jboulukos Posted April 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2016 4. carb* not car Quote Link to comment
jboulukos Posted April 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2016 Also 1. Do I need to loosen the rocker shaft bolts/rocker arm? Quote Link to comment
jboulukos Posted April 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2016 How much coolant does the A14 hold? Quote Link to comment
jboulukos Posted April 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2016 "disconnecting the battery ground cable" ....Disconnecting the negative terminal on the battery is all that is needed here? Is it necessary to drain the engine oil first or can it be done last? My understanding is that the oil will be lower than the head and block when the engine is off and will not be inside the head when I remove it to do the job. I figured I would change the gasket then change the oil. correct? If correct, do I need to re-fill the coolant and engine oil in order to run the car to be able to adjust the valves after changing the head gasket? Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted April 29, 2016 Report Share Posted April 29, 2016 Oil can be left alone. Do oil change after. Yes, just negative cable has to be disconnected. You will need a 1/2 inch drive torque wrench, not 3/8. You can rent one for free at oreilly or AutoZone. Put down a deposit, get deposit back after returning tool. Get an adapter to put on a 1/2 drive that will let you use 3/8 sockets. I also use Cresent brand tools. I think I got my set at Costco about 10 years ago. It took me a few years to break a wrench. Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted April 29, 2016 Report Share Posted April 29, 2016 If the valves need to be adjusted hot like many datsun engines, you will want it full of coolant and oil. The engine would need to be at running temp, so get the fluids full first. Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted April 29, 2016 Report Share Posted April 29, 2016 Carb can stay on manifold. Just the the air filter assembly off to make things easier. Quote Link to comment
jboulukos Posted April 30, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2016 I made much progress today...getting as far as draining the coolant, removing air cleaner housing and valve cover. I am taking my time with pictures of the little hoses and all other bolts and such. A few more questions remain. 1. Can the distributer cap stay on? How are the start plugs removed? 2. Is the thermostat located at the very front of the head? 3. Do the push rods just pull out or does something need to be loosed first? Are they pulled out from underneath? 4. Where is the temperature gauge connection? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 30, 2016 Report Share Posted April 30, 2016 Carb can stay on but try not to tip the head on it's side or upside down. If you have to do this in order to clean it then take the carb off. Take the distributor cap and wires off. It's easy to bump it or drop something on it and crack it. On a cold engine loosen the rocker arm bolts in stages so that the last one loosened is not holding everything. Loosen them all slightly then go around and loosen them some more and keep going until all are loosened. Wiggle the push rods til they separate from the rocker arms and then lift the rocker arm assy away from the head. No lift the push rods out. You only need to remove enough coolant to lower the level below the head. A gallon would be lots. If has anti freeze in it so it will taste sweet, so cover and place out of reach of kids or pets. Not at all good for the kidneys. Quote Link to comment
Cheetahking Posted April 30, 2016 Report Share Posted April 30, 2016 This may have been covered - but you will need a 10mm allen head socket for the head bolts. You will learn a lot doing this - its not that hard.... Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 30, 2016 Report Share Posted April 30, 2016 The L series are 10mm allen I don't know about the A series. Quote Link to comment
jboulukos Posted April 30, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2016 Ok, the distributer cap and wires come off. Do I leave the spark plugs in the head then? Does the A14 have torque specs on spark plugs? Can I remove the spark plugs with an adjustable wrench? I think Id rather take the head out and have it examined and pressure tested by a machine shop. A shop closeby charges $55 to check the head and milling cost is $75. I gather from reading and researching that its important to make certain the head is flat. I'm not sure this can be done by a beginner upside down without removing the manifold. My rocker arm assembly is covered in slightly thick oil. Besides wiping off the oil with a rag, is there a way to clean it up? (don't have a professional parts cleaner booth) Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted April 30, 2016 Report Share Posted April 30, 2016 Clean things with your favorite degreaser a scrub brush, and a bucket or oil drain pan. Things like simple green and purple power work. Brake cleaner works great too especially if you need a pressurized spray. Spark plugs have a special socket most guys use. Needs to be a deep socket, regardless. They come in two sizes. Go to auto parts store and ask for a spark plug to fit your car, then you can get the proper size socket from their tool aisle. I personally freaking love the magnetic kind. Quote Link to comment
