bilzbobaggins Posted September 26, 2019 Report Share Posted September 26, 2019 Ive had this motor in storage for years. It was in a 620 and I never could get it to run right. It would start and half ass idle and really couldnt rev. Tried verified good carb and distributor. Had to strip the truck down. Fast forward to last night, and I was in my garage looking for some parts to help out someone on here. I destroyed my mess of a garage looking, so I stopped looking and started cleaning. I finally got enough room to spin this old motor around pop the top. None of the valves seem tight at all. But I am fairly certain the distributor drive is off. Not at the right spot. Snapped these four shots with my phone so the quality is not that great. To sum it up, what looks correct and what isnt passing the stink test? I tired searching and a lot of threads that seemed promising have the fuckbucket fail stamp on them. Also, do you go off of the outer 1,2,3 numbers or the ones that are around the center of the cam gear? Chain says made in Japan, cant find a stamp on the gear. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 26, 2019 Report Share Posted September 26, 2019 This looks like a notch directly under the 0 on the timing scale so TDC (keep in mind there are 2 TDCs on a four stroke engine) This confirms that the engine is at TDC on the compression stroke. TDC on the compression stroke the distributor drive spindle above should be positioned at 11:28 and it is. Note there are two half moons. The smaller ons should be on the left, and it is. Someone set it correctly before storage. I see from the last picture that this is an L20B engine. Quote Link to comment
bilzbobaggins Posted September 26, 2019 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2019 Yes, l20b. Thanks for the intel. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted September 26, 2019 Report Share Posted September 26, 2019 motor looks timed to me. the intake will be in about 10 o clock position and the exhaust in 2 oclock. that is a timming motor. now hopefull you put the distributor and matching pedestal(mount ) and then the rotor shpuld be in the center of the timming slot where you bolt the 10mm. but remember you have some leeway under neath with the 8mm and can recenter that timming plate Quote Link to comment
bilzbobaggins Posted September 26, 2019 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2019 I have got a better picture of the cam gear. I know there are crappy and good cam gears. I know the l20b should be on the two hole. Look at this pic. This cam gear has a 1,2,3 around the outside near the teeth, and a 1,2,3 around the middle where it bolts. Which set of numbers do you use?? If its the inner set, this is set at 1 There is a 1 at the top and 3 at the bottom under the edges of the eccentric. I should have snapped a pic of the cam as well. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 26, 2019 Report Share Posted September 26, 2019 Generally the L20B comes from the factory on the #2 hole BUT no matter what, get the V notch under or just to the right of the little line above it on the cam thrust plate behind it. Both the above are perfectly timed. Don't worry what hole you use as long as you get it like this picture. Quote Link to comment
bilzbobaggins Posted September 26, 2019 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2019 K just making sure. I was really hoping this was going to be a regasket and run motor. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 26, 2019 Report Share Posted September 26, 2019 Block the timing chain properly and yank the head off. Maybe the valve seats are shit. Quote Link to comment
bilzbobaggins Posted September 26, 2019 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2019 Ive got the tool. Just not sure I want to put any loot in a w58 head. But ive only got a a87 of unknown issues(dont think the cam and or towers came from it, I bought it years ago before I knew this could be an issue) and a 210. So its the best in the barn for now. I Quote Link to comment
distributorguy Posted October 2, 2019 Report Share Posted October 2, 2019 From my experience, the cam towers are not machined for a specific head, or on a specific head, so you can switch them around with no ill effects. Use the best ones you have - cam towers, rocker arms, etc... If you can put compressed air into your cylinders while at TDC firing stroke, you can listen for bad valve seats or piston rings via air escaping where it shouldn't. You don't have to do it with a leak-down gauge set, but it would gauge how bad an existing problem is. Don't just yank the head or diagnosing problems is harder. If you want to verify timing, there is an alignment dot on the oil pump housing and on the distributor drive gear that will come out with it, to go along with all the other steps you've already taken. Quote Link to comment
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