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fivetenguy

orange B110 coupe

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On the alternator bracket.......did you just elongate the existing holes or drill completely new ones? I am about to do this on both of my 1200s and it looks like I only need about 1/4 " to make it clear the pipe for the lower rad hose.

 

FWIW, this one bolts right on, only uses one wire, and is half the size/weight of the stock unit. 

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/MINI-ALTERNATOR-Fits-DENSO-STREET-ROD-RACE-1-WIRE-Small-One-Wire-NEW-70-Amp/282513310986?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649

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Duly noted. However, I have a couple alternators laying around the shop but no dollars laying around so I must use what I have. :thumbup:

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How hot does it get there in the summertime? Here in Texas those water pumps are a no-no. The stamped steel impeller just doesn't move enough water...

DF, I had to remove that pump because the holes for the fan did not line up. I ended up reinstalling the old pump. I don't remember if the old pump was a cast iron impeller or not, but the few times I drove it in the summer (90+) the temp gauge was solid at 1/4 way.

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On the alternator bracket.......did you just elongate the existing holes or drill completely new ones? I am about to do this on both of my 1200s and it looks like I only need about 1/4 " to make it clear the pipe for the lower rad hose.

 

Think I have had that water pump issue before also.  I thought it was a difference between A/C cars and non A/C, but I did the same thing and installed it and then realized it was wrong.

Kelmo, I redrilled the holes. Elongating would have taken too long to do that since I don't have a mill to do that. I drilled it to where the bolt and washer were just a hair below where the steel plate starts to bend inwards. Am I making any sense?

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A couple of weeks ago I washed the car and went out on a drive to test it after all the work I've done. No leaks of any kind. The 5spd trans is really smooth and no noise that I noticed.

 

The only issue was, I believe, related to the carb. I think it has a stock carb. When I come to a stop and try to take off, the car will hesitate for a split second and go. It will then be fine for the remainder of the 4 shifts. If I blip the accelerator before I take off from a stop, the car will leave without hesitation. I'm thinking one of the jets (partially clogged) or accelerator pump might have an issue? My question is, is it better to rebuild the old cab or to run a 32/36 DGV webber? I have a brand new one on the shelf.

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Yes, that made sense as I have looked at the bracket extensively so it makes sense to me.

 

I have an original Hitachi and a Weber on either one of my 1200's. My preference is the Weber. If I was smart enough to tune a carb, I am sure the Hitachi would be better MPG.

So there is my $.02 worth.

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My question is, is it better to rebuild the old cab or to run a 32/36 DGV webber? I have a brand new one on the shelf.

 

When functioning properly, the stock carb is fine. When it's not...

 

The Weber will have better throttle response at the expense of crappier mileage. But will most likely feel like an upgrade, especially if the stock carb is having issues. 

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And sorry if I missed this, but if you still have the stock distributor, change that first.

 

A lot of stumbling issues are more often the fault of the points dizzy, not the carb. 

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Yes, that made sense as I have looked at the bracket extensively so it makes sense to me.

Kelmo, I corrected the post regarding the bracket. I actually drilled the holes so that the bolt and washer were just a hair from where the bracket starts to bend inward. I will post a pic with a better close up so you can see it. I totally forgot to take a pic of the bracket before installing it.

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When functioning properly, the stock carb is fine. When it's not...

 

The Weber will have better throttle response at the expense of crappier mileage. But will most likely feel like an upgrade, especially if the stock carb is having issues.

That's what I had read at another forum, but wanted to check with you guys that have tried all the options to get your opinions and experiences. I would much rather run with the stock carb at this point.

 

 

And sorry if I missed this, but if you still have the stock distributor, change that first.

 

A lot of stumbling issues are more often the fault of the points dizzy, not the carb.

Thanks for the input. I grabbed the electric dizzy from the '80 210 donor car a couple of years ago. Maybe this week coming up I'll install it and let you guys know how it went.

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 I grabbed the electric dizzy from the '80 210 donor car a couple of years ago. Maybe this week coming up I'll install it and let you guys know how it went.

 

Please do.  :thumbup:

 

Also a good time to upgrade the coil. The matchbox dizzy will burn out the stock coil eventually, usually 6 months to a year. 

 

We use these, and remove/bypass the ballast resistor. 

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/msd-82023

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Thanks for the tip, DF. I forgot to mention that I also bought an MSD blaster 2 from a fellow member about a year ago. Hopefully I'll get this done next week.

