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pdp8

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    california, bay area
  • Cars
    1979 210 wagon, 1972 1200,4 Saabs,2XE350,2XCVR(T) if those count
  • Interests
    Older cars, old computers, CVR(T)
  • Occupation
    telescope technician

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  1. If you keep the Hitachi then you want to keep the heat shield and spacer, these are useful in preventing your fuel from boiling in heavy traffic on a hot day and also from evaporating when you stop the motor so you will get faster starts. The Webber swap helps a ton in the mid-range, at the expense of several MPG.
  2. pdp8

    Reviving an old b210

    I was going to chime in but non-unusually Mike has covered everything that needs to be covered. The only thing I *might* say is I've had brakes lock up after a block or so because they will apply but have too much rust/crud to release so either don't go far or pull the wheels, apply the brakes, and make sure they retract normally. After having some soft-lines that looked OK swell up inside to they didn't pass fluid I've started replacing all three soft lines as a matter of principle when rescuing a car that's been sitting.
  3. So little info here... The 5-speeds are worth a premium over the autos by ~$800. Where to look for rust: bottom back of the fenders is the spot that almost always goes first. After that it's the back bottom corners of the front doors. Then it varies, sometimes it's around the front windshield and sometimes it's the tops of the wheel arches. Once again, no pics and no details = wild ass guess. That said, $2100-3500 is about the range I'm used to in this part of the world unless it's junk or particularly nice.
  4. Pretty good chance you'll be replacing a decent chunk of the exhaust if you are doing a motor swap anyway. I lost my mind and had a 2" system put on a medium-hot A14 and it's WAY too much and sounds like crap. I wish I'd gone 1-3/4".
  5. I recently did an "easy" swap, A14 into an A12 car, by the time I'd done the fabrication for the motor mounts, transmission mounts, came up with a solution for the exhaust, radiator hoses, figured out a way to squeeze in an electric fan, and all the other little bits I had the car apart for at least a month and it was longer before some of the other issues were sorted. In the end it cost a lot more in time and money than putting a turbo on the A12 and I would have had a faster car. I'm with Dguy210 in suggesting you work with what you have for a minute before pulling the pin on the engine swap grenade. The L20 swap will add a good amount of weight which will make your suspension and brakes worse and the A-series motor has room to grow from stock. If you don't have the electronic ignition, get one ASAP. Get a Webber and a header and you'll be able to enjoy the car a lot more while actually reducing weight. Speaking of, get a little sealed gel battery in there, $100 and shaves 30Lbs off the car high and far forward, if you are sensitive you can actually feel the difference it makes. Check that you have a decent flowing oval-port head, if not it might be worth the swap. a little bigger exhaust will help as well, don't go too big or it costs you torque you can ill-afford to spend.
  6. I would strongly consider electrolysis for your rust removal, might be a lot quicker than a week.
  7. pdp8

    12" tire options?

    Not golf cart tires but close, At work we have a little electric utility truck that is scarcely more than a golf cart and I was amused to find it riding on the same 155/80R12s that are factory spec for the 1200.
  8. pdp8

    A12 turbo help

    I was looking at the tiny GT12 / GT1241 but not sure my math is any better than yours. I'll eagerly await your progress. Best of luck.
  9. I wanted the option of hooking stuff up, reduction in intake noise, and a more stock look. When I first did it, the idea of being stealth enough to get by smog was not lost on me. 🙂
  10. I like the old Bendex-type pumps. Low pressure, built-in fuel filter, usually US-made, and flight-rated. I've manged to score some off Ebay on the cheap. I see some now for under $30.
  11. I know I should make a nice inner plate and a bridge over it to hold the cover, but I just didn't have the time but still wanted to get rid of the Webber air cleaner. You have to pound the center pretty flat and dish it down a little to get the air cleaner high enough to clear the top of the fuel bowl. It worked pretty well, I decided to try to get it a little flatter so broke out the stud-gun to reduce the warping but that's not necessary to make it work at all. So, I'm not proud of it, but it works:
  12. How is your throttle-body? When these get worn the shaft gets sloppy in the bore and it's hard to get a really good steady idle out of it. Last I checked these folks had them at really great prices: https://www.oem-surplus.com/nwp/1200.htm Setting the timing of the accelerator pump is a little fussy to get just right on these carbs, pay special attention to the linkage and the pre-travel above the plunger. You'll know it when you get it right since it won't bog on rapid acceleration. Oh, and of course remember to make note of which jet goes where, yada-yada.
  13. pdp8

    12" tire options?

    It's good to hear they will go some distance and handle OK. Gives one some hope. It does seem like cheaper tires suffer from UV damage worse than at least old quality tires. Makes one wonder what that's about. 12" tires are hard, but actually I've been finding that it seems comparatively easy after shopping for tyres for my Ferret. The ones on it are likely from 1980 or perhaps well before... I like to think of it as the Datsun 210 of armored vehicles. 🙂
  14. pdp8

    12" tire options?

    OK, good to have some options on the Mini site. None of the are the right diameter for stock but it's something. I've been running 12s in front and 13s in back for the mini-musclecar look and to pick up a few MPH on the freeway and have been really happy with that arrangement overall butstill would like to find some actual quality 155/80r12 or 165/70R12. I notice MiniMania does sell the Nankang 165/70 but at just under 2x the price of getting them off Eaby. 😞
  15. The shop near me says it would be about $70 per hose to make them up custom. Er, ouch.
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