Jamielmbrd Posted November 4, 2015 Report Share Posted November 4, 2015 I got this datsun earlier in the year and was using it as my daily. it had some problems but i had ironed them out or so i thought. It quit running on me one day just after i started it and i couldnt get it to start again. I had my doubts on it being timed right by the previous owner because when it was running it seemed to me to be lacking power. it was slightly out and the oil pump was out of time also. I have everything timed up now the way i think it should be from all the info iv been searching on this. I have changed all the gaskets on the carb that was on it because a rebuild kit came with it when i bought the truck and i thought it might be the carb that was causing it not to start. it will fire when i spray some carb cleaner down the carb so i know i have spark. I also checked compression on all 4 cylinders and thats good too. iv got another carb too for a z22 and have been trying that and it still wont run unless i put a little gas or carb cleaner down the carb. When i got it I changed all the vacuum lines too so i dont think i could have a vacuum leak. i can get an intake and carb off a z24 and i will be putting that on and trying it if i cant get the z22 one to work. Just thought i would ask here first incase i am missing anything else which could be causing it not to start. Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted November 4, 2015 Report Share Posted November 4, 2015 Sounds to me like a plugged fuel line/filter or a bad fuel pump. Or is it out of gas??? 2 Quote Link to comment
Mr.Dean_Yates Posted November 4, 2015 Report Share Posted November 4, 2015 Maybe check your fuel lines? Could have a clog somewhere? Quote Link to comment
Mr.Dean_Yates Posted November 4, 2015 Report Share Posted November 4, 2015 I had a 720 with the z24 and it started doing that to me and I never thought of checking the fuel lines and ended up selling it to a friend of mine for close to nothing. Quote Link to comment
Jamielmbrd Posted November 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2015 Yes there is half a tank of gas in it. I will check the fuel lines just to rule that out. I put a new fuel filter on it not so long ago so I don't think that is my problem. There is a mechanical pump on it and when I remove the fuel line from it to the carb and crank the engine I get a squirt of gas each time the cam pushes on it. It might be weak tho. What fuel pressure should I be getting from it? Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted November 4, 2015 Report Share Posted November 4, 2015 Regardless of fuel pressure, if you have fuel squirting out of the pipe, it's probably fine. Check the filter for particles that may be clogging it. If you see anything, it's time to go through the entire fuel system. Next thing, if you're sure the fuel supply is ok, you need to make sure the needle and seat aren't stuck. Once you verify that fuel gets into the carb, then you need to verify that the accelerator pump is working. If both of those are ok, and fuel still doesn't squirt, it's time to start blowing out all the orifices in the carb. Quote Link to comment
Jamielmbrd Posted November 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2015 OK thanks. I wasn't getting fuel up to the dot in the window in the bowl in the front of my carb so I took checked and blew out the filter going into the carb. I also took out the front cover to be sure the float and the needle were working ok. There seemed to be fuel going up to where it was supposed to be after I did this. I will check the accelerator pump later tonight. It was making a noise as if it was squinting but I couldn't see any fuel being put into the carb. I will check for sure later tonight Quote Link to comment
Mr.Dean_Yates Posted November 4, 2015 Report Share Posted November 4, 2015 maybe need to rebuild the carb. Weber dgv? Quote Link to comment
Jamielmbrd Posted November 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2015 Ya I'm starting to think it's my carb. It's a stock carb I have in it. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted November 4, 2015 Report Share Posted November 4, 2015 cycle the lankage with your hand and see if gas is shooting in the carb .when enought gas is in there it should fire off. If dont shoot gas the the bowl is empty and maybe the needle valve is stuck. You know the fuel pump is good so it cant be that as it shoots gas. It dont need alot of gas at idle so dont worry about that. If it shoots gas then is it compression. I got a truck running by changing the spark plugs(believe it or not but really it was luck) Owner was a moron. truck was flooding out. could be idle jet plugged or mixture. But if you pump the gas and keep pumping does it run. Then its running on the carb accel pump Quote Link to comment
Jamielmbrd Posted November 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2015 I will try that shortly when I get out to the garage to work on it. I think the compression is good on it I was getting 160 on all 4. My plugs should be good I changed all of them and my spark leads and distributor cap and rotor when I got the truck. