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damaged lz 2.2 fs, header and misc parts


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i have a 2.2 block that has been setup for the l series head the motor is complete minus intake carbs and dizzy it spun a rod bearing on #3 cylinder it is tore down but complete crank is iffy rod is bent all 4 pistons good stock bore with decent holes hone and go! i have a w58 head id let go with it also have a matching round port hedman truck header that has been modifyed to fit in a l20b 510 chassis. I also have a l16 manifold it was a smogged but ive welded the holes up, also have the down tube for it also, L16 non smog intake manifold, also have a 2 peice weber adapter for l16 to 2.2 engines. make offers fellas id like to get it outta here possible trade for 510 stuff. can get pics also if needed.

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For some reason this z22 is interesting me a lot.

 

Has anybody turned down the counterweights on the z24 crank before? I read the Jason Grey info, but no details on the crank machining that i found.

I have access to a lathe that should be large enough to accept a Z24 crank. Do the counterweights just need machined down and then have the crankshaft balanced?

 

Just sounds like a fun project.

 

What you want for the block?

 

Jason

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I've been told the z 2.4 crank is a lot of work and not really worth it when you could just run a already done 2.4 a lot dude talk about them cracking but I've never seen one personally I'd let the block got for 75with all the intake I'd let got for 15 bucks

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For some reason this z22 is interesting me a lot.

 

Has anybody turned down the counterweights on the z24 crank before? I read the Jason Grey info, but no details on the crank machining that i found.

I have access to a lathe that should be large enough to accept a Z24 crank. Do the counterweights just need machined down and then have the crankshaft balanced?

 

Just sounds like a fun project.

Jason

 

I've been told the z 2.4 crank is a lot of work and not really worth it when you could just run a already done 2.4 a lot dude talk about them cracking but I've never seen one personally I'd let the block got for 75with all the intake I'd let got for 15 bucks

 

some one stuffed the z24 guts in a l20 b4 but i cant remember who it was. you can fit a z24 in a truck easyer then a dime i would think. nellson has a z24 that is rebuilt but has a bad ring he will part with.

 

There's a reason the Z24 is taller. The longer stroke puts the rod far out to the side actually pulling the piston sideways as it approaches and leaves TDC. Lengthening the rod and placing the piston higher in a taller block reduces this. The Z24 is about 2cm taller than the L20B which is 2cm taller than the stock 510 engine.

 

Besides trimming the counter weights, the block has to be trimmed as well. All this work to make a Z24...... in a Z22/L20B block????? Well you can use the L20B timing chain/sprockets/cover and stuff with the L head.

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Yea I'd I have seen the "trimming" process on a block at z therapy its more like let's take a angle grinder and go to town till the block is so thin its almost useless no offense to anyone but making motor mounts or possibly spacing the crossmember in a 510 to fit a z2.4 under the hood seems like a way better option to me.

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Hey, I would like to get that Non-smog intake from you if Lynchfourtwenty decides against it. Maybe it could be arranged to make it my way via fastdadd? You two travel back and forth occasionally dont you? I am not really in a hurry, just avoiding shipping freight.

 

What kind of 510 parts are you looking for? Weber? EI dizzy?

 

Jason

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Yea... its almost useless ...

 

motor mounts or possibly spacing the crossmember in a 510 to fit a z2.4 under the hood seems like a way better option to me.

useless and not worth the time & $$$.

thanks to those who pioneered and saved me from doing it!!!

 

 

 

whats wrong with an ugly bump in the hood? creates instant intrest :lol:

lowering the motor (mounts) ~2cm would be worth the effort! using a 69 crossmember helps a little too.

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25 for the header 75 for the whole lz motor find a crank and a #3 rod and hone, re ring re bearing some gaskets ya got a perfectly good lz engine oh and a l20 or whatever flywheel. w58 head is the only down fall but not terrible better than a 210 casting head.

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What you talkin' bout?

 

The 210 had much smaller valves and ports than the W-58. It (the 210) was designed for the L13 (or L14 I forget) and was used as a stock L16 head. The W-58 only needs the ports hogged out slightly to equal the L16SSS head. It's a true L20B head and cam. If it has a draw back it might be the exhaust liners, but that is debatable. Easily removed if the valves are ever out.

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????? what? now im confused are you saying the 210 is a better head than the w58? never heard of that before

 

this motor may need a crank not sure a machine shop will have to figure that out it does need a #3 rod and a flywheel (may have one of those somewhere) the bores are in good shape you could hone it and re ring the stock pistons and have a good engine. i just need the room and i dont need it. the dipstick and everthing has been moved already and i have all the l series componets that were on it.

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so it was a running lz22?? so i wouldnt need to modify anything to make it work.. just get a new crank (maybe) replace rod bearings an crank bearings.. front an rear main seals.. new piston rings.. and it would be a workin engine? what timing chain setup would i use? could i use my a87 peanut head?

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yea it was a running engine ran good to ask mr. klotz he rode in the car when it was together the oil line blew off going down i205 and spun a bearing the only mod needed is a modifyed head gasket for th l head and timing cover. pretty easy to do the timing chain was in good shape as were the runners etc etc even the head is in nice condition. I would not use a closed chamber head the compression would be crazy high. even with a open chamber head i'm guessing compression around the 9.5 ratio.

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You said:

w58 head is the only down fall but not terrible better than a 210 casting head.

 

Maybe I misunderstood you. I thought you meant the W-58 was not terribly better than the 210 casting.

 

 

 

I said:

What you talkin' bout?

 

The 210 had much smaller valves and ports than the W-58. It (the 210) was designed for the L13 (or L14 I forget) and was used as a stock L16 head. The W-58 only needs the ports hogged out slightly to equal the L16SSS head. It's a true L20B head and cam. If it has a draw back it might be the exhaust liners, but that is debatable. Easily removed if the valves are ever out.

 

I'm saying that the W-58 would be a much better head than the 210 casting for all the above reasons.

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have you looked at the crank or are u just guessing its bad?? im just not sure how easy it'd be to get another.. guess i'd grab the rod needed an crank all at once.. can a z24 crank be used without mods?? does that make it a lz23?

 

The engine deck height (center line of crank to top of cylinders) are the same for the L20B and the Z22, so the L20B timing cover and ALL the timing chain/guides/tensioner/sprocket/pulley... everything from an L20B is a perfect fit.

 

You cannot put a Z24 crank into the Z22 block without trimming the counterweights and grinding reliefs in the block. Do-able, been done, but don't you do it.

 

You can put any L head you want on it. You will have to use an L20B h/g and maybe punch out a couple of coolant holes that don't line up.

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