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**DATSUN FAQ** Frequently Asked Questions - Look here FIRST!

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**DATSUN FAQ** Frequently Asked Questions - Look here FIRST!


Then watch this video.


After that SEARCH!


If you haven't found the answer, chances are we'd love to discuss the topic in depth beyond any depth and relevance you thought possible.


Now, ask away :fu:


OK, So I'll do my best to keep this an organized information bucket.

I'm hoping, along with all you guys, that we can get all the repeated questions answered before their asked...like the favorite...What does it take to put a 5-speed in my 620? and any other FAQ that we answer over and over and over and over...


So if you know the answer, the question or know of a relevant thread post up. I will edit the thread as needed to consolidate and keep it tech only.


This should be all the models to start with. Hopefully, eventually we can break it up for each section.


Here's a my start...I will just keep editing my post as I find relevant threads...of course, my finds will prolly be a bit truck biased laugh.gif


If you don't own one, this should be your first purchase after choosing a Datsun




[EDIT: the green Haynes manual for 510, pl521 pictured has an incorrect page.The wiring diagram is actually a 620.]


Relevant and Informative Links


BRE's most awesome tech site


This link contains FSM (Factory Service Manuals) in pdf form for the 320, 520, 521 & 620. Download yours, print it and read it.

I recommend browsing the entire site, good stuff biggrin.gif

I also recommend a donation to help keep this resource available. Paypal is accepted through http://www.olddatsuns.com/


[EDIT: the620.com pdf 521 wiring diagram is wrong. It looks to be copied from the haynes green 510, pl521 manual which pictured above. Hopefully some can supply a for that correct]




Bleaches Site (Time to do some updates buddy biggrin.gif)





Hainz L Series Video - Watch and learn, then watch it again


L head gasket replacement Pt1


L head gasket replacement Pt 2


L head gasket replacement Pt 3


L head gasket replacement Pt 4


L head gasket replacement Pt 5I




From the old sticky for tech links - thanks for getting us started PAC


Tech Link Tread




HEI EI dist. swap- http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/gmhei.html


SU info & tune up specs- Hitachi S. U. Tech Pages







Truck Brakes


Finelines - Disc brakes for your Kingpin Truck





Glengemans - Front Disc & Ball Joint Swap

Custom Upper Control Arm Method


L Series Info


Head bolts - cheapest I could find anywhere...local dealer wanted $120 for the L20 set....got a few extra with this and they're the turbo bolts...




Engine Swap Info


How to wire a KA CA SR and VG into anything.


KA24 Swap Info


KA Pictures


Icehouses 620 KA Swap


SR20DET Swap info - Yep, it'll fit


makibakas DGRfab 521 SR20DET


Roostmonkeys SR20DET swap


620 Truck

Transmission Gear Ratios

Type 1st 2nd 3rd 4th 5th Year Range

AT 3 2.458 1.458 1.000     1973-79

MT 4 3.657 2.177 1.419 1.000   1973

MT 4 3.592 2.246 1.415 1.000   1974-79

MT 5 3.321 2.077 1.308 1.000 0.864 1977-78

MT 5 3.592 2.246 1.415 1.000 0.882 1979



620 Truck

Rear Axle Gear Ratios

Ratio model Year Range

4.375 MT 4 & 5 speeds through '78

4.625 AT Sept 1973 to July '75

4.375 AT Aug. '75  through '79

4.11 MT4 & MT5 '79 only





H-190 Info

Came with 13 spline side gears on very early trucks/cars.

More common 23 spline side gears used on Roadster*, 510 wagon*, 610 wagons from Sept. '73, all 810 and Maxima gas/diesel wagons.

All 29 spline were on the 520*/521*/620*/7202wd and 4x4 to '83, '82-'83 S110 (200sx) and the '84 S12 (200sx)


* aluminum case, used only on the earliest 620s.


Ratios range from 3.364, 3.545, 3.70, 3.889, 4.11, 4.375, 4.625 to 4.875



Yes, there is a Limited Slip Differential available for your truck.



www.reiderracing.com $400 Its a precision gear power brute. They sell two parts for the same axle depending on what gear ratio you are running. One with and one without a 4mm spacer. The one without the spacer will accomodate 4.11 to 4.62 gears and the one with the spacer will go for 4.87 to 5.42. You have to use the later model gears with the 12mm ring gear bolts though. Its still cheaper than having an axle cut to fit the narrow pickups.