 

This last week I worked on getting the front vent window gaskets on. Not too hard to do, but there is a mod you have to do to the shaft if you're using the ones from Datsport. Baz told me about the mod right after I installed them LOL. If the mod is not done, the glass and frame will sit too high.

 

Here are the before pics. The seals were hard and falling apart so I decided to get them done since I've been sitting on the seals for almost two years.

 

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Unfortunately, Datsport does not supply the gasket that holds the vent glass on the stainless steel frame. Baz gave me the idea of using a bike inner tube. With the combination of the tube and some silicon, it held the glass ok. As for the mod that Baz told me about, you have to grind the notches on both side of the rod about 5mm up towards the frame to drop the frame that amount. Simple mod using a file or grinder. Finished it off by greasing the areas where there was metal to metal contact to minimize wear.

 

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overall length after the mod.

 

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On the alternator bracket.......did you just elongate the existing holes or drill completely new ones? I am about to do this on both of my 1200s and it looks like I only need about 1/4 " to make it clear the pipe for the lower rad hose.

Kelmo, here is a closer look on the lower bracket for the alternator. The pic is not the greatest, but I came as close to the top of the bracket as I could. The split lock washer was almost touching where the bracket started to curve.

 

eWhkvvB.png

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Dig that, thanks man.

 

Just finished my last wing window seal last week. Searched all over the shop for an inner tube as I had the same idea.  Instead I used some tool box drawer liner from HF tools.

What was left of the gasket that was originally in that "tray" was about 1.5mm.  The liner was just a bit thicker and kind of a foam rubber (?) material. I cut a bottom piece and the 2 side pieces, slid the glass into the tray...worked well, I think. I did not use any glue incase I need to go back and use an inner tube.

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Kelmo, did you install new wing window seals? If so, who did you buy them from?

 

I installed mine a few weeks ago. Overall, I think it came out ok.

 

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One thing that was really bugging me about my car was the interior. I like to have clean, comfortable interiors. Mine was in real poor shape, especially the seats and door cards. I had a hell of a time trying to find a decent set of door cards without spending and arm and a leg. There were two leads at one point and both were asking, what I thought, was way too much (250 plus shipping) for the condition they were in. When I agreed to buy them, they both flaked out. In a way it was a good thing as I would have probably bought something that I was not going to be happy with. With that being said, I bought the skins for the front doors from Ebay. Paid a bunch for them, but they appeared to be a good quality product.

 

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I traced out the one decent door card I had on a board and cut it out. Then lined up the top metal frame and drilled out the holes so I could put the staples back to hold it in place. It wasn't too hard getting the staples back in after dripping it to the right size.

 

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So a little late with the reply but.....The vent wing seals I got through Nissan when I worked at a dealership....maybe 10 years ago. I thin they were the last ones in captivity.

 

You must have the higher trim line car, your door panels look like the go all the way up to the window.

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Actually, you didn't reply late :). I asked you about the wing gaskets today. Good deal that you got OEM.

 

Did coupes came with different door panels than the type I have? I've only seen the high type.

 

Another thing I did during the wing gasket install, was install new window felt. Mine was pretty much all gone. One roll easily does both doors. Sorry about the crappy pics...

 

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Is that channel felt still available from Nissan?

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It's still available and it has gone up in price every time I've bought it. You can't beat the quality and fitment of this felt. It's worth every penny, in my opinion.

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You must have the higher trim line car, your door panels look like the go all the way up to the window.

 

I believe all US coupes had panels that went all the way up. I think all of the sedans used the one that stops short like a 510. 

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Pretty sure both of my coupes stopped short of the top of the door. However, it was a long, long time ago when they were removed so I could very well be wrong.  I do remember the green car had some home made door cards but if they went all the way to the window I don't remember.  They are in a box somewhere in the shop, but I ain't gonna go looking. B)

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Hey DF, I thought you posted somewhere that you had a How To Install center console procedure? I want to get that thing installed this week coming up and I want to do it right. :)

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Finished off the front door panels. Cut and glued the skins on. It was a little nerve wracking since I've never done it before and I didn't want to cut it where it shouldn't. I also used the lock sills from a 510. Just had to drill out the old sill and widen the hole a bit to accept the plastic sill. I think they look a lot better than the metal ones they originally come with. Before installing the door panels, I sealed off the door using some thick plastic sheet. Trimmed off the plastic sheet before applying the panel.

 

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