Quality water pump?

[Trackside]

I bought my 1980 720 4x4 about 15k miles ago(at 35k). After about 125 miles into my trip home from buying it in San Diego, the water pump started leaking, and I had it replaced at a Pep Boys. 

Now the fan has started wobbling. I don't know anything about buying parts, and I'm wondering what my options are (have not called stores/dealerships yet), price vs. Quality, etc.

Any advice would be appreciated!

[banzai510(hainz)]

Atsugi is the best But getting harder to source. Also sold under the Paraut brand. or something like that.

 

I had OK luck with Japan GMB brand.

 

I suggest NO Chinese made stuff if possible.

[datzenmike]

The clutch for the fan and the water pump are integral so can't be replaced separately. Pep boys = cheap knock off crap. As Hainz suggests get 'Made In Japan' if at all possible. Expect to pay more for something that lasts. Even a used original Nissan pump is a better risk that a new from China one.

[Trackside]

Before reading posts on this site, I didn't even think I had multiple options for new parts. I just figured if you could find anything new, it was better than pulling a used part (depending on part type). I have access to used parts, but getting that radiator on and off is tough, so I don't want to have to replace it anytime soon.

Thanks for the recommendations!

[bottomwatcher]

I wouldn't put a used water pump in. A new quality Japanese isn't that expensive. Time labor and coolant to only have a part that could leak at any minute doesn't make any sense. New Japanese and should have at least 75k trouble free miles from it. I put a new Japanese in my ka last year, different pump no fan clutch but about $60 

[Chopper Jim]

Napa shows them available new. Everything I have has a Napa water pump on it. And no, I don't work at Napa.

 

Chopper Jim

[datzenmike]

11 hours ago, datzenmike said:

 Even a used original Nissan pump is a better risk that a new from China one.

 

Not suggesting you get used ones although you can. Saying a used original one is better than the cheap new ones. An original clutch fan/water pump from the dealer is $130 a $32 one won't do.

[Trackside]

Thanks again. I ended up with a GMB from Japan. Everything was easier to put back together than it was to take apart! Running smoothly now, but I still have to figure out the front end play. Just replaced sway bar spindle assemblies; hopefully that will help.

[datzenmike]

Handling? Maybe soft worn out shocks. Nothing improves the ride back to new like new shocks all round. Lessens sway and that feeling of top heavy tipping over going around tight turns. New sway bar bushings won't hurt.

 

Steering? Back and forth play in the steering wheel is the sum total of all the wear in the steering ball joints, wheel bearings, idler arm and the steering box. Bad upper and lower control arm ballpoints can also contribute to this. Raise both wheels off the ground and have someone wiggle the steering wheel back and forth in the 'play' area while you watch the steering components. The idler arm should turn only and mimic the pitman arm. There should be no up or down movement just turn. If you can wiggle a ball joint it's most likely bad. You shouldn't be able to feel any play in them. The wheel bearing can also wear (but not worn out) so have the pre load checked and adjusted. Grip the tires at 9 and 3 with hands and push in and pull back and forth. Now try 12 and 6. There should be no looseness.

 

Steering box adjustment. Most wear will be in the middle straight ahead position so if you adjust all the plat out it may bind when making a turn. The adjustment screw is on the top of the box and has a not to secure the setting. Loosen and turn the screw clockwise while someone quickly turns L and R quickly, looking for sudden tight spots. Continue until there is a definite snugness in the wheel. Now back off until it is completely smooth and without any binding.Tighten the nut while holding the adjustment screw or it will turn, an re-check. 

 

Good suspension bushings and ball joints and a good alignment after replacement will fix this.