Found another LSD. It's built by Auburn gear.


This is a link to one for $499.99



ARB also offers a selectable locker for the H190



Fit those big wheels.

Newer wheels require some work to fit on our trucks. You can either machine the wheels to fit over the hub, run 1/4" spacers or machine your hubs so that any newer wheel will fit.


Machined 620 ball-joint hub (this will work on king-pin hubs as well)




Will Titans Fit?


Yes, here are the measurements...


Pics, cause their fun


Titan Tech:






Tire size...




Measuring off set...








Wheel (true) width...







Lug nut info - Thanks Hainz


wheel studs

stock are 42mm front

41.5mm rear


40222-RS035 front 50mm 14.3 x 36t serrations

40222-RS045 front 60mm


40222-RS015 rear 50mm 13.0 x 36t serrations

40222-RS025 rear 60mm


example here I dont know whats in a set ,i got this on the Z car section

everbody record this but remeber the 521 trucks use 7/16 lug nuts so these will be M12x1.25 metric





620 Dash pic's




90 AMP Alternator swap for a L series motor - Page 3 is meat n taters


Where to get parts for your Datto





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HAHA Filled up that one....





Drum Brake Adjustment


Sample thread from nwde:


i have the basic 4wheel drum brakes.. just wondering the best way to adjust them or make sure they're adjusted


jack truck up

adjust brakes by getting a screw driver or a brake adjuster(looks like a bent screw driver the stick in behined brake drum the rotate the wheel down till you feel a slight resistance and maybe back off a click.



Download the manual at www.the620.com and it will tell you exactly how to do it.



stick the tool inside the hole and click the gear downward? sounds easy enough.. i was just making sure there wasnt some kind of "special technique" that you guys know of.. i've found that you fellers know some Tricky stuff .. not always common sense.. so i figured i'd ask



Don't force the star wheel, it may be seized. Lack of maintenance, or lube, and driving through puddles does this. If so, remove the drum and dismantle and loosen up the adjuster and lube with brake grease




Thanks Lynch biggrin.gif


The aforementioned TOOL




Thanks pl521sss tongue.gif


5-Speed Swap Info


With the early short tail 4-speed swaps, you will need the forward section of the driveshaft that comes with the transmission you are swapping in as the later 4 and 5-speeds are longer.


Bleach says:


1977-80 280Z(X) 5-speeds have the short 5th gear pretty much the same as the truck 5-speeds.


Only use an L-series 5-speed. If you get a 720 trans then stick to 1980 only. L20b/


1981-83 280zx has a taller 5th gear than other L-series transmissions.


I did the automatic to 5-speed swap; then a few years later I did the short 5th gear to tall 5th gear tranny swap only because I had the tranny and I needed a new throwout bearing.


Use the throwout bearing that goes with your clutch kit. If you still have an L20b, then just buy a stock 225mm clutch kit for it. Its the same as the non-turbo Z clutch. Its more than you need for your massive power L-series 4 banger.


Datsunaholic says:


This is really easy.


Transmission: As long as you use the L-series 5-speed from a TRUCK or a Z/ZX or 810 Maxima it bolts straight in. The bells are not removable, nor is there any reason to. I don't think the internals for the 5-speed would fit in a 4-speed case, but maybe they would. I know the extension housings are different.


Transmission mods: Take your speedometer drive out of the 4-speed you have now and put it in the 5-speed. Else, your speedo will be as much as 20% off with a ZX tranny. Or could be the same if using a '77-78 truck one.


Throwout: You use the throwout bearing and collar that's in the truck now. DO NOT (I repeat) DO NOT use a ZX collar on the truck. While SOME are the right size, not ALL are (2+2 ZX's used 240mm clutches). It's best to replace the bearing now, but if it's fairly new it's your call.


Transmission mount- you use the one on the 4-speed. The Z/ZX one is significantly different.


Shifter: use whichever one you like more. I've used both the stock truck 4-speed one and the ZX 5-speed one on my 5-speeds. The ZX one is really short and hits the console, but the short throw is "interesting".


I found that the hardest part is actually getting the damn thing IN. I found it easier to yank the engine out, swap transmisssions, and put it back in. I've done just the transmission and I'll never do that again without a lift. It took me 3 weeks to swap transmissions in a truck leaving the engine in place (I ended up unbolting the CAB and jacking it up to gain clearance) and I've done the full engine pull-swap clutch and tranny- reinstall engine in a day.




