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About pdp8

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  • Location
    california, bay area
  • Cars
    1979 210 wagon, 1972 1200,4 Saabs,2XE350,2XCVR(T) if those count
  • Interests
    Older cars, old computers, CVR(T)
  • Occupation
    telescope technician

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  1. At a San Jose, CA wrecking yard. They have it listed as a B210 but of course it's an 810. 4-speed manual and three original hubcaps in the back seat.
  2. Thanks for the suggestions. I did replace the needle and seat and set the float height, fuel level looks OK. I passed the car on to someone more excited about it than I was. Now I can get back to work on my 210 and the new (to me) 1200.
  3. Not on CL yet (later today) but there is a long-standing wrecking yard on the central coast of California that is closing up shop later this week. Anthony's auto wrecking in Santa Cruz. They don't have anything old Datsun, mid 90s is as old as the Nissans go, but what they do have is CHEAP. Like bring $100 and take away a car cheap. So if you want a 2.4 altima motor, a series 3 MG Midget, or seats out of a BMW to rat up your dime, you have one to three days depending on how fast they get the crusher running! Some decent wheels left seems like. I got an armload of cooling fans off the shelf, I think it was under $5/ea and one was a cool old Nippon Denso. Mufflers, fuel pumps, independent suspension swap bits, I'm having way too much fun. I'm in the same industrial complex and happy to help if I can but I'm pretty busy grabbing ford van parts.
  4. Just FWIW there is a fresh 200SX in the Fresno, CA Pick-N-Pull. Looked complete and in decent condition.
  5. Thinking I'll skip over the electronic part, an old Bosch K-jetronic system needs ignition and starter power and nothing else electrical while fixing most of what I don't like about carburettors. It's barely possible that one could build a lighter megasquirt setup and I'm sure one could come up with a better fuel-map but easy wins for me on this. Should cost me under $200.
  6. Have to figure out a way to cool them as well. I'm trying to not go too far outside the box, hence an interest in the CR engine since they at least have a touch of common heritage with the A-series motors. I did consider the V4 Ford motor for just a moment, similar to a A-series in weight, capable of some power, and would look super cool under the hood. So far the E15 sounds like the only winning swap and even then not by much. I'll hope to get an honest weight for a CR1x motor someday but until then I guess I'll consider just doing a turbo/FI A12.
  7. Time Left: 4 days and 21 hours

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    A pair of decent visors, good seatbelt, and the dreaded driver side E-brake cable. $50 for the lot. Came off a '74 king cab. Happy to trade for 310 or 1200 bits I need.


    santa cruz, ca

  8. Time Left: 4 days and 20 hours

    • WANTED
    • USED

    Somebody plowed into the back of my trusty wagon, I found a couple decent quarter panels but I'd love to find a good tailgate. It's a weird shaped and large item so I sort of fear shipping, but open to ideas.


    santa cruz, ca

  9. So, what would you want for that 63-series 5-speed box anyway?

    Sure, I can make my own adapters and such, but I have enough to do and there is something to be said for something that just works.

  10. I wonder what the Miata gearbox is, oh wait... the internet! Looks like 76-80lbs and, wow are they ever cheap! I just weighed a 4-speed transmission I pulled off an A14 at 45Lbs so that is going the wrong direction in a big way. I'll run the 4-speed unless I find something lighter or 5-speed I can afford. I did just check the Micra forums and I suppose it's not a huge shock that Micra owners seem less technically savvy than the folks here, not a lot of detailed technical information to say the least. I'll dig some more and see what comes out. The battery is great advice of course. I killed a couple very expensive lithium batteries due to aging electrical issues with my 210 so switched to a small AGM. It's a lot cheaper, more robust, but still only weighs about 11Lbs. Not only does it save you a lot of weight, it's weight that is really far forward and up high so I really felt it. At the time my commute was up a winding mountain road and just changing from a big wet battery to the lithium made the brakes work better and saved me a lot of gear changes.
  11. I must admit to being a bit surprised and disappointed that the aluminum motors aren't lighter than a cast iron motor and also don't seen to make more power than they do. Changing to a 16V crossflow head did pretty amazing things for the other motor series I spend time with, the 2.0 Saab engine. I have a spare A14 but I think I'd rather keep the A12 and put a turbo on it, for the same weight increase I'd get a lot more torque and who dosen't smile after waiting for the snail to spool it finally makes full boost. I appreciate that people are trying to help but the "X makes a lot more power than a A12" isn't what I need since just about anything makes more power than a stock A12. I'm looking for reduced weight and increased efficiency, sure I'll make it more powerful but I want to make the rest of the car work better and with the work I did on my 210 I was impressed by how shaving 50lbs off the car made it feel. OK, an E15 is lighter than an A, thanks very much for that. Now we're getting somewhere. I wonder if that's an A14/15 in which case it weighs about the same as an A12. I'd rather have less weight but more power in the same weight is as least not going the wrong direction. I imagined that I'd eventually go with a crank-fire setup though it wouldn't have hurt my feelings to be able to run a distributor while I got things settled a bit. I'm not particularly attached to the A bolt pattern since the car currently has the dreaded slushbox and with all the Spridget folks driving the price of a 5-speed so high I imagine I'll be reconsidering my transmission anyway. Of course if anybody has a 5-speed tranny for a reasonable price I'm willing to reconsider. 🙂 I'm a machinist with a CNC or four at my disposal so adapter plates and such aren't a problem. I do still wonder what a CR12 really weighs, or rather what that weight includes.
  12. If I just wanted a little more power I'd go ahead and drop in an A14 or even just do mods on the A12 (87Kg) and it easily could come to that. I was looking for modest performance gains, lower emissions, and a way to capitalize on one of the car's outstanding attributes, it's light weight. It did seem like an engine of similar displacement but using an Al block and other modern attributes (timing belt rather than chain, direct drive distributor, no pushrods, plastic intake manifold, tube steel exhaust manifold, etc.) *should* be lighter
  13. Ah, just Google stuff: CR10 ~110KG CR12,CR14, ~120KG Odd, since that's a lot heavier that An A12 or A14 despite that Al block... Perhaps it's something like an all-up weight with gearbox or all the engine control stuff, in any case it seems to not make a lot of sense. Anybody out there with first-hand A12 vs CR1x experience?
  14. So, thinking about a swap in my 1200. Not that I don't enjoy the A12 motor but I'd love this car to lose some weight and since I need to find a manual transmission anyway... Seems like the CR series motors are sort of spiritual grandchildren of the A motors and Al block to boot so I thought I'd have a look. If I use a CR12 I can feel OK about the 1200 badge on the boot lid, question is, what does a CR12 series weigh? Also, does a CR10 or CR14 weigh more or less? Obviously, since I'm in the states the availability of CR motors is poor so I'm willing to consider other options but I don't have the heart to put anything Honda or Toyota in there, perhaps something from Smart or Ford but Nissan motors get first look.
  15. Just saw this console less gauge insert yesterday, it still had the Datsun plastic filler.
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