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nissan720

distributor change

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had my distributor changed by a reputable shop.Now my truck will not crank.it's a ka23e i put into my 84 720. i used a dizzy out of a 79 datsun.what happen was my dizzy went bad took it to shop to have it replaced.guy at shop used same kind of dizzy.now truck won'tt crank.any help is appreciated.crnked smooth at first ,now it tries to rurn over hard.

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It's a KA24E or DE. I assume you got rid of the EFI and have a carburetor on it? If still EFI then you need a CAS not a '79 EI distributor.

 

 

Won't crank or cranks but won't fire up and run???? Your 'reputable' shop replaced the distributor but didn't start it up to see??? Doesn't sound very reputable.

 

What was wrong with the EI??? Broken or no spark? If no spark then replacing the dizzy and still no spark could be something else like a bad coil.

 

Usually this is the ignition module an easy fix.

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its a ka24e.the shop called me and told me that the truck wouldn;t crank.it has a carburator on it.it will crank up and cut rightback off.i went down to check out what the guy was telling me.and sure nough.it would crank up but would not remain running.checked the fuel pump.

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 Need more info

 

Did this set up ever run properly??? Yes or no???

What was wrong with the original distributor??? What made you change it?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Yeah, definitely need more info.

 

What carburetor?

 

How did you go about swapping out the CAS for a distributor?

 

Clarify cranking. Cranking is when the engine turns when the key is engaged. If it cranks, it cranks. Not running is another thing. Don't confuse cranking with running. Are you saying that it cranks until it fires then doesn't crank again? Or it cranks but won't run? It could be the firing order is wrong and the hard cranking is due to cylinders trying to fire out of order.

 

Who did the engine swap?

 

Like Mike asked, did it ever run after the engine swap? If it ran before with this engine and all you did was replace the distributor, they probably got the firing order wrong.

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got everthing sorted out.thanks for the input.did find out that i needed a carburetor. i have a weber 32/36 dgev. i may have to do a rebuild kit.its flooding really bad. any suggestions?

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Like gas dripping into the primary? you can see this??? Or is it just rich from the choke stuck on???

 

Old Webers are sensitive to too much fuel pressure.

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i can actually see the gas in the top of the carb.fuel pressure regulator is reading 3 psi.What makes the float sink? Do i need to replace it with a new float?

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well worked all of the gremlins out.truck is running good.i do need another vacuum advance.this one isn't holding thaat well.Can't seem to find a new one anywhere.No one even has a listing.I did find one for a 81 datsun 210 that has the a14 engine i believe.Will this one work with my distributor?By the way the one i found to fit the 210 is new.

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Inspect hoses for cracks.  Most likely thing. The vacuum advance also goes to the Thermal Vacuum Valve  and the Vacuum Control Valve so there are lots to check for leaks or replace them

 

Remove distributor cap so you can watch rotor turn. Pull hose off  metal line to carb and suck on end hard and put tongue over end to hold vacuum. Rotor should turn an inch of so and hold till you release it. If it moves and holds... vacuum advance is ok.

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Must be leaking then. Vacuum advance adds ignition timing under part throttle. Less throttle more advance. Heavy throttle less advance.

 

The 210 and the L series distributors are virtually the same. The 210 is driven by a gear on the bottom is all. If you can get the whole distributor, get it for a spare. The gear cam be removed and easily enough converted to work on your L20B

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why does my truck perform better with the vacuum advance capped off? As soon as i plug it up it runs rough. doesn't take gas to good under acceleration?

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Timing.

 

If vacuum advance is connected timing should be set at 120. With it disconnected someone may have advanced it. 

 

Vacuum advance is needed for part throttle driving only.

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With vacuum advance disconnected what should timing be set on? This is a ka24e motor with a lb20 distributor. I don’t know if this makes a difference.

Edited by nissan720
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Single plug head and 8.5 compression I would try 12 degrees and go from there. If it pings under heavy load back it down till it goes away.

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where can you buy a new breaker plate for a lb20 matchbox distributor? Also how can u test a matchbox pickup coil?

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You will have to find one on another matchbox, no one makes them. Try a Nissan dealer ($60) but very unlikely. Maybe someone has one that's for parts... https://ratsun.net/classifieds/category/9-datsun-parts/

 

Use an ohm meter. If it reads some resistance then there is continuity and should work. Make sure you disconnect it from the module first.

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found a distributor out of a 1980 datsun 200sx.the breaker plate was broken.Is it possible to use an electronic distributor out of a later model .for example out of a 90 model ka24. i don't know if there's a vacuum advance or electronic advance.just asking in case i ever have to replace the distributor in the future.right now truck is running really good.

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The KA uses a CAS (crank angle sensor) and the EFI generates a spark signal, so no, won't work. In fact the '85 720 was pretty much the last actual distributor used.

 

I don't think anyone has tried this but a Z series distributor should work. It will have provision for two coils, just use one and it has 8 plug wires, just use four. It has the EI module inside under the rotor and will work on your EI coil. It may look a little goofy but you can't see it driving around.

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