Mklotz's Hinge Repair Thread



(I hope to get this embedded soon)



Paint Codes






620 body parts from Thailand




620 Rear Bushings



I am in the process of having my rear springs re-arced and have found that Energy suspension P/N# 2.2107g polyurethane bushings will work on the 620 rear leafs and shackles. You have to use the stock metal sleve from the rubber bushings and not the ones with the kit.


Very interesting. Just for more reference, that kit fits front and rear leaf springs of an 87-96 jeep wrangler.



More L Series Head Info


L Head identification and specs



Typical Cracking of L Series Blocks


So here's where mine were cracked, This is the one Icehouse got me..so far it looks good with the magnaflux, but I'll know more this week after it's bath.


Check it owt!




I guess what happens is: Someone will do a head gasket and not clean out the head bolt holes. Because of this the bolt won't torque properly and can crack the block. Either that or they are over torque-ing them still cracking the block. Then water will creep up the head bolt and into your oil making it look like a bad head gasket.


So remember to chase those threads and clean out those bolt holes before properly torque-ing your head bolts to spec and all will be good

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]2edeye, Please make a note that the link to the 620 has the FSM's that everybody with a 620 should have downloaded and to donate for the privilege of getting them Cheap or Free!



How to Reindex Torsion Bars


in front of the middle crossmember, you pull the boot forward to reviel the lock ring




Work a thin screwdriver into the edge of the ring. It will be tight. I had to work the angle back and forth while occasionally tapping the back of the handle with a hammer




Once you get under the ring, work it out slightly. Do not pull the screwdriver away or the ring will pop back on




After you have worked it off part way, use some pliers to pull the ring off the rest of the way. Be sure to still keep the screwdriver under the lock ring




Tap the rear arm of that holds the adjuster bolt out of the crossmember. Hang onto the torsion bar. It can slide out at either end. I was able to feel the splines in the end of the bar and I moved it two notches. edit:(but you only want to move it one notch!) The reindexed bar is on the right.




after the bar is reindexed, just hold the lock ring up and hit the back of the ring with a hammer. It pops on real easy. Put the dust boot back



Nice pic's of the snap ring Bleach smile.gif



Picture added by datzenmike 21/04/10:






Another method








just remove the anchor bolts then remove the nut on the A arm up front almost off then pound it out w/o hurting the threads

me and Icehouse did his 521 truck. We NEVER removed the c clip from the back

we just pulled the torsion bar from the front A arm and reindexed it there. Had to jack up the wheel to get it to reinstall. We never wanted to take the c clip out.

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Added this to the620 link


This link contains FSM (Factory Service Manuals) in pdf form for the 320, 520, 521 & 620

I recommend browsing the entire site

I also recommend a donation to help keep this resource available, I believe paypal is accepted through the620.com


Makya, thanks for the prod with the yota FAQ. I've been putting off doing this for quite some time and that was just the right nudge biggrin.gif


On to the next post.... biggrin.gif


Here's a beauty of a quote from pirate4X4.com/forum on troubleshooting (which some people seem to think, means parts replacement)




Somebody thats green at auto repair is fine. I really don't have a problem with them so much once they learn how to ask a question and how to search first. They are trying to learn and with enough PBB abuse we can straighten them out.


I am so tired of dumbasses that have no freaking idea of how to repair a vehicle giving shitty advice to people! Its driving me insane!




If you tell somebody to go buy a part without first walking them through the diagnostic on said part...DELETE YOUR POST! YOU ARE AN IDIOT WITH NO CLUE AND YOU ARE WASTING THIS PERSONS TIME AND MONEY IF THEY ARE STUPID ENOUGH TO LISTEN TO YOU!


You can tell the good advice and the people with a clue because they will tell you to do the diagnostics (read codes meter out sensors etc) first. They generally never tell you to buy a part right off the bat. They ask you to do the leg work and prove that part bad before you spend money.


There is diagnostic procedures for every part on a motor. You should NEVER spend money on a part till you have PROVED that part defective by doing the diagnostics.


Where do you get these procedures....A SHOP MANUAL! The very first thing you should do if you have any inkling to do a repair on your truck is BUY A DAMN SHOP MANUAL!


