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Dirtyowlnumber4

Engine trouble eh

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The gasket I got was kind of papery and shitty, looked like the coolant had soaked through it. Just gonna replace it with red RTV. Hopefully don't have another issue but I'll keep an eye on the oil after I get the engine back together.

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You need good gaskets around the water jacket, buy another set of gaskets or make them if you have to.

I make gaskets all the time out of cereal boxes or other boxes of the same thickness as the stock gasket, they also sell gasket material at auto parts stores, I suspect you only want to do this one more time, I sure don't want to keep re-doing things I already have done because I got in a hurry and just had to get it back together now.

Just step back and get what you need to finish the job right, then finish it, you just rebuilt this engine, get the front on it properly and then before putting the rest of it back together(radiator, ect.) test fire it and make sure it runs, once it hits and starts, shut it down and finish putting it back together, I have run engines sitting in a frame for a couple minutes at an idle just to make sure they were good/didn't knock, then I pulled them to store them or sell them, as long as they have oil it will not hurt to see it run for 10/20 seconds.

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I have used Felpro and Victor Rains gasket sets in the past with no issues.  Got them out of Rock Auto. Also, these were used on "A" engines.

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Well I put the timing chain back on like the manual specified, I remarked the timing mark and got the distributor in the correct place, all the valve clearances are good and they are firing at the right time, I cleaned off the spark plugs and took the carb apart cleaned the jets and checked the float, fuel is pumping well, points are working all plugs are firing but it seems no closer to starting than it was before.

 

And I put it back together so I could let the gasket maker dry overnight because I was fairly confident it would work. Whoops.

 

A similar situation was developing the first time I was trying to start it a while ago, and buying a new carb helped, but the new carb still looks brand new inside. I am quite stumped.

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The guy at the shop told me to do a compression test as well to see if I broke any valves or if the piston rings I put in aren't making any compression

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Did you set up the cam gear and crank gear the way it was in the photos I scanned from my manual?

What Datsun manual are you using, maker and manual number please.

You actually don't even need a carb to fire an engine, one just pours a tiny amount of gas in the intake(teaspoon) and start it up, if it is back firing it's getting gas and will run if everything is set up correctly, I have started several engines over the years without the fuel pump, I fill the carb bowl full of gas, I turn the engine to TDC, I turn on the key, then I turn the distributor till the spark plug I got on number one wire sparks while the threads are grounded, I put the spark plug wire back onto number one plug, I then pour a small amount of gas down the carb, pull the choke on and I start it.

If anything is not right it will not start.

Does the engine turn over unevenly or very fast?

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New cap n wires....wether yours r new r not...get new GOOD QUALITY parts. Change out the points n condensor....better yet get an electronic ignition from a later model b210 or 210 (avoid the CA ones). Have the coil tested.

 

You had fire at the beginning n now u are going backwards. All of the stress you have put on the points will have for sure fried them. Also, make sure you do not have a massive vacuum leak.

 

From the start it fired n missed per revolution..bad plug wire or cap...being that u have inspected the valve gap.

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I might have a electronic ignition, but I do not have a box..PM me your address n I will send you the distributor for free.

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Did you set up the cam gear and crank gear the way it was in the photos I scanned from my manual?

What Datsun manual are you using, maker and manual number please.

 

Does the engine turn over unevenly or very fast?

I did. It is the Haynes manual.

 

The engine is firing, it will even run at 300rpm for a few seconds at full throttle but after a few backfires it knocks out.

 

New cap n wires....wether yours r new r not...get new GOOD QUALITY parts. Change out the points n condensor....better yet get an electronic ignition from a later model b210 or 210 (avoid the CA ones). Have the coil tested.

 

You had fire at the beginning n now u are going backwards. All of the stress you have put on the points will have for sure fried them. Also, make sure you do not have a massive vacuum leak.

 

From the start it fired n missed per revolution..bad plug wire or cap...being that u have inspected the valve gap.

 

I have looked at the distributor it would be great to have an electronic one for sure. The one I have is brand new, as well as the cap and the wires, and everything looks clean. I have checked all the plugs to make sure they are firing right.

 

My last theory was that perhaps the valves had gotten bent by the pistons when the cam was on wrong, but I just did a compression test and it was great. I figured that messed up valves would affect the compression, I could be wrong though I will have a look at them anyway. Besides that with a new carb, new ignition system and all new timing components besides the cam, I think I have ruled out everything I can think of.. I will keep tinkering with it for a while but I can't see any success coming out of that if I can't figure out what the problem is. Might just have to turn it in for the winter.

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Take number one spark plug out of the head, turn the crank till the mark/notch on the front pulley is at top dead center(0) like in the photo below of the pulley and the timing chain cover, I took another photo after I cleaned up the notch so it can be seen better, once it is at TDC stick a screwdriver in the #1 spark plug hole, is the piston at the top?

 

DSCN7488.jpg

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I did. It is the Haynes manual.

 

The engine is firing, it will even run at 300rpm for a few seconds at full throttle but after a few backfires it knocks out.

 

 

I have looked at the distributor it would be great to have an electronic one for sure. The one I have is brand new, as well as the cap and the wires, and everything looks clean. I have checked all the plugs to make sure they are firing right.

 

My last theory was that perhaps the valves had gotten bent by the pistons when the cam was on wrong, but I just did a compression test and it was great. I figured that messed up valves would affect the compression, I could be wrong though I will have a look at them anyway. Besides that with a new carb, new ignition system and all new timing components besides the cam, I think I have ruled out everything I can think of.. I will keep tinkering with it for a while but I can't see any success coming out of that if I can't figure out what the problem is. Might just have to turn it in for the winter.

 

Do you mind if I asked where you sourced the new Distributor and Carburetor?

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yup the pistons are in the right place at tdc. Don't know where the distributor came from I ordered it at oreilleys the carb I got off the internet 50 dollar sort of temporary deal. Not the greatest parts maybe but the engine was running smooth before I rebuilt it a few weeks ago. I might go ahead and buy a better carb like I had planned, but I don't know if that would fix it.. i will probably take it into the shop and see what they say.

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Pm me, you need to replace that distributor and carburetor before you go any further.  I have enough to spare you what you need.

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I saved up enough to buy a real redline carb, don't suppose that'll fix it but you never know. Unless I can pull something out, it'll be going into the shop on the 26th, ill let yall know what was wrong with it.

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Could be irrelevant but, check the pickup coil/magnet's dwell gap. I only mention this because I didn't notice it mentioned, earlier, in the thread.

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Could the valves be broken and the cylinder still retain compression?

 

I was thinking of taking the head off to look at the valves, but the compression is good. I figures if the valves were broken enough to stop the engine from working, they would not hold compression at all.

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I can't see how they could be broken and still work. The valves are shaped like the lid on a jack 'o lantern. Tapered so they seal the combustion pressures in.

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Cool I was thinking of taking the head off but its kind of a bitch to drain the radiator the way I've got it on I'll just wait and see what the shop says.

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