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pdp8

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About pdp8

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    california, bay area
  • Cars
    1979 210 wagon, 1972 1200,4 Saabs,2XE350,2XCVR(T) if those count
  • Interests
    Older cars, old computers, CVR(T)
  • Occupation
    telescope technician

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  1. Exactly. Since it locates the countershaft when there is no load, it seems like too tight and things will wear but a little loose and all you get is a slight increase in noise or wear when decelerating. It feel about right in terms of drag and pushing on things I can just get a dial indicator to wiggle, so from 0-.0004" is where I think I'm at. I finally reunited the gearbox to the A14 and set them both into the 1200 coupe where they will be living from here on. Now I have to work out the motor mounts, but that's another thread and sub-forum!
  2. PRERUNNER TURBO 300ZX https://sacramento.craigslist.org/cto/d/loomis-prerunner-turbo-300zx-fox-shocks/7052494007.html Well, it's different anyway. I give the builder marks for creativity. The seller seems a little shaky though. I was just amused and thought I'd share.
  3. It's a drive-fit in the hole and the hole has no bottom, so it relies on friction to stay seated. This is sort of interesting since the countershaft is driven into the adapter plate when the motor is driving the car but if you are engine braking some percentage of the thrust from the countershaft does push on this bearing-with-no-bottom.
  4. I thought since I had to replace the seals on one of my 5-speed transmissions since it was leaking a bit and out of the car anyway, I might as well do an overhaul. Found a fairly complete kit at a good price and went for it. Thing is, I'd left my factory manual at my other shop. So, while most of the process is really very self-explanatory I did have an issue... The front countershaft bearing. It's supposed to be installed with a special tool I don't have and then shimmed with some shims I don't have either. I understand the idea is for the counteshaft to have basically no play in thrust. With that in mind, I fitted the adapter plate with the complete gearstack to the front housing, bolted them together and finding the countershaft too tight I tapped it to move said bearing out a touch until I had about .001 of end-play in the countershaft. The first time I went too far and had to tap it back in until the shaft was tight and then back out. Anybody have a better solution to this problem?
  5. Oh, ouch. Lots of anti-inflammatory drugs and about four days horizontal for the whiplash was what it took me to recover physically from a very similar wreck. The paranoia about idiot drivers behind me may never fully dissipate but the first six months was pretty annoying. Sounds like you are deep into the realm of needing a new body tub. You can fix yours by finding a rear quarter but splicing the unibody is really annoying and time consuming . Unless you have a lot of time and/or money, by the time you find a good donor for the rear quarter that body is likely to be a better thing to start moving the good parts from your old car over to. I wound up buying 2.3 additional vehicles to fix the one I had wrecked by some fool on his phone. Good luck in your recovery.
  6. The problem with just buying seals and bearings individually is the cost does add up pretty quickly. I just got an overhaul kit for my 60-A for $142 delivered. It came with synchros, a half-dozen bearings, and a few seals. The bearings were made in Japan. It wasn't a soup-to-nuts kit, it would have been really nice if it included an output shaft seal and collar for instance, but was plenty good enough to deal with the normal input-shaft bearing wear, seal leakage, etc. on a otherwise decent gearbox.
  7. The electronics on these are pretty darn fancy to get them to work out. Go check out some of the cool stuff people are doing with Zero motorcycle engines though! 110HP 140ft/lb for a tiny lightweight motor and unlike the Tesla the motors are pretty common out there. I know some folks were working to install two using a differential of some sort, the timing of the electronics makes ganging them radially a bit tough. Some good info here: https://cafe.foundation/blog/new-zero-powerplants/
  8. I'm planning to make an oversize pan to air in underbody drag reduction, there was a fellow doing extreme MPG runs who said a full pan got him +10MPG. I've used "water wetter" in the past and found it to work pretty well, 5-10F difference with no other changes. I'm also an advocate of electric cooling fans, move lots of air at low speeds and don't pay to move it when you are in-motion, makes for a nice quiet idle too.
  9. I find the stock brakes to work pretty well, all things considered. The issues I've had with these are: 1) the rubber hoses swell up on the inside, well worth the ~$30 for three new flex lines. 2) people never change the fluid and after it gets all waterlogged the pistons rust up a bit and drag. In both cases when you step on the brakes you have a lot of pressure, so things will move if they can at all, but when you let off the brake the little bit of spring tension isn't nearly enough to overcome the drag in the system. Disassemble and flush all four corners and replace the soft lines if you don't know when they were last changed and you might be done.
  10. These little cars don't have room for long words, hence the abbreviations. 🙂 When I put the Webber on I found I was way rich, not really from jetting but because it was too much carb for the manifold vacuum and I was on the power valve all the time. Modification of the power valve solved the problem. I still don't get the 39MPG I got with the Hitachi but it's about 35.
  11. I prefer the round headlight version but that's a nice looking car even as a survivor. I think the yellow suits them. Hard to find brown interior bits. Good luck on the build.
  12. Time Left: 13 days and 12 hours

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    I bought this wagon to combine with my trusty '79 so all the facelift parts are available. This amounts to the front clip: Hood which is very nice ($120), cowl panel ($22)also nice. Passenger fender ($80), generally very good, no rust on anything. Driver fender ($25), no rust but pretty wrinkled near the marker light / bumper area. Headlight bezels with markers ($50), passenger side is solid, driver side missing a chunk on the bottom. Valance under bumper supports($10), no rust but wrinkled Or $200 for the lot. All prices are me pulling the part and you picking it up. Pickup can be Santa Cruz, CA, Fresno, CA, or somewhere in-between. The drivetrain and body are spoken for but if you need a door, some glass , or something perhaps we can work it out.

    $200.00

    Santa Cruz, California - US

  13. PMd about a set I just pulled off.
  14. pdp8

    Celica Supra Wheels?

    I'd just go with factory 13" and leave the winter tires on them, just swap wheels in spring and fall. There are plenty of 155/80r13 snow tires out there still and I'd be shocked if they didn't fit nicely with the 13" factory wheels, it's only an extra .5" in radius after all. 175/70r13s should clear OK as well but for snow/ice you might want the skinny tires to get the ground pressure up a bit.
  15. Time to update the ad now that the wagon is sold. It flat-towed just fine BTW.
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