Shop manual will have step by step procedure on how to test the part and all the values and responses you should see if the part is working correctly. It will also have the correct torque values on fasteners that will keep you from galling threads. If you bother to look them up and figure out a 8mm bolt doesn't not and cannot handle 45ibft of torque. Over tightening stuff is just as bad as under. You exceed the spec on the bolt and that bolt is at risk for catastrophic failure ("breaking" for the HS drop outs with limited vocabulary) at any time.


A fuel injected Toyota is one of the simplest vehicles to work on you will find. IT WILL TELL YOU WHAT IS WRONG AND WHERE TO LOOK IF YOU KNOW HOW TO ASK! HOW TO ASK IS IN THE SHOP MANUAL!


Tools for diagnostics on Toyota's.


Paper clip or 2 inch wire with spades on each end. (free or under $1 if you have to buy the spades)


Volt Ohm Meter ($10-20)


Mighty vac hand vacuum pump. ( $20 and it will help you bleed your brake too)


Vacuum gage with assorted T and hose adapters ($14)....A Might vac can be used if you got the fancy one with the gage.


SHOP MANUAL (Haynes is $14 at parts store and it OK for most repairs)


BRAIN capable of logical thought and following written procedures.



So for about $55-75 and a public education you can have a pretty good set of diagnostics tools to work on your junk.


You don't need a $10k computer the dealer has. Fact of the matter is a dealer mechanic is often more of an idiot then those of us that do it with a paper clip. They are parts installers. We have to do the leg work and understand how the parts relate to each other. They will do with the computers says and if it doesn't work then they have the luxury to take the part off and try a different part since they have stock available to swap till the problem goes away.



Procedures to follow for any run problem.


Step 1. READ THE CODES IF ITS FI! Just because the light isn't on doesn't mean there is no codes to be read. There are "Hard codes" (the ones that will keep the check engine light on) and "soft codes". A soft code or intermittent problem may only have the light on for a short period of time or possibly not at all depending on the code. Once you have those codes look them up. Reset the ECM at this point.


Now if this is an intermittent problem then reseting the ECM will clear codes that will be unrelated or possibly tripped if any other diagnostics has been done that possibly tripped an invalid code. Try to recreate the problem. Once it occurred then read the codes again. See what codes are gone and what ones came back. On a FI code it may have multiple meanings. What other codes are present will help you decide what that combination of codes most likely shows is wrong.


Step 2. (step 1. on a carb motor) Take note of the problem. When does it happen, Is it when the engine is cold or hot. Idle, accelerating, steady cruise, decelerating? That information is VERY important is helping people rule things out.


As an example. Starting cold fine and running fine till the motor warms on on a Carb vehicle is usually a problem with the Choke. Usually the choke has not opened and its drowning the motor.


Those same exact symptoms on a Fuel injected engine is usually a EGR problem or a O2 Sensor problem. The clue here is the O2 and EGR are not used till the motor is at full operating temp. Now it can still be a bad temp sensor that keeps the cold start injector on and doing essentially the same thing as the choke not open.


So you can see why it is so important to have all the facts and symptoms.




Step 4. DO THE DIAGNOSTIC STEPS THAT THE MANUAL RECOMMENDS. Confirm the part is defective by that diagnostic procedure. Buy new part and test operation after installation.


Step 5. If you still have a problem or test inconclusive then SEARCH on PBB. If you cant find a post with the same problem then ask. Notice this is not the first thing to do. This is because any of us with a clue is going to tell you to go do the first few steps or ask you questions that the answers will be in those steps.




Now some of you are idiots that don't know how to ask a question. You just about deserve the crappy advice you are going to get. Hope you got a deep wallet.


"Truck wont idle" is a DUMB question. My first response will be "Search" or "its not Tuesday".




Because I don't feel like having to pry out of you what you have checked, detailed description of problem and because every problem you could possibly have has been covered so you should have already found a post same problem and been able to go through most of the recommendations.



When you ask a question you need to help us help you.

We need to know the following:


What year the truck or the engine is


What model engine


Carb or fuel injected


modifications such as upgraded ignition, 22R converted to 22RE, propane, anything at all remotely related to the problem.


Anything that lead up to the problem such as driving though 4ft of water. HG replacement, Dumbass know it all buddy tried to fix it.