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted November 7, 2015 Report Share Posted November 7, 2015 OK, you say it fires when you pour fuel down the carb, does it back fire out the carb, or does the engine actually run briefly, this is important, if it runs, then your not getting fuel, if it back fires, that could be something totally different, like timing chain went bad, and now the cam is timed wrong, you need to go back to the basics, engine at TDC, rotor pointed at #1 spark plug wire and the wires are on counter clockwise(1-3-4-2), cam pointed at 10am and 2pm, and make sure you have fuel, it will run if you have spark. I got this datsun earlier in the year and was using it as my daily. it had some problems but i had ironed them out or so i thought. It quit running on me one day just after i started it and i couldnt get it to start again. I had my doubts on it being timed right by the previous owner because when it was running it seemed to me to be lacking power. it was slightly out and the oil pump was out of time also. I have everything timed up now the way i think it should be from all the info iv been searching on this. I have changed all the gaskets on the carb that was on it because a rebuild kit came with it when i bought the truck and i thought it might be the carb that was causing it not to start. it will fire when i spray some carb cleaner down the carb so i know i have spark. I also checked compression on all 4 cylinders and thats good too. iv got another carb too for a z22 and have been trying that and it still wont run unless i put a little gas or carb cleaner down the carb. When i got it I changed all the vacuum lines too so i dont think i could have a vacuum leak. i can get an intake and carb off a z24 and i will be putting that on and trying it if i cant get the z22 one to work. Just thought i would ask here first incase i am missing anything else which could be causing it not to start. Quote Link to comment
Jamielmbrd Posted November 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2015 Yes it will run briefly if I pour fuel down the carb. I have already timed the crankshaft and camshaft and the distributor because I was unsure if it was right or not so I have everything checked that you have said. If I pump the gas peddle now before trying to start it will also run briefly. I think it's the carb now that is causing it to not start. I'm tempted to just go and order a webber 32/36 or maybe a 38 When I was thinking of getting one earlier the sales guy was trying to talk me into getting a 38 but I'm unsure which one to go for. I don't plan on doing any engine modifications just want it to be a reliable daily Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 7, 2015 Report Share Posted November 7, 2015 The 38 is too big for a Z22, it's for a V6 or small V8. You won't like it. Better to fix your problem than waste money replacing the carb. It was running, it can run again. On a cold engine (you're in Sask. tight?) take the top off the air filter and look. Choke open like this... Or closed like this... The choke must be on for cold weather starting. Quote Link to comment
Jamielmbrd Posted November 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2015 Ya I'm in Saskatchewan canada. The choke is almost fully closed its only slightly open is this right? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 7, 2015 Report Share Posted November 7, 2015 When very cold it should be fully closed to suck gas in. Try loosening the three screws on the choke heater and turn toward RICH direction. Or hold shut by hand. Quote Link to comment
Jamielmbrd Posted February 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2016 Haven't had much time to be able to work on my truck since. If I press the gas peddle maybe 10 times the truck will run for maybe a couple of seconds and shut off then. It's the only way I can get it to run. I tried adjusting idle screws but it doesn't make any difference from what I can tell. I have ordered a weber because I'm sure it's the carb that is causing my trouble. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 21, 2016 Report Share Posted February 21, 2016 The 38 is too big for a Z22, it's for a V6 or small V8. You won't like it. Better to fix your problem than waste money replacing the carb. It was running, it can run again. On a cold engine (you're in Sask. tight?) take the top off the air filter and look. Choke open like this... Or closed like this... The choke must be on for cold weather starting. Pumping the gas will squirt gas into the carb but is not a fix. The above post is the fix. Get the choke working and it will start and drive away. Quote Link to comment
Jamielmbrd Posted February 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2016 Ya i got it to run. It's idles high tho and if I press the gas a little bit it will higher but if I fully press it looses power and cuts out. If I try to drive it as soon as I let up the clutch it slowly dies and cuts out. I tried adjusting the idle mixture but it doesn't seem to be doing anything. And the idle adjustment screw doesn't seem to do anything either Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 21, 2016 Report Share Posted February 21, 2016 You can't adjust the mixture or the idle speed while the choke is on. The choke forces a rich mixture that your idle mixture has no effect on.... until the choke warms and shuts off. Now the adjusted idle mixture is totally wrong and there's a problem. Same with the idle speed. Both these are only to be adjusted when the engine is thoroughly warmed up and the idle is well below 1,000 RPMs. Quote Link to comment
Jamielmbrd Posted February 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2016 So do I just let it run until the idle drops below 1000 and then adjust the idle mixture and idle speed screws. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 28, 2016 Report Share Posted February 28, 2016 You can't adjust the mixture or the idle speed while the choke is on. The choke forces a rich mixture that your idle mixture has no effect on.... until the choke warms and shuts off. Now the adjusted idle mixture is totally wrong and there's a problem. Same with the idle speed. Both these are only to be adjusted when the engine is thoroughly warmed up and the idle is well below 1,000 RPMs. When warmed up (about 15 min) the choke should be off, or open, and the fast idle reduced. If your choke does not shut off the fast idle will be engaged. If choke is fully open the fast idle cam may just be sticking. Engine off, spray the back of the carb linkages with WD-40 and move them around to loosen. Hold the throttle open slightly while doing this. Fix the choke problem first or gas mileage will suffer. Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.