Reindexing and shocks questions

[SickDrift]

Ive been reading alot of the old threads about reindexing torsions, installing blocks, installing shocks but havent found definitave answers.

 

1] How much does reindexing one spline actually lower a vehicle?

2] What are the short shocks recommended for the rear of a truck when lowered?

 

I'm about to do the work and want to make sure I have the right info. Thanks in advance!

 

 

Laurence

[slodat]

http://forum.ratsun.net/showthread.php?t=2129&highlight=torsion

...

[Pacific coast Datsun]

I reindex'd the torsions on both my 521 & 620. I ended up going more than just a "few" splines ;) The 620 has raised shock towers & i can still run stock shocks & i have a few inches of travel. Moving them just 1 spline wont be that much of a drop.

[]2eDeYe]

I didn't even have to re-index one of my torsion bars. I re-indexed a while after I dropped it.

 

Can you measure the difference when you drop yours? It would be a nice bit of tech :cool:

 

Never had a problem with the rear shocks. The rear has alot more uptravel than the front.

[Pacific coast Datsun]

Steve if you remember how i did my 521 torsions..it was easy. 1st i measured the gap between the top of wheel well & the tire, then jacked the truck up & jack standed the frame, then jacked up the lower control arm & removed the torsion bar, then jacked it up more until the gap [or lack of] was at the ride height i wanted, then simply reinserted the torsions & put it back on the ground. Somewhere in my old 521 thread theres pics of the process.

[]2eDeYe]

The process is easy, I'm hoping he can get a definitive drop measurement for one spline of rotation before adjusting the bolt.

 

I don't have torsion bars on my truck anymore, so this would be more for those that still have them :D

[Bleach]

Moving them just 1 spline wont be that much of a drop

On my 620 kingcab I had not modified the towers or done a C notch in back. 2 splines was way too much. Tightening the torsion bolts all the way after a 2 spline re-index did not even bring the truck off the front suspension. The upper a-arm was jammed solid into the 15" wheel. I couldn't move!

 

1 spline was probably a 3.5-4" drop by itself. But you do the 1 spline reindex and then adjust the nut on the bolt to the height you want.

 

As for rear shocks, I wish I knew of some good ones. I used front 1980's Caddy shocks but turned them upside down to isntall in back AND I had to use 2" extenions. the extensions aren't bad but I learned later you're not supposed to turn a shock over. The are designed to work better with one side up. :blink:

[]2eDeYe]

If your using just drop blocks in the rear, the shock travel remains the same as stock ;)

[SickDrift]

2eDeYe;83614'']If your using just drop blocks in the rear, the shock travel remains the same as stock ;)

 

Really? Im not looking at it right now, but if would seem that stuffing that axle closer to the frame would shorten the distance between mounting points. I'll have to look at it later. I guess I will document measurements while I do it, and will report back.

 

** Update ** Got to look beneath and found what you were talking about. With the blocks it doesnt appear that the distance from the bottom to the top shock mounts will increase or decrease. The axle will only be relocated closer to the frame.

[SickDrift]

http://forum.ratsun.net/showthread.php?t=2129&highlight=torsion

...

 

Thanks for the link, but having looked through it already, I wasnt able to find the specific answers to my questions.

[SickDrift]

Well I ordered some Toxic Shocks from Stylin Concepts (part numbers: 413518(f), 418520®) as Summit didnt have them in stock, and Stylin Concepts has 10% off orders of $100 or more; it ended up being less than what Summit would have charged anyway.

 

One I receive these I will post regarding the install.

[]2eDeYe]

Try to get that measurement :D

[SickDrift]

2eDeYe;83694'']Try to get that measurement :D

 

 

Will do.

[SickDrift]

So, after having read this post (http://forum.ratsun.net/showpost.php?p=30556&postcount=4), I'm still confused. Do I need to remove the torsion bolts completely to reindex the torsion bars. Which side are the spines on that I am reindexing, at the front by the front wheel, or at the rear where the cross member is?

[Pacific coast Datsun]

The only part that you actually remove[other than the C clip] is the part in this pic......

the splines are on the inside.