What diagnostic steps you have performed already and their results. I.E. IF THIS AS IF THIS VEHICLE IS FUEL INJECTED YOU BETTER TELL ME IF IT HAS A CODE PRESENT AND YOU HAVE CONSULTED THE MANUAL AND CAN TELL US WHAT THAT CODE SAID FOR YOUR YEAR TRUCK.. If you cant do that much then you are probably only going to get answerers from the "throw some money at it" idiots. The rest of us are burned out on the dumb questions with no details and ignoring them.






320 Info


J13 Engine Modifications


E1 Electronic Ignition Swap


Even More L Series Info


Mklotz's Valve Adjustment Thread



(Hope to have this embedded here soon as well)


More Interior Info


Carpet For Trucks






Sway Bars




Carb Pic's


Weber 32/36





Got this carb from a guy for next to nothing but need info on it... I am not great with this stuff so picture by picture would be great. In the second pic you notice the pencil is pointing to a broken tab??









Thanks sdsurf
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Stock Hitachi


I will try to post some pics here.


Top view;




diagnal view showing throttle and secondary linkage and anti-dieseling apparatus;




bottom view;




fender side view;




front; NOTE: sight glass bull's eye is installed upside down.



engine side;




and the last one is the rear view.




This is several viewsof my stock Hitachi that I pulled off this afternoon to do a exhaust/intake gasket change. Hope these help. The wire with the blue, round connector attaches to the auto choke and the one with the flat, red connector goes to the anti-dieseling switch. These will connect to the blue and red wires that are in a group of 4 wires that come out of the wiring harness that runs near the radiator, above the drivers side headlights. Dan


I took some more pics of the carb this morn. The first is the throttle open and the next with it closed. The other two are out of the manual. According to the manual, the linkage keeps the secondary from opening until the primary reaches 50%, then the linkage moves away from the roller pin on the secondary enough to allow the vacuum dashpot to open up the secondary plate. Hope this helps. Dan











Thanks 650savag



It's my understanding that the early 280 didn't have a 5spd. If it was swapped in it could be anything. It wasn't until 1977 that a 5-speed was added in the US. The 1977-80 5-speed was considered a "wide-ratio", the 1981-83 a "close ratio" transmission. Close ratio transmissions are preferred for road racing as they allow the driver to maintain a tighter rev range between gears compared to wide ratio versions.


Here's how to identify the 280z 5 spd transmissions:




Torsion bar adjustment bolts


Thanks Reese. biggrin.gif



I remember someone was asking where the torsion bar bolts were.. They are the two long bolts on both sides of the driveshaft at the end of the transmission. Jack up the truck to get the wheel off the ground, loosen the lock nut on top, hold the bottom nut and loosen the bolt. For a 2" drop I have about an inch of threads left at the top. I would also remove or shorten the bump stops behind the front shocks so you have some suspension travel again.



As well as adding info, if you guys see something that's incorrect please let me know wink.gif

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the 620.com pdf 521 wiring is wrong. it looks to be copied from the haynes green 510,pl521 manual pictured on the top of this page which is also incorrect. both say 521 wiring but it's a 620 that is pictured. i'm sure some of us can supply the correct 521 pdf wiring harness page for the 620.com but the green haynes manual cannot be fixed.

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Yes, more Z info! Sadly, the most info in one place seems to be Jason Grey's lists, and only applies to direct swappable engine parts to the L series. The 720 is a store house of parts that will or can be made to fit the 620s. They are available, newer and some times much improved. We should change this! Here's a start: the front diff on a 720 Z22 engine 4X4 will fit the 510 and give it an R 180 4.11 ratio.


Mid-late '82 there was a big change to the 720s. The '78-'79 620 disc brake set up that was used on the '80-'82 720 was up-graded to vented rotor and a much larger caliper used. I suspect that it will slip on the '78 and '79s as well, never tried it but looked at it. '83 was the first year for the C200 rear gear on all 4X4s, still R-180 on the front.


620/720 frames are all but identical for Short/Long/KC. Shock mounts may differ at the rear. I put my '78 KC onto a Long Bed and all lined up but the two front bed mts. Had to cut and weld them 11" back.

