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UN-LOWERING A 620


620dude

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I just got a 75' 620, it's been lowered, and it was lowered poorly.  the front springs were cut short, and now it's a really rocky ride.  honestly I'm not into the lowered look, Does anyone have experience raising a truck back up to it's stock height?  I don't really know where to start.  any tips?? 

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There is no cutting of the springs involved. 620's have torsion springs, you can adjust the ride height by tightening (lower) or loosening (higher) the bolt on the lever arm. 

 

 

Here is a link to the FAQ, the third post has information on how to do this adjustment. Post back in this thread if you have other questions :)

 

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/2105-datsun-faq-frequently-asked-questions-look-here-first/

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Look for the term 're-indexing the bars'. They may have been removed and rotated and installed to get even more drop.

 

When returned to stock, or near stock height, the toe will be out of alignment.

 

All this is easy enough to do.

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Check your rear springs too! Make sure they didn't pull out any leafs. There should be 4 or 5 springs per side. They probably used lowering blocks which you can remove. All you will need are new shorter u-bolts.

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When lowered too much the LCA rests on the rubber bump stops. Even if the rubber bump stop is trimmed the LCA is basically fixed and has almost no movement upwards. You have to have suspension movement for the shocks to work and do their job. Basically the truck is using the air in the tires as the suspension. These trucks never ride right, but hard core lowered drivers say they are fine.. they aren't. It's the price you pay for severe lowering. Same with lifted vehicles, and they, handle like shit.

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I just dealt with this in my 620.  It's not too hard of a fix, and before doing it, I knew absolutely nothing about working on cars.

 

On the back end, where the leaf springs are, there will be blocks in between the springs and the truck.  You just undo the nuts on the U-bolts there and lift the axle up.  Then the blocks just pull out.  Then you put everything back together.  The problem here is that those U-bolts will be really long, to accommodate those blocks.  I couldn't find properly sized U-bolts anywhere, so I just took a sawzall and cut a couple inches off of them.  They went back in without issue.

 

On the front end, with the torsion bars, the write-up that Redeye linked to is what I followed when I worked on mine.  There are a few different ways to get at your torsion bars, though, and I read through more than a few write-ups to figure out what was best for my lack of experience.  Also, with the torsion bars, remember that, after re-indexing, you have to tighten the nuts on the arms quite a lot.  The more you tighten, the higher your truck will ride.  That was something I must have missed while reading, and I had to jack my truck up somewhere around 3 times until I figured it out.

 

Cheers and good luck! 

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I agree to a point. If lowered moderately, properly... some maybe even much, of the shitty ride can be compensated for.

 

Having to be careful where you drive, potholes, steep driveways, raised manholes, debris on road, RR tracks and the stiff ride isn't for everyone.

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