datzenmike Posted February 25, 2019 Report Share Posted February 25, 2019 Yes, spring compressed by the ball. Tightly, I had a bitch of a time assembling it. Was worried I could get it together or not. Quote Link to comment
oukippy Posted February 25, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2019 Last question and I stop boring you : I measured the hole to 0.155 in or 3.91 mm. Is it 5/32 in ? I'm lost without my metric system... ? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 25, 2019 Report Share Posted February 25, 2019 Never bored. I can get frustrated if I'm not clear or I'm not understood and that could be my fault. Mon dieu!! Sacrilège!! Incroyable!!! to use inches when in France... the birthplace of the metric system.. 0.155" is 3.937mm 3/32" is 0.1562... which is close. The '77 620 should all be metric fasteners. Quote Link to comment
oukippy Posted February 25, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2019 32 minutes ago, datzenmike said: Never bored. I can get frustrated if I'm not clear or I'm not understood and that could be my fault. Mon dieu!! Sacrilège!! Incroyable!!! to use inches when in France... the birthplace of the metric system.. 0.155" is 3.937mm 3/32" is 0.1562... which is close. The '77 620 should all be metric fasteners. lol I use inches when the sellers use it ! I don't understand why we have different system and of course our is the best ?. It's a bigger problem when I'm not sure if I should consider metric or non metric system. Recently I learned how was established the Farenheit system. Excuse my French but who's the crazy son of a beeeepppp who decided to take horse blood to calibrate a scale ??? Furthermore, don't worry, I understood your explanations. I was just thinking you had fully dissassembled it like dat521gatherer in his topic. I tried to send him a private message but no answer. Now I'll try to buy different bearing ball size. Very funny when you have to buy hundreds while you only need one ! Quote Link to comment
oukippy Posted February 25, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2019 I made some tries and now I understand how it works. The ball is pushing the brass part left or right around an internal axle. In position one, there is no contact. On position 2, there is a contact. Beams are changing depending of the brass part touching or not. I tried to explain on a picture if it could help someone one day: Mike, you're right, the roll pin substitution by the screw is not good at all. too much moving parts. I'll try to add a bearing ball to be sure but I don't think it will be enough. Starting to think I should buy a new one. Except that none of them have same connectors as mine on eBay... Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 25, 2019 Report Share Posted February 25, 2019 On 2/23/2019 at 10:31 AM, datzenmike said: I bet it's very similar. There were 3 different turn signal switches used during the 620 run with different plugs and number of wires. Up to December '72. Jan '73 through July '77 and Aug '77 ('78 model year) and on build dates This is probably why. Quote Link to comment
oukippy Posted February 25, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2019 Question is : is it possible to modify one to fit my car ? this one is good but I don't want to spend that much money: https://www.ebay.fr/itm/Datsun-69-73-510-Wagon-73-77-620-RESTORED-Turn-Signal-Switch Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 25, 2019 Report Share Posted February 25, 2019 I doubt it, the '75-'77 has 7 wires including the horn, earlier ones have 8, but the switch part might swap into yours. Quote Link to comment
oukippy Posted February 25, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2019 1 minute ago, datzenmike said: I doubt it, the '75-'77 has 7 wires including the horn, earlier ones have 8, but the switch part might swap into yours. I gave a look at replacement parts but I don't understand which part should be swapped into mine. It seems to be a different system... https://www.ebay.com/itm/Blinker-Switch-Turn-Signal-Fit-71-77-Datsun-620-Nissan-J15-Pickup-Sunny-B110-UTE/302931913993 https://www.ebay.com/itm/STEERING-TURN-SIGNAL-SWITCH-FIT-FOR-DATSUN-620-TRUCK-PICKUP-SUNNY-B110-B120/161078171027 https://www.ebay.com/itm/FIT-DATSUN-NISSAN-1500-620-SUNNY-B110-UTE-COUPE-71-77-BLINKER-SWITCH-TURN-SIGNAL/112981278017 Quote Link to comment
oukippy Posted March 3, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2019 I recieved the balls. I tried to use one but I think the brass piece is not correctly inserted. It work one time but that was all... I think I have to unmount everything because it's impossible to work correctly in the car. Is it easy to remove the steering wheel? I read that I need to use a specific tool but I don't have one. I also read that's it's possible without it. Should I try with my bare hands? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 3, 2019 Report Share Posted March 3, 2019 What I did was loosen the nut but don't remove it. Strike upwards with the flats of your hands on the under side forcing it towards you. Turn your head to the side just in case. Others have suggested grabbing the outer wheel rim on opposite sides (across from each other) and push away on one and pull with the other alternating quickly. I've never used a puller yet and have taken dozens of wheels off. Quote Link to comment
oukippy Posted March 4, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2019 I'm happy to say I've probably solved my switch problem. I removed the steering wheel using Mike technique (keeping the nut as a safety instrument). It was relatively easy, except that one of the screws holding the horn button didn't want to be removed. Hopefully I had acess to the nut. It's not the classical way to do it but at least it worked : I put the brass part in the correct way around the axle then I replaced the missing ball using a 4 mm new one and it fit pretty well. As I didn't have the good roll pin, I used the screw which was already used by a previous owner and it does the job. Here is a little non-Hollywood video of the working switch : http://www.k-upload.fr/afficher-video-2019-03-04-16aac87a7after.mp4.html Quote Link to comment
oukippy Posted March 4, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2019 I still need to put everything back in the car but it will wait until tomorrow. I have a question concerning greasing the steering wheel before putting it in its place. Am I correct if I put grease on the following places ? I'll use some Bardahl copper grease. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 4, 2019 Report Share Posted March 4, 2019 I wouldn't 'grease' anything. The brass ring that the horn rides on should probably just be cleaned off. Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted March 4, 2019 Report Share Posted March 4, 2019 31 minutes ago, datzenmike said: I wouldn't 'grease' anything. The brass ring that the horn rides on should probably just be cleaned off. Could he use dielectric grease one the brass ring? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 4, 2019 Report Share Posted March 4, 2019 Probably ok but it will collect dust and dirt. Quote Link to comment
oukippy Posted March 5, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2019 8 hours ago, datzenmike said: Probably ok but it will collect dust and dirt. The Datsun service manual says to apply grease to sliding parts. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 5, 2019 Report Share Posted March 5, 2019 Except they only slide once when assembling them. They better not be sliding when driving... ? Oiling or grease on the horn ring will only collect hair and dust on it. Quote Link to comment
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