Edited by datzenmike
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i think we need to mention some info about the 521 front inner wheel bearing 32kb02 that is no longer available. most all of the parts stores are wrong with their application. a 30304 will not work. the a-24 will not work. is the a-24 the one that says 32kb02 11b on it? are there 3 bearings that say 32kbo2? one for a 521, one for a 620, and the above mentioned 11b? can you tell the difference by just the numbers for the 521 and 620 or do you need a caliper?


i know nwde has some links but this sticky is getting messy enough. the nwde links i consider to be important info but under semi different topics, oh no thats what this is!:eek: come on big wigs tell us what you know and please dont just point to posts.


not all of us want to do the 620 conversion but i guess a link wouldn't kill me:D

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Most of the bearing info is on pg 5 of the nwde thread




The diff between the two bearing is the large end where the seal rides....otherwise, they have the same ID, OD, and outer race width. The A24 set will go right into the 521 hub, but the "boss" at the base of the spindle is different.


If I remember right, the 30304 is the outer bearing and readily available. The parts stores list the 30306 as the inner and that is wrong. The back axle is a 30308.....again, this is all off memory. If you read the thread, I think it's in there. My bearing folder is at least an inch thick and I'm going to bed instead of digging through it :)

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This will help the EFI engine dudes :D




ECU Codes List

Contributed by Administrator

Wednesday, 10 October 2007

Last Updated Wednesday, 10 October 2007

A list of Nissan ECU codes, for OBD I , OBD II Vehciles

Here are a list of SES/CEL NISSAN CODES

11 Crank angle sensor/circuit (1988 to 1990); Crankshaft position sensor (1991 to 1996)

12 Air flow Meter/circuit open or shorted

13 Cylinder head temperature sensor(Maxima and 300ZX models); all others coolant temperature sensor circuit

14 Vehicle Speed Sensor signal circuit is open

15 Mixture ratio is too lean despite feedback control; fuel injector clogged

21 Ignition signal in the primary circuit is not being entered to the ECU during cranking or tuning

22 Fuel pump circuit (Maxima and 1987 and later 300ZX models); all others idle speed control valve or circuit

23 Idle switch (throttle valve switch) signal circuit open

24 Park/netural switch malfunctioning

25 Idle speed control valve circuit is open or shorted

26 Turbo boost

28 Cooling fan

29 Fuel system rich

31 1984 through 1986 EFI models; Problem in air conditioning system; all other models: ECU internal problem

32 1984 through 1986 EFI models; check starter system. All other models: EGR malfuntion (California models)

33 Oxygen sensor or circuit (300ZX left side) - all other models EGR malfunction

34 Detonation (Knock) sensor

35 Exhaust gas temperature sensor (California models)

36 EGR transducer

37 Closed loop control/front oxygen sensor (Maxima)

41 Maxima and 1984 through 1987 300ZX models; fuel temp sensor circuit. All other models: air temperature sensor


42 1988 and later 300ZX models; fuel temperature sensor circuit; all other models: throttle sensor circuit

43 The mixture ratio is too lean despite feedback control; fuel injector clogged (1987 Sentra only): All others; Throttle

position sensor circuit is open or shorted

44 No trouble codes stored in ECU

45 Injector fuel leak (California models only)

51 Fuel injector circuit open (California models only)

53 Oxygen sensor (300ZX right side)

54 Short between automatic transmission control unit(TCU) and ECU

55 Normal engine management system operation is indicated

63 Misfire detected - cylinder no. 6

64 Misfire detected - cylinder no. 5

65 Misfire detected - cylinder no. 4

66 Misfire detected - cylinder no. 3

67 Misfire detected - cylinder no. 2

68 Misfire detected - cylinder no. 1

71 Misfire detected - random

72 Catalytic converter malfunction (right side)

74 EVAP pressure sensor

75 EVAP leak

76 Fuel injection system

77 Rear oxygen sensor

81 Vacuum cut bypass valve

82 Crankshaft sensor

84 Automatic trans-to-fuel injection communication

85 VTC solenoid

87 EVAP canister purge control

91 Front oxygen sensor

95 Crankshaft sensor

98 Coolant temperature sensor

101 Camshaft sensor

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I just swapped a long-shaft 5-speed tranny into my 73 620 and wanted to share some of the differences.


The 73 comes with a short-shaft 4-speed. When putting in a long-shaft 5-speed u need to have the tranny crossmember from the a long shaft tranny truck (75-79) and the front drive shaft piece (shorter than the stock 73). I opted to get a whole driveline from a 77 to ensure no vibration from mixing and matching. U also need the long-shaft tunnel cover (the plate that srews on over the tranny opening inside the cab). With all of these pieces it will b a str8 bolt-in :D

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did you use the search thingy laugh.gif




well im still curious on whether the speed dive will swap from a 77 auto to an 80 5 speed?





