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LZ2.3 stroker long rod?


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I have been reading the Jason Grey write up and others build treads about all the diferent combinations. I have the long rods but have not yet decided what combo to go with. The 2.1 long rods seams very popular at the moment. I am interested in a Dailey street motor. Large displacement high torque numbers and a reasonable rpm range. I also want that old school L motor look. I was wanting to see if anyone has used the long rods on the stroker and would there be any benefit? May be a silly question I know. I am no engine builder for sure. Just thinking and know there is a lot of knowledge here.

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L20B and all Z22 truck Z22 rods are identical. S110 (200sx) car Z22 rods are the same as L20B rods except after Jan '82 build date. Used with KA24E pistons and Z22 crank you have a large bore 2.3. Theoretical red line is about 6,500 RPMs.


There is no 2.3 long rod engine.

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Z22 bottom end.




I've never hit 6 grand.


6,500 is the estimated (safe) redline based on a 4,000 feet per minute piston speed on stock parts. If you get into forged pistons and lightened forged aluminum rods and special cap bolts then this can be higher but for now 4,000 feet /min is about it.


To hit 6K, and still not be out of steam, you will likely need a 'larger' cam, head work, maybe headers and multiple carbs. For a big bore stroker like this you don't really need to. It should pull plenty hard enough below 5K to satisfy anyone..

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I don't really need anything beyond 6k although it sounds fun. Bottom end torque seems more often used and fun. My reason for asking about the long rod was that the claim of better balanced geometry or smoother running. I guess that only becomes an issue at high RPMs. Is that right? I want to mate this with the modified A87 peanut head that has been worked a bit. Large valves lard port. Not sure on cam yet. Along with su carbs. Not sure if su carbs left stock would not bee enough.

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When people refer to the Long Rod 2.3, sometimes they are referring to the 89mm bore, Z22 stroke, N85 long rod motor. Rebello calls that one a 2.3 because it is close.


To use the N85 (6") rod with a 92mm Z22 stroke you would need a special custom piston right? Something with a pin height of 29mm or less. There are no 89mm 29mm pin height Nissan parts nor are they available to the average builder. Saying there is no long rod LZ 2.3  in the spirit and scope of the Jason Gray specifications. Rebello may have one but not available to the average guy.

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Ok, thanks. That being said. The use of the 6" rods and custom pistons, this will help in case of engine harmonics? And if so, at what RPM range does the stroker motor start to get the shakes? I know the race engine builders are not going to tell all that they do on their builds.

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The L20B and Z20 cranks are the same and fully counter weighted and smoother spinning at high revs. Z22 and Z24 cranks are not. These will vibrate more but counter weights can be welded on and everything rotating, lightened and well balanced. Can't see doing this on a street engine, but can on a race engine that never goes below 6K.

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Cp built the pistons for my lz23, i have the z22/l20b rods in it, shot peened and arp bolted and reconditioned. It gets buzzed to 7000 quite often. They can build ya pistons so you can use the long rods.


As for the crank, get it balanced along with the rods, i wouldnt be too concerned with the z22 cranks, mines smooth, actually smoother on the high end than the old l20b was. They wont have to do much, but its noticable. Actually of all my parts my flywheel was off the most, followed by the pressure plate.


If harmonics scare ya, buy a bhj balancer or an ati super damper for it.


I put the ati on mine as ive used them on other things, but then you have some pulley trickery to figure out.

If i ever build a good one from scratch again ill put the bhj on it.

Think with no harmonic damping what that does to your timing chain, etc.

4 banger l motors didnt have dampers, but the z's did. I didnt have much faith in a 30 year old balancer either.


If u wanna do it on the cheaper side, id just do a z22 bottom end with flat tops and put the l head on, a moderate street cam and call it done. Side drafts of course.. Of the weber 45 flavor, unless the su's are good and at the right price.

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