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fivetenguy

orange B110 coupe

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This is always a fun one: there are two throw out sleeves (three actually but one is rare JDM only) the A12 and A15 flywheels are different heights. Throw in the mix of the 3-4mm thick engine plate and the clutch fork pivots can vary as well as the clutch forks themselves.

 

So if you use a A12 flywheel (2.4 lbs or so lighter) remove the engine plate, 1mm shorter fork pivot and then use the short sleeve you could come up 10mm or so short. Conversely if you use the A15 flywheel, engine plate etc you end up with a clutch that won't fully release.

 

Now put in the mix and match of all these components and you may end up with slave cylinder at the extremes of adjustment; if you need to thread the adjuster nut all the way down that's great as the clutch wears but may cause an issue with the pressure plate later on. With the nut all the way out the slave cylinder may over travel and puke it's guts out.

 

When yanking a tranny yourself it's just a matter of measuring the flywheel height from the back of the block and comparing it to the motor you have in the car. When someone sells or gifts you a tranny you don't have that option. I measure the pressure plate finger height from the back of the block and then measure the throw out bearing distance from the tranny to block mating surface. From there it's pretty easy to work out if you have it right.

 

Tom

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Kelmo, Tom, great info from both of you. Thanks!

 

 

 

I finally got the washer/spacer yesterday. Like I posted earlier, I got it from McMaster-Carr. Part number is 93475A370 (18-8 Stainless Steel Washer for M39 Screw Size, 40 mm ID, 72 mm OD, Packs of 1) and it costs $5.55 plus shipping ($6).

 

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I will take pics of the whole process to make it easier for the next guy.

 

With my current setup: 60a 5spd, 12a engine and flywheel, 1980 210 clutch, sleeve and release bearing (I used the sleeve and bearing from the 210) and no engine plate. I get about 14mm of travel on the fork before the bearing touches the pressure plate.

 

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Edited by fivetenguy

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While we wait for the retry of making the 5spd trans work I will just unload some of the pics I've taken while I cleaned up the car and just because this forum needs more pics. My pics may be boring shit, but it's better than no pics.

 

One of the reasons I started the 5spd swap sooner than later was because the clutch was slipping on take off. Upon taking the clutch off I found out part of the reason. Looks like someone was trying to save themselves 50 bucks.

 

 

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The old clutch did not look too bad.

 

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Edited by fivetenguy

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The engine bay and trans tunnel was a mess caused by what looked like a leaky oil pan so I had to remove the engine to replace the oil pan gasket.

 

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Before and after pics of the engine bay clean. Didn't get too serious about cleaning the car as I loose interest real quick when it comes to cleaning and detailing.

 

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Boring, I know, but pics non the less.

Edited by fivetenguy
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The tunnel looks like it is a completely different car now. B)

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I gave up doing this to the green car and am now trying on the gray car (had to have at least on Datsun to drive) and have come to a road block while looking to find that little copper gasket that goes between the slave cylinder and the rubber hose.  I know I have about 6 of them.....just trying to find them.

 

Any good parts store sells them in a variety pack on the HELP aisle.   ;)

 

But you'd be amazed what just swapping the rubber line out for a stainless line with a banjo fitting does for pedal feel, and ease of maintenance. 

 

When yanking a tranny yourself it's just a matter of measuring

 

Think I found my new sig...    ^_^

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More boring crap...

 

Fresh flywheel. I just love the way these clutches look when they're nice and clean.

 

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You like what I used to keep the flywheel from turning when I torqued it down? Hey, it worked :rofl:.

 

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Going to install a new clutch master and slave. The master gave up on me a while back.

 

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More boring crap to come...

Edited by fivetenguy

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Clean, new parts are never boring.

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I got to the release bearing carrier issue earlier this week. Removed the old release bearing and installed the washer, then the bearing. I put the flattest part of the washer on the base of the carrier. I took some measurements of the carrier for future reference. Here is the link where I found a lot of useful info: http://datsun1200.com/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=51104&forum=1&post_id=365931#forumpost365931

 

I used a 1-1/16" socket to separate the bearing from the carrier. Note: this is the carrier from the 60A 5spd.

 

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Used a 36mm socket to press (lightly pounded in) the bearing onto the carrier.

 

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There was a little more than 1mm of space between the washer and bearing.

 

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After installing trans in, I got what appears good engagement. Instead of the 14mm it looks like it's down to 4mm of free play before contact. I am yet to try shifting with motor running. I'll try that in the coming weeks.

 

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Just an FYI pic of the total (rough) height of the carrier, bearing and washer.

 

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For what ever reason the new clutch hydraulic hose is about an inch short. It's been a while since I bought it on RockAuto so I cannot return it. I had a braided line and the needed fitting so no big deal.

 

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A few months back I bought an Addco swaybar. I was surprised to find it for $30 brand new. Maybe it was because it was the last one? I measured it with the old one and it's only 2mm thicker so not much stiffness gained, I guess.

