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About pdp8

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

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  • Gender
  • Location
    california, bay area
  • Cars
    1979 210 wagon, 1972 1200,4 Saabs,2XE350,2XCVR(T) if those count
  • Interests
    Older cars, old computers, CVR(T)
  • Occupation
    telescope technician

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  1. pdp8

    12" tire options?

    Not golf cart tires but close, At work we have a little electric utility truck that is scarcely more than a golf cart and I was amused to find it riding on the same 155/80R12s that are factory spec for the 1200.
  2. pdp8

    A12 turbo help

    I was looking at the tiny GT12 / GT1241 but not sure my math is any better than yours. I'll eagerly await your progress. Best of luck.
  3. I wanted the option of hooking stuff up, reduction in intake noise, and a more stock look. When I first did it, the idea of being stealth enough to get by smog was not lost on me. 🙂
  4. I like the old Bendex-type pumps. Low pressure, built-in fuel filter, usually US-made, and flight-rated. I've manged to score some off Ebay on the cheap. I see some now for under $30.
  5. I know I should make a nice inner plate and a bridge over it to hold the cover, but I just didn't have the time but still wanted to get rid of the Webber air cleaner. You have to pound the center pretty flat and dish it down a little to get the air cleaner high enough to clear the top of the fuel bowl. It worked pretty well, I decided to try to get it a little flatter so broke out the stud-gun to reduce the warping but that's not necessary to make it work at all. So, I'm not proud of it, but it works:
  6. How is your throttle-body? When these get worn the shaft gets sloppy in the bore and it's hard to get a really good steady idle out of it. Last I checked these folks had them at really great prices: https://www.oem-surplus.com/nwp/1200.htm Setting the timing of the accelerator pump is a little fussy to get just right on these carbs, pay special attention to the linkage and the pre-travel above the plunger. You'll know it when you get it right since it won't bog on rapid acceleration. Oh, and of course remember to make note of which jet goes where, yada-yada.
  7. pdp8

    12" tire options?

    It's good to hear they will go some distance and handle OK. Gives one some hope. It does seem like cheaper tires suffer from UV damage worse than at least old quality tires. Makes one wonder what that's about. 12" tires are hard, but actually I've been finding that it seems comparatively easy after shopping for tyres for my Ferret. The ones on it are likely from 1980 or perhaps well before... I like to think of it as the Datsun 210 of armored vehicles. 🙂
  8. pdp8

    12" tire options?

    OK, good to have some options on the Mini site. None of the are the right diameter for stock but it's something. I've been running 12s in front and 13s in back for the mini-musclecar look and to pick up a few MPH on the freeway and have been really happy with that arrangement overall butstill would like to find some actual quality 155/80r12 or 165/70R12. I notice MiniMania does sell the Nankang 165/70 but at just under 2x the price of getting them off Eaby. 😞
  9. The shop near me says it would be about $70 per hose to make them up custom. Er, ouch.
  10. I'm unimpressed by the flow from that fuel pump from the video. I'd want to check it for flow and pressure against the manual, or at least T in a pressure gauge and see that it maintains a few PSI. Could be a flat lobe on the cam, could be leaky return springs, or it could be just fine. Easy thing to do is put an electric fuel pump in the line as a test. If it runs better or the same, you know something about the state of your fuel system. Also worth checking the fuel level thru the window in the side of your Hitachi carb. That said, I'm sure servicing your carburetor would be worthwhile, particularity if the car sat for a while as the accelerator pump cups tend to dry out and get loose. Be aware the linkage for the accelerator pump has to be set just so to get the timing right, so if you wind up with flat spots in your acceleration that's not a bad place to look.
  11. Indeed, replace the soft lines under the hood, if they haven't failed yet, they will soon. I've also seen a number of bad pumps myself. Throw a cheap electric fuel pump in the line in place of the mechanical one, if it runs well then you have your answer! I won't say I haven't had to dump the crud out of a carburetor from time to time, but on the Datsuns I've wasted more time doing that when I should have been looking elsewhere. It isn't a bad idea to back-flush your main fuel line with some compressed-air, just don't go crazy with the line pressure, I just tried to unblock some fuel lines on a Ferret scout car and damaged the tank through overpressure. 😞
  12. pdp8

    210's UNITE!!!!!!!!!

    Pics of 210s, I suppose I can help with that. Here's a few I owned. The white one was too nice to paint but too white for my taste so has moved on and I'm working to combine the green and silver ones.
  13. Be aware that it's common for the rubber parts at the top of the tank to to fail from age or handling when you remove/replace the tank. So if they don't leak now you are risking their integrity by touching them. In my case since I own a number of vehicles it's not uncommon for them to sit a week between drives. Rather than having to crank the motor long enough to get the fuel pump to fill the carburetor I'm prone to go with the inline electric pump and delete the mechanical one. Speaking of weight savings, my radiator when I bought the car was 10.6lbs and didn't cool things well. I flushed it out and even rodded out the center section near the radiator cab, only to decide I wasn't going to feel good about it's state. The new Worley that replaced it was just 6.7lbs. Saving 4 lbs up front for not much over $100 is pretty nice, as is reducing the amount of copper in the cooling system for a car with an aluminum cylinder head. I wish I could find an aluminum heater core as well.
  14. I'm running 12" in front and 13" in back. It was intended to be temporary but it's really grown on me. Finding decent quality 12" tires is a challenge though. At least in 13" you have some more options. Funny thing though, now that I'm used to the "big" tires in back, setting a factory 12" in there makes it look like a donut spare. Replaced front quarter vent seals, finished modifying B210 rails for front seats and had the seats reupholstered. New 175s in front (I want to go back to 155). Bought a replacement R. fender and working on getting paint on it. Thinned the lens in front of the hi-beam bulb to compensate for it's darkening over the years.
  15. pdp8

    Coupe vent seals

    The whistling coming from my front vent windows was driving me crazy so I dug around for replacements. I checked all the regular places and then a fellow 1200 fan turned me on to these: https://allmusclecarparts.com.au/datsun-1200-cpe-rh-frnt-vent-seal.html It took a minute to get them shipped internationally and cost a couple bucks, but it was well worth it for how much better the car looks and how much quieter it is. Tearing the door all the way down was a pain and digging out the old seals also took time. The new ones went in pretty easily overall. On the whole I think they are a nice part, they seemed to not have very good overlap on the top half of the glass though. I strongly suspect it is due to the lower window pivot having receded into the frame over time and under spring pressure. When I get to it I'll pull that back apart and see if I can shim it up a bit. I will say that having done one, I realized one *could* do the swap without pulling the door all apart. Just remove the two nuts, washer, spring, and limit from the lower pivot and go for it. I also decided not to try on the other side because it's hard enough to dig the old rubber out and get the nuts off the pivot shaft I decided it was safer to take the extra time than risk screwing something up or hurting myself. Now that the seals are new and nuts have moved this century, I think I will try to take it apart to do the aforementioned shimming without stripping the door.
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