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SR20 Guys... Would you have done anything differently...


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So, Im in the very beginning stages of pondering an SR20det swap.


Just blew up my rotary swap, and wanted to go sr, just didnt want to go this soon!


Seems everyone who stays stock turbo/tuning is very happy with the performance.


Will most likely chip tune with bigger injectors and a t28, to get started.


Now that your cars are all said and done, engine is in, fab work completed, would you have done anything differently/better in hindsight?


Any reason not to stay bottom mount if keeping a stockish turbo? Like does it not fit?


Wiring, locations of stuff, what would you have done differently if you could.


I know I have to do much research, but any help you can toss my way is appreciated.



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I have a built SR, the only thing I regret is popping 2 diffs, 1 transmission and not having enough traction. 


As for install, I would recommend the wiring specialties harness instead of dealing with the cut harness from japan. If you are going to be running mods that others run ( eg 740 cc injectors, t28, 264 cams ) just go with a jim wolf tune. Anything more go full standalone. 


just my 2 cents

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My n/a rotary was over 220+/- to the wheels, so yes. I tried to get 221, and blew an apex seal. I think maybe because it was a bridgeported engine (very little torque) it was super manageable. All the hp was 5500 rpms and above.


Should I do an R200 then? I have one with a helical diff kit, but was saving it for another project.


I was under the impression you can solder in a removable chip to the ecu board, as I have a burner/programmer. Anyone do that?


The wiring specialties harness, is it a tucked/neat harness? Any pics of it.


I dont see that anyone has done a water to air intercooler, and im not really happy with the looks/fitment of air/air on these cars.


Thinking of tucking it in the dead space between the oilpan and the front frame.


How much hp/tuning capabilities are feasible with stock injectors/turbo?


Thanks. I did lots of reading last night. Seems pretty straight forward.

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Stock SR is fun....


I agree with the Wiring Specialties harness, plug and play and saves you from having a ginormous headache! I told Yuri that I was installing a megasquirt standalone system and he added the extra wiring I needed. So far I have no regrets on my swap.


Not fully built yet, but, almost there....soon hopefully. So far I have extracted over 340hp from the stock block (with very supported mods).


Good luck in your decision, whatever that may be, and most of all have fun. Let me know if you have any questions....

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Hey Guys,


Thanks for all the responses. I have removed the rotary and will be breaking it down this weekend. If it costs less than 500.00 to repair and upgrade the apex seals to 1pc. then I will rock it out for another season, or until i break it again!


10,500 redline is just an awesome sound!!


I have a full wilwood kit going on this winter, so brakes are taken care of! Gonna stay manual though :) Much cleaner look.


Def. going to stay s13-14 for the cost factor and the vtc issues, although I tuned my Q's vvt and it works flawlessly. All my reading confirms with just tuning and intercooler, I can extract 250ish out of the stock turbo/injectors, which will be fine (until its not :) )


Most likely going to use nistune and solder in a sister board. I have all of the burners and chips from tuning old vw's. Will literally cost me nothing for tuning!


What are you using for fuel lines?


I see the cxracing ones, but can find any pics of where the begin under the car (no response from them). Any one have pics?


I would love for the po to have seam welded before paint, but its done so Im taking my chances. The paint has already cracked around all 4 pillars :(


I will be repainting the engine bay in the next year or so, so I will weld it up out there then.


Thanks again for all the responses.

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Alien technology! :)


23270427693_b6d413df55_c.jpgIMG_1507 by thomas telesco, on Flickr


So the rotary is repairable for 300ish. Only broke 1 apex seal. Gotta clean up the po's bad porting job. Good thing is it already has 1pc apex seals!


Gonna slap it back in and start taking notes for the 20 install.


Thanks for all the responses!

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I don't like the CX racing parts.  headers crack and the radiator is stupid.  Who wants to remove a headlight to remove the rad..... Not this guy!  


I also agree, rack and pinion is a must!  Can't wait to swap my steering!  

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Until there is a documented, use this, use this, and use this, and it works great, I will not be adding a rack. Although Id love to!


From all the reading Ive done on it, the winning combo "seems" to be:


ae86 subframe

t3 rack adaptors (if you can only source a power steering sub-frame)

and the mr2/ae86 rack

2x drivers side inners tie rods from an '85 Toyota Cressida

outer tie rods are 510 but dont thread onto the cressida inners, threaded end had to be welded on(m14). Will any toyota ends slip into the 510 steering knuckles?


There also needs to be more clarity on the steering linkages off the column. Rumor of having to cut off the 510 splines and bolt/weld up a toyota pinch clamp.


More people need to make it happen, as I have way too may customers car to work on!


Did I miss a working, feasible, not 1000% custom fabricated set up?

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Group buy:


1. Me





Ive read about his various rack set-ups and the newest. To me it looks like a clone of the ae86. I know alot of measuring is involved in their rack to make it perfect, but they are still using the mr2 rack, so all of the above questions are still un-answered, or so it seems.


They are still working on "other stuff", so a bolt in/plug and play rack n' pinion must not be whats on everybodys x'mas list.


Lets let them know theres a market.


If my rotary holds up all next summer, I will block out 1 month next winter to get on this ish.

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O it's on our Xmas list!!!!  Seriously its amazing how many things you have to think about when doing a "bolt on" rack and pinion conversion.  The biggest hurdle is designing it so it will work if someone has a stock car or a slammed car.  Turns out it can't be done so we are just designing it for what we like and to bad to guys who don't want low cars.  


I doubt the 86 crossmember would be optimal for bump steer and such in a 510.  If I get a chance I'll have to check one out.  

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How bout an adjustable lca mounting point?


Really, its more of an up & down movement (to adjust for ride heights) but think about that. That would open you up to the entire market.


You provide "starting points" of adjustment measurements, and the owner/aligner does the rest.


Or it could be a slotted/angled adjustment.


23948847855_a939fc8f96_c.jpgrack by thomas telesco, on Flickr


You can keep the copyright on that ^ :)


Merry Christmas!!!!!!!!!!!!

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