Not supposed to... automatic speedo cogs will not fit standard transmissions . On standard 4 and 5 speeds the late '79 and up were installed with the key way facing down. Pre '80s had the key way facing up. If you swap them, one won't engage the drive teeth and the other will be squashed.


Here's a picture of the difference:


Edited by ]2eDeYe
added direct quote of tech
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  • 1 year later...

some helpful ignition dizzy info on a naps z


so i thought my plug wires where mixed up so i re arraigned my plug wires according to a diagram i found. and now it will not start i have tried many plug wire combo,s but no luck. please help i want to drive my truck lol


This is how the dizzy should look if you are leaning on the driver's fender looking down on it. In the center are two coil wire terminals. The top most one has a square with an In inside it the bottom one has a circle with Ex inside it. The square one is for the intake plugs and just above my finger at 9 o'clock is a square that says I1 (intake one) Down at 4 o'clock is my thumb and just ahead of it is a circle with E1 (exhaust one) in it. The rotor is reallt two rotors in one conducting both intake and exhaust coil outputs. If you look closely there are an inner 4 terminals and an outer 4. Inner are intake, outer are exhaust.


If you set to TDC the rotor terminals should be pointing to 9 and 4 o'clock to fire both intake and exhaust #1 plugs.








Ok so one more question what direction should the vac advance be pointing ? Front of the truck reaR of the truck hood or towards the ground?






a great thread about pickup LSD (thank you Datzen mike)


The WD-21 and D-21 use an H-233 rear diff. The Pathfinder is a 5 link coil spring while the Hardbody is leaf spring. Internally the same. The H-233 comes in 4.375 and 4.625 ratio, is available with LSD and the Pathfinder available with rear disc brakes. Both are about 150" between rims so 1 1/2 to 2" per side wider than a 620. The '95 and on have a different spline count and axles will not swap with newer diffs.


31 spline Pathfinder axles vs. 720/620/521 29 splined axles.




I toyed with this idea. All I found locally was a WD-21 axle so I cut all the coil and link mounts off of it and planned to weld leaf spring perches on later.








H-233 4.625 LSD diff. This ring gear is larger than the Ford 9"!!! The early ones have a 185 ft. lb. breakaway torque. Later 2003 Frontiers are 29 ft. lb. (why even bother????) Soccer moms complaining about wheel chatter turning around in the parking lot I bet.




The lSD can be disassembled and spacer/clutch discs added or removed to tailor the breakaway force.










The diffs used on all 4X4s after '83 with the Z24 motor were C-200s so the whole axle would need changing.


Check out the '88- 01'92 2wd D-21 with Z24i or KA24E motor. They used an H-190 rear diff and there was an LSD option for them. Gears are limited to 3.545 and 3.70 ratios but they could likely be swapped. Dealer cost for the LSD unit (only) is $1,500, ouch. If looking for one at the wreckers look on the bum of the diff for an orange sticker that says LSD or LSD OIL ONLY





Take a rag to wipe the grease off with and..... good luck.




Edited by ]2eDeYe
added quotes to direct info
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  • 1 year later...

I found a wiring diagram for a 81 720. Figured it might be useful for some. I ran it through photoshop quickly to mate the 4 pictures together.


Not sure what should be done with this, but I think it should be hosted somewhere more dedicated, maybe even converted into a PDF...



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So, I've been searching on info for choosing which strut insert to use in my 280ZX struts. It was hard to choose without knowing which year/model strut insert to look for. I was inspired by a post I saw at InfamousNissan. Hopefully this "Guide", will offer some insight for the people who are undecided, searching for length specifics or are unsure as to which year/vehicle combination strut and or shock to use. If you need any other info head to gabriel.com or monroe.com

Disclaimer information:

Not all companies manufacture the strut inserts and shocks the same. For example, Monroe part# 5803 is for a '71 510 shows a compressed length of 12.750". Gabriel part# 82124 also for a '71 510 shows a compressed length of 13.34" so having said that shop accordingly tongue.gif Also Monroe is kind enough to provide a strut insert body length and Gabriel gives only a complete length (top of the rod (no homo, lol, to bottom of body)

