the vents and knobs with rustoleums' 2x gloss, the color is "seaside" Quote Link to comment
None_zero Posted October 8, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2020 (edited) Here is what I've got currently, I'm not sure about the yellow on the shroud... Edited October 8, 2020 by None_zero Quote Link to comment
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