 

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Edited by fivetenguy

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afracer, thanks for the info. I ordered one from Japan. I'll install next time I have to remove the transmission.

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Been busy with other things and work so this project has been moving at a snail's pace. Bought a new steering wheel and hub. Also, fabbed up some brackets and installed the seats I had in my 510. Hopefully this week coming up I'll be able to start up and possibly drive the car.

 

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Edited by fivetenguy
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Also installed new firewall heater hose grommets and new upper radiator and heater hose.

 

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Edited by fivetenguy
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The seats look good. FWIW, I had my 5 speed in for about 100 miles and then it started to make some noise, took it out and found nothing obvious.  I am curious about the rear trans mount.....It looks like your 1200 may have been an autotrajic to start with.  Did you have to make any changes to the rear mounting point or did it bolt right in?

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Not sure if it was an automatic or not. When I got it, it had stock 4spd. I had to make a custom crossmember for the trans. I did massage the crossmember brackets to give the transmission a little more room for side to side movement. It's kind of hard to see on the pic below because I painted it black to protect the bare metal from rusting. I basically made a slit on each side and hammered it in. The transmission was not all the way up in the car when the picture was taken.

 

I'm so hoping that this 5spd works well. I was so stoked when I found it in the wrecking yard a year ago.

 

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Edited by fivetenguy

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Ok, took a look at some of the other pics....looks like it was standard trans to start with.

 

Square shifter hole = automatic

Round shifter hole = standard

 

At least that is what I think the deal is....both of my 1200's have the square hole and the tunnel is a bit wider.  Did not have the clearance issues like are shown above.

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After I made a new trans crossmember, leveled the engine/trans and installed a new trans mount, the clearance issue minimized. I had to "massage the exhaust to clear the trans crossmember. It was no big deal since I was planning on redoing the exhaust using aluminized tubing.

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It's been a while since I've posted, but I've been working on the car here and there. The biggest issue I had since I've last posted was a leaking head gasket. It was leaking on the passanger side between cylinders 2 and 3. It had a small oil leak so I pulled the head out and sent it out to get resurfaced.

 

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You could see where the leak had started on the pic below. There's a small streak of oil on the side of the block.

 

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The intake ports looked real clean. No carbon seen.

 

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The top of the pistons were caked with some "oily" gunk. Not sure what was going on there. Some of the pistons had some scars on the top. Wondering if at one point something broke in the engine at one point.

 

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The cylinder walls felt pretty good. No grooves that I could feel. Over all the engine appeared to be in good condition.

 

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Edited by fivetenguy
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Got the head back from the machine shot. They said the valves had a 100% seal, so I don't think they did anything with the valves. They wanted me to get the steel valve seat but I refused. The brass ones look fine to me.

 

When I got the head back I noticed that some of the chambers also had nicks. Wonder if it correlates with the nicks on the pistons. Since I didn't care too much, I didn't investigate. Other chambers looked ok.

 

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Since I was doing the head, I went ahead and bought the water pump and thermostat. I bought the parts from rockauto. I purchased an AC Delco thermostat and in the box I got a Motorad. Never heard of them so when I looked them up, I seen mixed reviews. Since the thermostat that was in the car prior was a Nissan and I was too lazy to go and order a new one, I put it back in the head.

 

Then after installing the water pump, I discovered that the stock fan will not bolt on since the hole spacing on the new pump is wider than the stock fan. Since I installed it I couldn't return it. As I'm writing this I wonder if the 510 or 620 fan would fit...oh well.

 

The radiator had one of the bracket come loose. I figured I should just have the radiator place fix that since it wasn't a bad idea to have the radiator boiled and cleaned up.

 

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Cleaned off the top of the block and installed the head. Torqued it down according to the head bolt type and adjusted the valves.

 

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After everything was buttoned up I started the car. Noticed that the charge light would not go away. I ran the car anyway until it came up to temp. The gauge didn't even get to a 1/4 of the way. I'll have to measure the water later to verify. Instead of troubleshooting and spending money on older technology, I upgraded to an IR alternator. Due the size difference, I had to drill new holes on the lower alternator bracket for better clearance. Wired it in, eliminated the voltage regulator and rewired in the choke relay since the voltage regulator does that on the old system. It puts out a little over 14VDC at idle (1000rpm). I did not try reving up the engine to make sure it didn't over charge. I also had to buy a new alt. belt. The one prior was a bit short (820 compared to an 840).

 

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How hot does it get there in the summertime? Here in Texas those water pumps are a no-no. The stamped steel impeller just doesn't move enough water...

 

 

 

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On the alternator bracket.......did you just elongate the existing holes or drill completely new ones? I am about to do this on both of my 1200s and it looks like I only need about 1/4 " to make it clear the pipe for the lower rad hose.

 

Think I have had that water pump issue before also.  I thought it was a difference between A/C cars and non A/C, but I did the same thing and installed it and then realized it was wrong.

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