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Draker

Rebuilt L20b Timing chain noise (by the oiler)

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The pan gasket is new, should be ok and survive the job.

IF it has not been super glued to the bock and front cover

 

 

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Take the valve cover off and you have a direct shot to the sound.... if it is the chain.  You might even see what's causing it while it's running. If you have a spare valve cover cut the front off and install so the oil doesn't spray all over. Taking the chain cover off is too drastic right now and you won't see or hear it running.

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I did that already. While running.. everything looked fine. No obvious slop in the chain or guide.

 

Warning oil will go everywhere.

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When I fix it, I will likely just pull the motor. Put it on the stand and fix it. It takes less than 2 hours. I have had this motor in and out many times already. One more time won't hurt.

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Sounds like a loose or broken chain guide

 

Be sure to send pics or let us know what you find

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Sounds like any L series to me.

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Sounds like any L series to me.

 

 

That's what I first thought also.But I think I heard a grinding

 

last time I had that my tensioner was out and cocked 45 deg upward thus wearing the bottom thin side of the shoe which was going to metal.

 

tother time the tight side guide I ran a longer screw in the stat housing thus pushing the guide over to much hitting the chain on the downward slope.

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It's worse now. I'll get new video some day. It's not normal.

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Try the engine running with the fan belt off.

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The longer you wait the more metal shavings go in the oil.

 

Not if it's parked. 

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Did you try it with the belt off??? This eliminates belt, alternator and water pump bearing sounds.

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Did you try it with the belt off??? This eliminates belt, alternator and water pump bearing sounds.

 

I have done nothing but walk past the car for the last few weeks. I feel like I've isolated the sound pretty well with the stethoscope. It's not a grinding noise. It's a timing chain noise.

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I wonder if a broken tooth on the crank sprocket would produce such noise....

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Take the valve cover off and you have a direct shot to the sound.... if it is the chain.  You might even see what's causing it while it's running. If you have a spare valve cover cut the front off and install so the oil doesn't spray all over. Taking the chain cover off is too drastic right now and you won't see or hear it running.

 

 

Did you try it with the belt off??? This eliminates belt, alternator and water pump bearing sounds.

 

Process of elimination. Do the easy simple things first. If you remove the timing chain cover and find nothing obviously wrong (because that's all you'll be able to do is look) then what do you do? I've seen weird things that made no sense before. Like a distributor that instead of the timing advancing it retarded as it revved up.

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Process of elimination. Do the easy simple things first. If you remove the timing chain cover and find nothing obviously wrong (because that's all you'll be able to do is look) then what do you do? I've seen weird things that made no sense before. Like a distributor that instead of the timing advancing it retarded as it revved up.

 

 

I already pulled the valve cover and ran it. The result was oil splattered all over my engine bay followed immediately by a trip to the car wash to clean it. lol. The chain was not flopping around and there was no sign of anything loose. I looked back through the thread and I guess I didn't post those details in here.

 

It's possible the oil pump/dizzy shaft is making some funky noises down at the crank. The sound is 100% coming from the drivers side by the front cover. Not the water pump, not the alternator and not even on the passenger side of the front cover. But I do totally agree with you and value your feedback. It is likely something weird. It has me puzzled.. but it distinctly sounds like a timing chain noise. I wouldn't even be concerned, except for it seems to be getting worse.

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Not good. Well it will have to be obvious like something loose or broken. Crank bolt tight? Did I ask this yet? It holds the oil slinger, spindle drive and chain drive snug on the crank. I think 100-120 ft lbs?

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Yeah, it's tight, and torqued.

 

Not good. Well it will have to be obvious like something loose or broken. Crank bolt tight? Did I ask this yet? It holds the oil slinger, spindle drive and chain drive snug on the crank. I think 100-120 ft lbs?

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Yeah.. it's possible I open it up and find nothing at all.

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Look on the underside of the water pump behind the pulley. There's a weeping hole. Is there any indication that it's been leaking any coolant?

 

Lwaterpump014Large.jpg

 

 

If the seal fails, this lets the water out so it doesn't get into the bearing and seize it. It will eventually, but it's assumed the owner will find this first and replace the pump. You have to take the pump off anyway to remove the timing cover. Just give it a spin, see if the bearing is iffy.

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Bearing is tight and spins good. No signs of failure here.

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