[SickDrift]

The only part that you actually remove[other than the C clip] is the part in this pic......

the splines are on the inside.

 

I spent an hour under my truck trying to figure this out. So, the splines are on the shaft and fit into a splined place in the crossmember? And as in the picture above I have to remove those bolts that hold that bracket in place? I ask as that detail is omitted in all the instructionals I have seen. It will probably take me two hours to remove those bolts by hand, ther is so much shit on the threads at the top. Soooooooooo frustrating. Installing the blocks on the rear was much, so much easier......

[]2eDeYe]

This might help. Thanks for the pic Fineline :)

 

 

Once you get the bolts loose you have to pound out the lever arm and then rotate it. The splines might pull out at the control arm...that's ok mark it first at both endds, pound, then rotate and reassemble.

 

Don't forget to measure the drop :D

[SickDrift]

2eDeYe;86297']This might help. Thanks for the pic Fineline :)

 

 

Once you get the bolts loose you have to pound out the lever arm and then rotate it. The splines might pull out at the control arm...that's ok mark it first at both endds' date=' pound, then rotate and reassemble.

 

Don't forget to measure the drop :D[/quote']

 

 

Thanks for the picture. So I only have to loosen the bolts and not remove them? I guess I went into this thinking it would be less work than the rear was. I will make sure I document my numbers.

[Pacific coast Datsun]

Good pic Steve..thanks. The torsion bolts dont take that long to remove really. Like i said before..i reindex'd the torsions on my 521 at the lower control arm & was easier than the other way i did my 620. Keep in mind the 521 & 620 torsion crossmembers are different. The torsion bolts must be REMOVED in this process.

[SickDrift]

Good pic Steve..thanks. The torsion bolts dont take that long to remove really. Like i said before..i reindex'd the torsions on my 521 at the lower control arm & was easier than the other way i did my 620. Keep in mind the 521 & 620 torsion crossmembers are different. The torsion bolts must be REMOVED in this process.

 

I'm gonna try tomorrow. I think I have some sorta mental block or something thats preventing me from doing this. This seems more complicated than when I flipped the balljoint mount on my b2000... I'm counting it being safer though.;)

[SickDrift]

To those of you who have reindexed your torsion bars... while you have the truck suspended after having reindexed your torsion bars, is the bolt loose where it supports at the bottom on the torsion bracket (as indicated in the picture below)? Mine is moved 2(?) splines.

[]2eDeYe]

That end will want to rotate up with the weight of the truck on it.

 

It's really hard to tell where it will settle until you put weight on it and move the truck a bit.

[SickDrift]

Ok, cool, just wanted to make sure Im not doing things wrong. So if there is some play there Im ok? Ive put it on the ground and gained about 3 inches, but like I said there is play there at the bottom. I cant put thought together right now, I need some food.

 

I should have lots of pics for tomorrow.

[yello620]

You havent installed the adjuster bolts yet and you only gained 3 inches when you put it on the ground?

Sounds like it is resting on the bumpstops to me. You need to remove the bumpstops, set your ride height and cut you bump stops shorter, i would make them so that you have about 1/4" clearance to the control arm. You can always cut more off later. I would reinstall the bumpstops before you test drive it though.

 

 

Jason

[SickDrift]

You havent installed the adjuster bolts yet and you only gained 3 inches when you put it on the ground?

Sounds like it is resting on the bumpstops to me. You need to remove the bumpstops, set your ride height and cut you bump stops shorter, i would make them so that you have about 1/4" clearance to the control arm. You can always cut more off later. I would reinstall the bumpstops before you test drive it though.

 

 

Jason

 

Hey Jason,

 

I'm sorry I wasnt more specific. Adjuster bolt (I've only done one side so far) has been installed, and only backed off 1/3 available bolt length. Bump stop has been removed. The reason I don't back the bolt off more is because while I have the truck suspended the bolt is loose with a clearance of 1/4 inch. If I back off the bolt more I would be concerned that the bolt could come loose at some point during driving, or later servicing. I wish I had someone here who could look at what I have and tell me if it's right or wrong.

 

Tomorrow I will be providing detailed pics, with a details of my frustrations regarding why it took me 4 hours to do one side.