I will start with the front most common strut swap insert information:

1983 Datsun 280ZX (front) Gabriel part# G44869
Compressed Length: 15.65"
Extended Length: 21.36"
Travel Length: 5.71"

1983 Datsun 280ZX (front) Illumina Tokico part# BZ3038
Body length: 14.75"
Compressed length: 17.250"
Extended length: 24.000"
Travel length: 7.250"

1992 Toyota MR2 (SW20 front) Monroe part# 73204
Body type: T3
Body Length:13.125"
Compressed length: 13.625"
Extended Length: 20.125"
Travel Length: 6.500"

1992 Toyota MR2 (SW20 rear) Monroe part# 73255
Body type: T3
Body length: 14.000"
Compressed length: 14.500"
Extended length: 21.500"
Travel length: 7.000"

1985 Toyota MR2 (AW11 front) Monroe part# 72880
Body type: T2
Body length: 14.500"
Compressed length: 15.750"
Extended length: 22.125"
Travel length: 6.375"

1885 Toyota MR2 (AW11 rear) Monroe part# 72881
Body type: "special mount"
Body length: 13.750"
Compressed length: 14.750"
Extended length: 21.250"
Travel length: 6.500"

1982 Volkswagen Rabbit (front) Monroe part# 72878
Body type: T2
Body length: 12.750"
Compressed length: 14.125"
Extended length: 20.125"
Travel length: 6.00"

The Koni race strut insert dimensions are as follows:
(P/N - Body Length - Stroke)

Single adjustable (@ top)
8610-1436 - 11.42" - 5.63"
8610-1437 - 13.07" - 6.02"

Double adjustable (top & bottom)
8611-1257 - 11.42" - 5.63"
8611-1258 - 15.39" - 6.22"
8611-1259 - 13.07" - 6.02"

Install notes: The OD of the Koni Race Strut Insert is 1.71”. These are a tight fit into most Datsun strut tubes. If you have shortened struts, the weld absolutely cannot penetrate into the inside of the tube or the cartridge will not slide in. In some cases you may need to sand off the paint so they will fit.
Now for the rear commonly swapped shocks.

1971 Datsun 510 (rear) Monroe part# 5803
Compressed length: 12.750"
Extended length: 21.500"
Travel length: 8.750"
Lower mounting code: L1/CP3

1968 Chevrolet Camaro (rear) Monroe part# 32143
Compressed length: 11.625"
Extended length: 19.250"
Travel length: 7.625"
Lower mounting code: 7/16" sleeve ID x 1.3/8" OAL

1992 Chevrolet Camaro (rear) Monroe part# 33122
Compressed length: 11.625"
Extended length: 18.750"
Travel length: 7.125"
Lower mounting code: L1/CP1

This one was a little wierd...

Both, 1978 Ford Mustang II (rear) and the 1987 Toyota Corolla (AE86 rear)
share the same Monroe part# 32191
Compressed length: 10.250"
Extended length: 16.500"
Travel length: 6.250"
Lower mounting code (the same for both) 7/16"x1.7/8" OAL

Hope this info is helpful for you guys and gals. If you want me to ad any other strut insert that is "compatible" with the 280ZX strut PM me the vehicle info. For some of the non Datsun strut inserts a bushing of sorts might be required to help the insert fit the housing properly.
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So I have a 82 720. But no idea what engine is in it. Or Tranny. It's a 4spd, and it needs a new engine. The only available one I can get is a 85 Z24. Will this fit? Everything will bolt up? It'd be way easier for me to just drop in a 22r or any other 4cyl. So what will bolt up perfectly?? Sorry for my stupidity haha. I'm a full sized chevy guy all the way getting into these little trucks.

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This is more for the frequently asked questions so if you have more, have a look at all the forum choices there are like... ENGINE  or TRUCKS (720) Maybe start a project or build thread of your own, somewhere to keep all questions and answers.


Your '81 should have a Z series 2.2 liter engine. To confirm look between the #2 and #3 exhaust side spark plugs on the top of the block where the head meets it. The engine size is stamped on that square flat spot on the left. Use a wire brush or sand paper. Should say Z22




Your transmission is an F4W71B.


Yes any Z series engine will bolt up to your transmission including the Z24 in the '85. To save a lengthy reply use your current flywheel and clutch on your Z22.

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