my 1974 dats

[demo243]

18 minutes ago, marines2060 said:

Definitely takes some time figuring out which goes where, trial and error. Hard part for me was upgrading wiring with upgraded electrical things (headlights/alternator ECT.) With old switches...

 

It took some small modifying the inside of the column switch for it to have a good fit. And I can help with the wiring part of what color does what if you need it. 

 

Do you have an upgraded alternator on either? I had my charging wires swapped and my battery drained enough for me to fix that. Could be some of that. 

 

 

Good luck with all of the wiring!

 

 

 

Both have KAs in them so updated to the KA alternator.

 

Thanks! Ill order up one of the switches an see how it goes...

[marines2060]

Got some more done this weekend. Got almost everything wired inside the cab other than some small things (dome light, maybe some accessory lights) cleaned up the back of the cluster wiring with some conduit. Need to still clean up the wiring by the fuse box, but now it doesnt look too much like a bomb of wires exploded in the cab. Installed a new steering wheel and got the horn wired up.

 

Also fitted and got the headlights wired up. I have some output shots of them below. Only got to one side, i will have to modify the battery tray to fit the passenger side headlight. 

 

Almost there with the wiring.

 

 

 

[demo243]

On 11/25/2019 at 8:42 PM, marines2060 said:

 

It took some small modifying the inside of the column switch for it to have a good fit. And I can help with the wiring part of what color does what if you need it. 

 

 

Picked up a new turn signal switch off ebay. Do you recall which colors went to what? 

Here is the pigtail coming off of mine -

20191201_132451 by devon M, on Flickr

 

[marines2060]

On 12/8/2019 at 2:26 PM, demo243 said:

 

Picked up a new turn signal switch off ebay. Do you recall which colors went to what? 

Here is the pigtail coming off of mine -

20191201_132451 by devon M, on Flickr

 

 Power to the switch is BLK/WT left turn is G/Blu right turn is G/Yel horn is BLK/pink high beam PWR is Pink/WT high beam switch is Pink/Yel.

[demo243]

10 minutes ago, marines2060 said:

 Power to the switch is BLK/WT left turn is G/Blu right turn is G/Yel horn is BLK/pink high beam PWR is Pink/WT high beam switch is Pink/Yel.

Thanks!

[marines2060]

as i finish up the wiring inside the cab, i start the truck up every now and then to warm things up. I am having trouble with the motor running as strong as it did before i replaced a lot of things. When i do get it started, it idles OK and i can rev it to about 1000rpm and anything after that it boggs down. When im in the engine bay and rev the engine the carb sounds like it sucking in a good amount of air but the engine seems like its almost going to die. I have a new weber 32/36 carb on it right now. I set the idle mixture to what the manual said and the idle screw seems like its in the right spot.

 

I have attempted to set the timing a few times but i dont think i have it exactly right. I get the truck warmed up, disconnect the vacuum advance and plug both the carb and the hose i disconnected. I set the timing light to 0 and When i am looking at setting the timing i cant get it down to the 12 deg. it is asking for, its around 20ish deg. Am i missing something in the steps? I know to set timing first and then go to the carb. Does the idle have to be around a certain RPM when i am setting the timing? I have replaced the points and double checked that the gap is correct. 

 

Im guessing the main problem is due to the carb not being set up the right way for the truck, any more checks or info i can get to you guys? 

 

thanks

 

 

[Crashtd420]

On the distributor have you had it off or the oil pump and spindle out lately?

 

From what your describing sounds like you are running out of adjustment....

You may have to drop the oil spindle and rotate it 1 or 2 teeth.... 

[marines2060]

8 hours ago, Crashtd420 said:

On the distributor have you had it off or the oil pump and spindle out lately?

 

From what your describing sounds like you are running out of adjustment....

You may have to drop the oil spindle and rotate it 1 or 2 teeth.... 

I have not had it off at all just popped the cap off to change the points.

 

It ran strong before I did all of the changes. Wiring/carb/plugs/coil wires. So I'm guessing it's something that I swapped and isn't working the way it is suppose to be. 

[datzenmike]

Was one of those changes a carburetor? Put the old one back on to confirm.

[marines2060]

39 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

Was one of those changes a carburetor? Put the old one back on to confirm.

Yup, that was one of the changes. Unfortunately my old carb got donated to a co-worker who needed it. 

[marines2060]

Hey all, Moving a little slower on the build due to moving house soon. I have been playing around with trying to set the timing right and finally got it down to around 12 deg. The idle is pretty good, smooth. When i rev it more it is still really bad like it was before. once it hits 1000+RPMs the engine really shakes and sounds like its about to die. Im stuck on why it would be acting like that. 

 

When i double checked inside the cap at the distributor again, i checked the points gap and checked to see if the mechanical advance springs were free. I got a vacuum gauge to see if the vacuum advance is working and it is. 

 

I checked when the engine is at TDC the rotor on the distributor is pointing at cylinder 4, is that suppose to be correct?

[datzenmike]

There are two TDCs on a four cycle engine. One at top of compression stroke and one at top of exhaust stroke. On the number one cylinder check that the two valves are closed and the cam lobes at roughly 2 and 10 o'clock. Then look at the rotor and it will be pointing at number one cylinder.

