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Engine hone


720driver97

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Ball hone should cover most scenarios.

 

I hate to say this, but if you have to ask, I wonder if you know what other things to look out for. Ridges, scratches, signs of old rust, out of round, etc can all be detrimental to a cylinder bore. But within reason...

 

A lot of times, the new hone will give the rings new life, but it's negligible. Rings are so cheap, why not replace them while you have it apart?

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I know what to look for in the bore and I plan on getting new rings, the ball hone is what I plan on using I'm just not sure what grit to get a friend of mine said 400 should do it but I thought that sounded kinda low I was thinking 600 that's what I've used on the tractors I've done, this is my first time with a truck engine

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Most of the wear is right at the top of the piston travel where the top ring stops. Likely there is also a tapered ridge at this point too. You can hone all you like but it won't get in there. The ring is going to try to expand out to fill the worn area and at maximum pressure it's going to leak.

 

What grit of hone should I use on a z24 cylinders are worn out pretty bad

 

This says volumes. If this worn, get it bored out to one of the next over sizes and get new pistons. The shop that does the boring will also hone it properly. With perfectly symmetrical cylinders and finish you can use chrome faced rings and have a brand new engine and not one good for another 20K before needing this done anyway.

 

I've done both and will do it right the first time.

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Silicone carbide or aluminum oxide or ?

Again, I don't think it matters too much. The zarconia will cut faster, but in this case, I don't think you want a fast cut, you want a uniform cut. The longer it takes to hone it, the better the chances of getting a uniflrom hone. So that being the case, I would buy the least aggressive hone.

 

You know how to use one I imagine...? One-one-thou-sand count. first half going down, second half coming up. Battery powered drill on low speed. WD40 as the lubricant. Don't be shy with the WD40.

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Most of the wear is right at the top of the piston travel where the top ring stops. Likely there is also a tapered ridge at this point too. You can hone all you like but it won't get in there. The ring is going to try to expand out to fill the worn area and at maximum pressure it's going to leak.

 

 

This says volumes. If this worn, get it bored out to one of the next over sizes and get new pistons. The shop that does the boring will also hone it properly. With perfectly symmetrical cylinders and finish you can use chrome faced rings and have a brand new engine and not one good for another 20K before needing this done anyway.

 

I've done both and will do it right the first time.

I'm with you Mike. I like it to be right, but if this is a 3rd, 4th or 5th vehicle, it won't really matter.

 

The only thing I won't slide on is the ridge. If there's a ridge, it gets power honed or re-bored. If it's just a little scruffy...ball hone it.

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Ok so I brought my block to school last week and checked it with a CMM there was a small ridge .00004 and every thing else checked out good so I'm gonna ball hone it when I was trying to order it off of BRM's website they want to know what the hone is gonna be made out of and what grit, so what should I order also should I use a 4" hone?

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