TimmyG Posted August 24, 2019 Report Share Posted August 24, 2019 This clutch seems like maybe someone was riding the clutch...oh and I dropped the friction disk on the garage floor. Dammit. Do you think this chip will cause any noticeable vibration? Overall would you use this clutch or replace it? Quote Link to comment
TimmyG Posted August 24, 2019 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2019 Also, the throw out bearing is noisy as helllllll. So yeah. It's toast along with the pilot. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted August 24, 2019 Report Share Posted August 24, 2019 The clutch disc isn't so bad, but that clutch cover is toast, this likely happened because of a throw out bearing issue, since you need to replace the clutch cover and throw out bearing just replace the disc also and save that one in case you need one in the future, that is what I would do. 1 Quote Link to comment
TimmyG Posted August 24, 2019 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2019 Just now, wayno said: The clutch disc isn't so bad, but that clutch cover is toast, this likely happened because of a throw out bearing issue, since you need to replace the clutch cover and throw out bearing just replace the disc also and save that one in case you need one in the future, that is what I would do. Yeah... explains why so many metal shavings on the trans drain plug, too. Lol 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted August 24, 2019 Report Share Posted August 24, 2019 The transmission is a different story, there can be a lot of different reasons to find metal shavings on the magnet, if the transmission oil was mostly amber colored then your likely just fine, if it is any other color then you need to figure out why, if it's a black color I would likely change out the oil if the transmission didn't make any sort of noise, if it is brown or silver colored I would likely take the front case off and look at everything, but that is something I have done so many times that I have lost count, it's not that hard to take the front case off, here is a link to a how to I wrote about this subject. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 24, 2019 Report Share Posted August 24, 2019 The throw out or release bearing is $20 and should ALWAYS be replaced if the transmission is out. If this was an easy to get at thing like a fan belt, who cares. This is a major pain in the ass to take out again in two months for a $20 part. For the same reason, a WallMart special $6 bearing should also be avoided. The pilot bushing is under $5 so do it also... do NOT grease the pilot, it is perm lubed when made. Lube will attract friction dust from the clutch and grind it away. The rear seal where the drive shaft fits in, is $5 and worth replacing while transmission is out. Grease the seal lips so it doesn't start dry. If you have never changed the transmission oil, don't know the last time it was changed or it's been over 30K, now should be the time for this no matter what color it is. GL-4 80w90 two liters. When you can't get any more oil in the filler hole..... it's full. I wouldn't re use the disc. It's not that it's missing material but that the internal damage could be worse. Again a pain in the ass to remove the transmission again in 6 months. Clutch and PP with new release bearing, new oil, pilot and rear seal and other than replacing the oil in 30K you should be good for 90-100K 1 2 Quote Link to comment
TimmyG Posted August 24, 2019 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2019 29 minutes ago, wayno said: The transmission is a different story, there can be a lot of different reasons to find metal shavings on the magnet, if the transmission oil was mostly amber colored then your likely just fine, if it is any other color then you need to figure out why, if it's a black color I would likely change out the oil if the transmission didn't make any sort of noise, if it is brown or silver colored I would likely take the front case off and look at everything, but that is something I have done so many times that I have lost count, it's not that hard to take the front case off, here is a link to a how to I wrote about this subject. The first of the trans fluid that drained out was definitely dark and metallic looking then the rest was amber. When mixed in the drain pan it looked like it was swirled with metallic gray paint. I also see that the back half of my trans is covered in black, grimy oil from the top down. Doesn't appear to have been leaking from the engine since the bell housing is much less oily. Quote Link to comment
TimmyG Posted August 24, 2019 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2019 9 minutes ago, datzenmike said: The throw out or release bearing is $20 and should ALWAYS be replaced if the transmission is out. If this was an easy to get at thing like a fan belt, who cares. This is a major pain in the ass to take out again in two months for a $20 part. For the same reason, a WallMart special $6 bearing should also be avoided. The pilot bushing is under $5 so do it also... do NOT grease the pilot, it is perm lubed when made. Lube will attract friction dust from the clutch and grind it away. The rear seal where the drive shaft fits in, is $5 and worth replacing while transmission is out. Grease the seal lips so it doesn't start dry. If you have never changed the transmission oil, don't know the last time it was changed or it's been over 30K, now should be the time for this no matter what color it is. GL-4 80w90 two liters. When you can't get any more oil in the filler hole..... it's full. I wouldn't re use the disc. It's not that it's missing material but that the internal damage could be worse. Again a pain in the ass to remove the transmission again in 6 months. Clutch and PP with new release bearing, new oil, pilot and rear seal and other than replacing the oil in 30K you should be good for 90-100K I completely agree with this advice. Thank you. What are your thoughts on my greasy trans case posted just now? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 24, 2019 Report Share Posted August 24, 2019 Fits Z series engine, 71B (5 speed) made after '79, (has reverse check sleeve) has neutral emissions switch so '81-'86.5 720 and not for an EFI car. Rear seal needs replacing. 1 Quote Link to comment
TimmyG Posted August 24, 2019 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2019 21 minutes ago, datzenmike said: Fits Z series engine, 71B (5 speed) made after '79, (has reverse check sleeve) has neutral emissions switch so '81-'86.5 720 and not for an EFI car. Rear seal needs replacing. Lol, thanks for the technical rundown. What the heck is a neutral emissions switch, anyway? I sort of just meant why is there so much oil on this damn thing... And what exactly is the rear seal? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 24, 2019 Report Share Posted August 24, 2019 The neutral switch tells the emissions system to deactivate the fuel shut off during shifting or coasting in neutral to prevent stalling. A clutch switch is also used. Oil is oil probably seeping past the rear seal where the drive shaft spline fits into the transmission. The seal acts like a windshield wiper preventing oil from dripping out the back. Quote Link to comment
TimmyG Posted August 24, 2019 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2019 6 minutes ago, datzenmike said: The neutral switch tells the emissions system to deactivate the fuel shut off during shifting or coasting in neutral to prevent stalling. A clutch switch is also used. Oil is oil probably seeping past the rear seal where the drive shaft spline fits into the transmission. The seal acts like a windshield wiper preventing oil from dripping out the back. Oh yeah, I guess I could see how this would sling oil everywhere, even on top of the back half of the trans. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 24, 2019 Report Share Posted August 24, 2019 Oil is funny it 'creeps' up hill even. Doesn't have to be sprayed it just doesn't exactly run down hill like water. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted August 25, 2019 Report Share Posted August 25, 2019 I would remove all of the switches, and all of the plungers to re-seal them with either new copper washers, or a thin sealant like Threebond 1211. Be careful when removing the plungers as they retain springs and detent balls. Don't lose them or get them mixed up. If you want to stiffen up the shifting a bit, you can also shim them up with small diameter washers. The breather at the top of the tailhousing is obviously a potential cause of leaks. As Mike said, oil can flow up and get out the breather. On most vehicles I build here in the shop, I remove the breathers and tap the hole, then run a hose up to a remotely mounted breather (Toyota has 1/8", 5/16" and 3/8" nipple breathers available and I can give you part numbers if needed), but this is next level stuff that you really don't need. I do it to limit the oil puke syndrome and also to keep water out of the vitals. The pin and clip on the top of the tailhousing (near the shifter) can also be a leak spot. Remove it, clean it, reassemble it with 1211 and it should be fine for a long time. Another leak spot that is a bitch to repair is the o-ring seal inside the shifter tower. Repairing this requires transmission disassembly. Quote Link to comment
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