Wahinkpe69 Posted March 4, 2020 Report Share Posted March 4, 2020 So, looking to upgrade my carb from the lousy Hitachi which is cracked and has a bad choke, to the Webber 32 36. Only problem, is the only one I can find is the DGAV not the DGEV. So, my question, to those who know the difference is, will the DGAV fit even though it is aqua and not electric? Everything that I have found recommends the DGEV. Greatly appreciate some expert advice, especially from you DatsunMike . Really like to get this thing back on the road. Thanks in advance. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 5, 2020 Report Share Posted March 5, 2020 I would hold out for the electric choke. The DGAV uses engine coolant to warm and turn the choke off.... unnecessarily complicated plumbing. Try Pierce Manifolds or Redline for your authentic WEBER carb. Avoid knock offs made in China. Get the real thing. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 5, 2020 Report Share Posted March 5, 2020 (edited) why they stop selling them? order the kit so you have the correct adapter one of many places https://www.yotashop.com/32-36-dgev-weber-carburetor-electric-choke-carb-only-226800338b/?_vsrefdom=adwords&msclkid=6be69f12e7a21848d236c173edd70385&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=**LP Shopping - Lift Kits, Carbs, IMC %26 More&utm_term=4575411480914229&utm_content=124_208 | 32%2F36 DGEV Weber carburetor Electric Choke - 226800338B | %24250 USD Edited March 5, 2020 by banzai510(hainz) Quote Link to comment
Wahinkpe69 Posted March 5, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2020 Maybe, I should have been more clear. The only one I can afford (used) is the DGAV at a local wrecking yard. New is way outside of my budget. So, the question is whether or not I can make the DGAV work. Not whether or not it will be easy or clean. Eventually, I want to find an EGI for it so I can have fuel injection. Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted March 6, 2020 Report Share Posted March 6, 2020 19 hours ago, Wahinkpe69 said: Maybe, I should have been more clear. The only one I can afford (used) is the DGAV at a local wrecking yard. New is way outside of my budget. So, the question is whether or not I can make the DGAV work. Not whether or not it will be easy or clean. Eventually, I want to find an EGI for it so I can have fuel injection. I think you can.... just convert the choke to manual versus water.... https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fp%2F14019787644 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 6, 2020 Report Share Posted March 6, 2020 Don't do it!!! You're just buying someone's used broke ass carburetor from a 70s Pinto. Endless problems to solve never runs right on worn out throttle shaft and parts to replace. You aren't moving up... you're moving sideways or down. Save up and get a genuine new Weber. It's easier to spend $30 and a rebuild kit for your Hitachi. Most carbs just need cleaning a new accelerator pump and setting the adjustments. You'd have to on that old Pinto carb anyway. Quote Link to comment
Wahinkpe69 Posted March 6, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2020 Thanks for the info. DatzenMike, appreciate your comments as always brother, although I don't always agree. What do mean a real Weber? It is a real Weber, made in Spain. As far as rebuild kits only being $30 for A15 Hitachi I'd love to know your source. Cheapest ones I found were $135. Also, Hitachi is not able to be rebuilt. It's got a cracked housing causing a vacuum leak and gas leak. Not to mention a bad ant-dieseling solenoid, bad choke, etc. It's garbage. This carb didn't come off of a Pinto either but a Suzuki. If I remember correctly the carbs on the Pinto were the Holley Weber 5210 which is 26/27 not 32/36. I think they were about 270 cfm. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 6, 2020 Report Share Posted March 6, 2020 They're from Italy but mostly licenced to be made in Spain. There are counterfeit ones made in China all over, so find the REAL ones. My price is probably decades old. Gaskets don't wear out and if you take apart carefully they are reusable. Usually a cleaning and returning to stock settings (use a FSM manual for this) will cure most problems. Only moving parts are the throttle shafts and the accelerator pump, leaving dirt and previous owner's poor adjustments as a cause of your current problems. If that badly cracked then something fell on it. If Suzuki carb engine it's got to be over 35 years old. Best is to get a new Weber and save yourself a lot of bother. Old Webers are as bad as old Hitachis. Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted March 7, 2020 Report Share Posted March 7, 2020 I would be careful too. How old is this junkyard carb? Is it new enough to have the redesigned fuel circuits? Has it run in the past three years? Is it crusty and in need of a thorough cleaning. I know you say you're broke, but how hard is it really to come up with $250 for a new one? Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 7, 2020 Report Share Posted March 7, 2020 Believe me it’s Hard.!!!!!!!! 1 Quote Link to comment
pdp8 Posted March 8, 2020 Report Share Posted March 8, 2020 I bought a Hitachi rebuild kit for not more than $45 off Epay in the last year, here's a current listing for under $20: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Standard-1566-Carburetor-Rebuild-Kit-For-1976-1983-Datsun-Nissan-Hitachi-2-BBL/184159802445?fits=Make%3ADatsun&hash=item2ae0c7944d:g:NawAAOSwkaNeOr~E You can remove the anti-diesel solenoid and dump the plunger out, then put the body back in to cover the hole, now that's taken care of. Other parts are easy as well, I've got a box of Hitachi spares so reach out if you want to fix yours on the cheap.... main body and choke top, say $35+ship. The Webber can be cool for the increased torque mid-throttle, but with a stock motor WOT isn't any better than the Hitachi and you'll just be dumping fuel down the motor for no good reason. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted March 11, 2020 Report Share Posted March 11, 2020 On 3/7/2020 at 7:09 PM, pdp8 said: The Webber can be cool for the increased torque mid-throttle, but with a stock motor WOT isn't any better than the Hitachi and you'll just be dumping fuel down the motor for no good reason. With a few minor tweaks, you can get better all around performance with a Weber than with a stock carb. Quote Link to comment
pdp8 Posted March 11, 2020 Report Share Posted March 11, 2020 7 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said: With a few minor tweaks, you can get better all around performance with a Weber than with a stock carb. Without internal changes to the motor or different manifolds? I'd love to know what those changes are. Of course, I'd given my Hitachi a bit of a massage so it flows a touch better than factory. Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted March 13, 2020 Report Share Posted March 13, 2020 Distributor. Have it re-curved and set the initial timing a bit higher, like 12 degrees. Cam timing. Set it with a dial indicator and/or a degree wheel. This requires pulling the front cover on an A motor, so not so simple. Make sure the valves are adjusted properly. Maybe even tighten them up a couple thou. You can also kind of fake cam timing adjustments with valve adjustments. If the stock setting is .010"/.010", setting the intake to .008" and the exhaust to .010" is like advancing the cam. Exhaust. A simple "muffler shop" exhaust system and turbo muffler will waken things up a bit too. If you don't already have the good early exhaust manifold, see if you can find one. They are worth a couple HP. Spark plugs. Run something like a B6ES, without the projected tip. Stay away from fancy modern spark plugs that have multiple electrodes or v-notches. Quote Link to comment
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