 

Most common mistake is wrong firing order. It goes counter clockwise 1,3,4,2. This would make 2 and 3 reversed and engine running on two cylinders.

[banzai510(hainz)]

https://ratsun.net/messenger/129002/?tab=comments#comment-501758

 

 

watch this to to TDC and figure you our distributor.

To me your off a tooth or a plugged main jet in carb .

But you changed things  maybe the condenser is not grounded if you still have points or loose wire.  sooner you go electric the sooner you can eliminate this on future proplems

 

 

yes 1 3 4 2 CCW fire order as mentioned above

Edited January 30, 2020 by banzai510(hainz)

[marines2060]

8 hours ago, datzenmike said:

There are two TDCs on a four cycle engine. One at top of compression stroke and one at top of exhaust stroke. On the number one cylinder check that the two valves are closed and the cam lobes at roughly 2 and 10 o'clock. Then look at the rotor and it will be pointing at number one cylinder.

 

Most common mistake is wrong firing order. It goes counter clockwise 1,3,4,2. This would make 2 and 3 reversed and engine running on two cylinders.

Thanks Mike for the info. I have the right TDC here on the compression stroke and my rotor is no where close to cylinder 1. I didn't check the valves but I put my finger over cylinder 1 for compression. 

 

[marines2060]

6 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

https://ratsun.net/messenger/129002/?tab=comments#comment-501758

 

 

watch this to to TDC and figure you our distributor.

To me your off a tooth or a plugged main jet in carb .

But you changed things  maybe the condenser is not grounded if you still have points or loose wire.  sooner you go electric the sooner you can eliminate this on future proplems

 

 

yes 1 3 4 2 CCW fire order as mentioned above

Thanks for the info hainz, when I click that link I don't have access to it see it. 

 

[marines2060]

This is what I'm looking at with the cover off.

 

 

 

 

[datzenmike]

 

 

Looks WAY off on the oil pump/distributor drive spindle.

 

Remove the two 10mm bolts that hold the distributor to the timing cover and lift it out. Unbolt the oil pump and drop it out along with the drive spindle.

 

 

 

Assemble the spindle into the oil pump as shown just above, and install into the engine so that you have this..... (below) Note that there is a small and large half moon.

 

[banzai510(hainz)]

you cam TIMING is fine.

your distributor spindle is off look like a tooth.  look at mikes photo.

 

ez way to tell is put the dist back in and set it to the center of the timing plate and see where the rorotr points. if its off and you then rotate the dist to line it up then run out of adjustment then that's the proplem.

[banzai510(hainz)]

part 6

 

 

[datzenmike]

38 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

you cam TIMING is fine.

your distributor spindle is off look like a tooth.  look at mikes photo.

 

 

 

 

Look where the small moon is!!!

[marines2060]

18 hours ago, datzenmike said:

 

 

Looks WAY off on the oil pump/distributor drive spindle.

 

Remove the two 10mm bolts that hold the distributor to the timing cover and lift it out. Unbolt the oil pump and drop it out along with the drive spindle.

 

 

 

Assemble the spindle into the oil pump as shown just above, and install into the engine so that you have this..... (below) Note that there is a small and large half moon.

 

Got this to the point where it looks like your picture. But still at TDC withiutovimg anything. This is what my rotor looks like. It's still not pointing to #1. 

 

 

 

[datzenmike]

Put the cap on the distributor and the closest wire above the end of the rotor is now the #1, then change all the others around counter clockwise 2, 3, 4.

[marines2060]

On 1/31/2020 at 1:54 PM, datzenmike said:

Put the cap on the distributor and the closest wire above the end of the rotor is now the #1, then change all the others around counter clockwise 2, 3, 4.

Hey Mike, its been awhile since i moved that i got to work on the truck, i did this and still no running. I double checked everything and im still stumped on why its not even trying to start. It just cranks over, no hints on starting. I double checked the TDC and the rotor pointing where it was i put the number one plug on the closest post on the cap. then 1,3,4,2 CCW. I checked and i have spark. I did get a new electronic distributor from hot spark, and verified it works.

 

I can see in my fuel filter that the gas is turning more towards orange than light yellow, it sat for a couple months while i was moving. Not sure on what to double check.

 

thanks for all the help through this.

[marines2060]

little update, its been awhile! with the SIP i got to do some other projects for the truck. I got ahold of some older datsun 280z seats awhile back and decided i would recover them. so i ordered some samples and settled on a nice brown. Ordered them up and also ordered replacement foam top and bottom. Recovered the seats and painted the parts where the previous owner over sprayed red. 

 

Worked on the passenger side floor boards, had some rust that the previous owner just glued and spot welded a square piece of sheet metal over. Cut out, welded in, clean and prepped the metal for por-15 seal sealer. also made some brackets and a riser for accmodate the new seats. Just need to fix the drivers side floor board rust issues, and mirror the seat brackets. 

 

Bought a carpet kit and some POR-15 for the floor after im all done with welding. 

 

pics...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[banzai510(hainz)]

if you have spark  and is timmed

then check the valve lash and have gas going in the carb.

it should start unless the HOt start wire not hooked up