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orange B110 coupe


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I think I'm going to go with the Federals. They are about $120 less than the Yoko's and I've read too many mixed reviews with the Yoko's. If I'm going to pay around $360 for a 14" tire I expect it to be pretty good. I've ran the Falkens on my VW and am very pleased with the grip and life and not to mention the price for a full set (under $200 shipped).


Should be getting the heater valve and some hoses from Japan this week. I should start on the floors (cut and weld behind the passenger seat) pretty soon after replacing the valve. That has been holding me back because I don't want anymore coolant on the floors.

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Got the heater valve and a couple of hoses from Bproject in Japan on Wednesday. Only took a week to get the parts. Not bad. Also, ordered the Federals yesterday. Should be here by Wednesday. Hopefully these new tires will be small enough to clear the fenders when turning.



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Not much happened this week. Installed the heater valve and hoses. Charged the battery for a while and turned the car on for about 20min so the water would circulate so I could check for leaks. Now that the heater portion or the car is done, I can start on the floor repair this weekend coming up. Also, the new tires should show up tomorrow.



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Nothing exciting this week. Repaired the rust and cancer issues and started putting the sound deadening on the floors. Getting tired of working on this car. I want to drive it already :devil:

This weekend I'm going to try and get one of the 185 tires mounted and test fit them on the front to see if they're going to work.

Behind the passenger side. My welds aren't the prettiest but the hold ;)








Behind the driver's side.






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Got the new tires mounted and am quite pleased with the difference in stance and look of the lower profile tire. The old tires were 23" in diameter and the new tires are 22". The wheels now clear when steering. No more fender rubbing when turning the wheel.







The front is no problem. I can adjust the height or the camber, but the on the rear it's another story. I'm planning on getting the rear leafs de-arched to drop about 2" and adding another leaf to have the same spring rate (150lbs) as the front. It looks like I will also have to get new U-bolts made since I can't find small radius ones for these skinny diffs.







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Looks like the wheel studs do not pass thru the lug nuts. Looks like they only go 1/2 way thru. Bad idea


Those look like fairly long lug nuts though...


The rule of thumb is not studs sticking out, rather that your depth of thread engagement must be more than the diameter of the stud itself. So on a 12mm stud, you need at least 13mm of thread engagement. 

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One or two things yeah...   ^_^


I think the only part of my car that is original is the unibody itself...    :rofl:


Well let's see, just off top of my head, independent rear suspension, right hand drive, fender flares... :rofl:

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Is she a 73?


It's a '72.



Nerd alert: You can easily tell it is not a '73 because of the chrome overriders, the front bumper location, the different lower valence, and there's no seat belt light on the dash.





Dang DF, I'm learning more and more about the details of these cars thanks to you.

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Dang DF, I'm learning more and more about the details of these cars thanks to you.


They made a lot of front end changes for the '73 model to try and pass crash standards (same as they did with the 510). They added big all rubber overriders, beefier bumper brackets that moved the bumper 2" farther out, and the lover valence has bigger openings to suit the taller brackets.


Compare this photo of my car ('73) to your front end. 



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Basically all the labels on the car you have on it Fiveguyten, 

Hate to bother You, You been so busy with Your coupe.

Could You email me the pictures?

I think there is a limited  pixels you can posted here. I need those on the highest resolution possible.


Datsunfreak that is a sweet sweet coupe. That is what I am shooting for with my 73, with the TS front spoiler and rear wing witch I got both.

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