jboulukos Posted April 30, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2016 Thanks! How do you like to clean your head surfaces to prep for the new gasket? Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted April 30, 2016 Report Share Posted April 30, 2016 I use a regular utility knife blade. Like these. Carefully scrape off the gasket residue until You are getting clean metal. Keep the blade flat to the surface and clean. Head is aluminum, so it's easy to score with a steel blade. Go carefully. It can take a good while sometimes. Don't expect perfectly clean shiny metal. It won't look fresh machined. Just clean of debris and residue. Use as many blades as necessary, once the edge gets beat up, grab another. Quote Link to comment
jboulukos Posted April 30, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2016 I took off the metal fuel line leading to the carb. Is there a way to clamp off the fuel hose? Fuel is coming up from the hose coming from the fuel pump. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 30, 2016 Report Share Posted April 30, 2016 Shouldn't, the carb is higher than the tank. Place a rag under it. It should only be what's in the metal line. A few tablespoonfuls. Beware of gas fumes on rags. Store outside and away. Quote Link to comment
jboulukos Posted April 30, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2016 Thanks...yeah, I had detached the metal line that goes around the valve cover since some of the screw for its mounting arms are either attached to the head or share a nut for the exhaust manifold. I reattached items now I'm fine. Today I took the thermostat "housing" off. It looks original. I'll attach pictures soon. I was wondering how to remove the thermostat itself. Also I have loosened the rocker adjuster nuts and rocker assembly bolts and removed the push rods. They are all clean and straight. I believe I have the CA emmisions equipment in the front of the thermostat housing and to the left of it...the pulleys are there but no belt. I plan on taking some of it off although some hoses lead to it too. I'll attach pictures and see what you think. Also at the front of the block there's a little wire leading into the passenger side. What is this? Quote Link to comment
jboulukos Posted April 30, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2016 Here's the water outlet or whatever the metal piece is that covers the thermostat on the front of the cylinder block....I'm concerned about the integrity of the gasket mating surface. It has a significant amount of pitting. Will it be ok to use? Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted May 1, 2016 Report Share Posted May 1, 2016 If you glue or tape a piece of sandpaper to a piece of glass you will have a very flat surface you can use to refinish that surface. Place the gasket surface flat on the sandpaper and move it slowly with even pressure until you get the results you want. 2 Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted May 1, 2016 Report Share Posted May 1, 2016 remember to take pics and label wires and hoses lockleaf has a great idea to refinish that gasket surface, I would however recommend a fine grit maby start with a 120 to remove some material quickly than finish with a 300 series 1 Quote Link to comment
jboulukos Posted May 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2016 Pics, videos, ziplock bags with bolts and notes of where everything goes has been consistently completed throughout the process. Excellent, I will do the glass/sandpaper method. Further questions remain: 1. How do i remove the thermostat? just pull it outward? 2. Should I purchase a fail safe thermostat? and at which temp...one is for 160 degrees F, one is for 180 degrees F 3. I would like to clean the head and the rocker arm/springs, should I use a degreaser spray, toothbrush, and water? 4. Are there torque specs for the water outlet? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 1, 2016 Report Share Posted May 1, 2016 Any $10-12 brand name thermostat is fine. Get 185F for Chicago winters. You can degrease them if you want but they look just fine. If you just bought this car change the oil more often and they will clean up as you drive. Probably tighten by hand 3-5 ft lbs. Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted May 1, 2016 Report Share Posted May 1, 2016 Buy a 180. Lots of guys have bad stories about those fail safe. Google it. Thermostat just pulls right out. Quote Link to comment
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