Justin Berni Posted September 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2014 I plan to paint the hold soon, just a few other things I gotta take care of first. I rattle canned an old truck of mine and it looked surprisingly good, I think I'll be able to make the hood look fine, just won't match the rest of the truck unfortunately. Quote Link to comment
Justin Berni Posted September 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2014 Also if anyone I'm vancouver/Portland area has just two 195/70/15 tires, or close to that size, even if they are bald I'd like to buy them if you'll sell cheap. I want to stretch those onto my other wheels and see if I can make them work. Quote Link to comment
Justin Berni Posted September 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2014 What's this part? Right under dash on oassenger side. It's making a buzzing sound when the truck is running.. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 14, 2014 Report Share Posted September 14, 2014 Large one? fuel pump relay. Oh, a buzzing? that's the smaller one the auto choke relay. You have to have alternator output or it will buzz. Quote Link to comment
Justin Berni Posted September 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2014 Yeah the smaller one is the one buzzing, are you saying I'm having a problem with my alternator? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 14, 2014 Report Share Posted September 14, 2014 Possibly. The relay needs a charging alternator to hold the relay on to power the choke heater. Some 720 owners complain it buzzes at idle only. Warm your truck up fully and take the top off the air filter and look at the choke plate. Is it fully open? If yes then the heater is at least working. If not, the relay is the cause, or better to say... something is not allowing the relay to do it's job. Does the charge light glow faintly in the dash? Measure the battery voltage with the engine running....should be14+ volts. Quote Link to comment
Justin Berni Posted September 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2014 Battery light hasn't been on at all. The oil light flickers sometimes tho, don't think that's related but I should probly look in to it. It buzzed once until the truck warmed up, than never had the problem again. Than today it started and wouldn't go away. I'll have to go to autozone or something to check the voltage since I don't have a multimeter or anything. Thanks for the help tho. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 14, 2014 Report Share Posted September 14, 2014 Oil light can be two things. Somewhere the wire to the sender is rubbing against a ground. This will turn it on or flicker but there is nothing wrong with the oil pressure. If it flickers while driving this is the most likely. If it flickers at idle, your oil pressure is possibly dangerously low. The sender reacts to 5-8 PSI or lower. Extremely worn bearings will lower idle oil pressure. Very thin oil will also. Is it due for an oil change? Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted September 14, 2014 Report Share Posted September 14, 2014 Does the battery light come on when you turn the key on before you start it? Battery light hasn't been on at all.The oil light flickers sometimes tho, don't think that's related but I should probly look in to it.It buzzed once until the truck warmed up, than never had the problem again. Than today it started and wouldn't go away.I'll have to go to autozone or something to check the voltage since I don't have a multimeter or anything. Thanks for the help tho. Quote Link to comment
Justin Berni Posted September 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2014 Yeah battery light comes on when key is on while engine is off. And I've never seen the oil light come on at idle, so I'll have to find and trace that wire and see if it's rubbing a ground or something, seems like it happens more on a bumpy road so that would make sense. Is also due for an oil change, so I'll have to do that when I have the extra 12 bucks for oil haha Quote Link to comment
Justin Berni Posted September 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2014 Actually the oil light comes on right when I start the engine, comes on and stays for maybe 5 seconds, than goes away, than will flicker sometimes while driver Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 14, 2014 Report Share Posted September 14, 2014 That's fairly reasonable. Fresh oil is 'thicker', try 15x40 Dello400 or 15X40 Rotella T. Besides being thicker it has a reasonable ZDDT level still. Quote Link to comment
Justin Berni Posted September 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2014 That's fairly reasonable. Fresh oil is 'thicker', try 15x40 Dello400 or 15X40 Rotella T. Besides being thicker it has a reasonable ZDDT level still. Alright I'm gonna change the oil soon, and see if that wire is touching a ground like you mentioned and see what happens. And check my alternator out. Thanks for the help guys, I'll let you know how it goes. Quote Link to comment
Justin Berni Posted September 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2014 So I havnt done much except for lower the front until it sat level with the rear, it close to level, and today I painted the valve cover blue, idk if I want to leave it blue or strip it to bare metal than clear coat it, so what do you guys think?? dia/B434B3FE-C35E-43D5-A2AC-8C0C0719B0CF_zpsvjl0t5qi.jpg.html][/url] 1 Quote Link to comment
_chiefjt Posted September 22, 2014 Report Share Posted September 22, 2014 Valve cover looks good, I like the color. I use to smoke my tires but they don't smoke so easy now cause my clutch slips and I don't hold it very long, maybe like a few seconds. lol Quote Link to comment
Justin Berni Posted September 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2014 These tires are already bald and I have better ones that I'm gonna put on when it starts raining so I roast them whenever I'm out cruising with friends cuz I'm the only one with enough power to do it hahah Quote Link to comment
Justin Berni Posted September 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2014 Incase anyone was wondering, I got my oil light to stop coming on.. Oil change, new filter, and used 15/40 this time like Mike, and a friend both said I should try. So thanks Mike. Quote Link to comment
_chiefjt Posted September 24, 2014 Report Share Posted September 24, 2014 lol. & good job on that oil light thing. Quote Link to comment
Justin Berni Posted October 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2014 Little update. Truck has been good. I pulled my bumper off because the mounts were bent and I think It looks cool without it, I'm sure I'll get plenty of hate for it though, but I like it. I also put a little breather filter on my valve cover so I didn't need a hose from the valve cover to the carb.. Just got a new job so I'll be making a lot more progress soon. Might start saving for drop spindles, but before that I'm gonna get tires. Also I'm gonna ditch this 3" block and get 4" blocks, so I'll have a 5" drop in the back, should be cool. Before all that I'm gonna do a full tune up on what I havnt done already though. New plugs, wires, fuel filter, coolant flush, what else? I've already re-torqued my head bolts and changed the oil and filter.. I'm gonna find a new way to mount these turn signals soon, preferably not with zip ties.. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 6, 2014 Report Share Posted October 6, 2014 The bottom of the weber air filter has an opening for that hose. All you need is the plastic elbow. Quote Link to comment
Justin Berni Posted October 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2014 The bottom of the weber air filter has an opening for that hose. All you need is the plastic elbow. I have that elbow and I had the hose for that, but I think this little filter looks a bit cleaner, Quote Link to comment
Justin Berni Posted October 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2014 I'm trying to clean the engine bay up as best as I can. Thinking about deleting the charcoal canister, will that make any difference to how the engine runs? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 6, 2014 Report Share Posted October 6, 2014 Under full throttle the blow by overcomes the PCV valve and the air flow reverses and blows out the valve cover vent. Both filter the air but the carb set up will suck these fumes back into the engine to be burned. Those little filters a cute but they don't keep the fumes out of the cab. Quote Link to comment
Justin Berni Posted October 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2014 Under full throttle the blow by overcomes the PCV valve and the air flow reverses and blows out the valve cover vent. Both filter the air but the carb set up will suck these fumes back into the engine to be burned. Those little filters a cute but they don't keep the fumes out of the cab. My exhaust is currently cut off directly under the cab so it already stinks in there anyways Quote Link to comment
Fat510 Posted October 6, 2014 Report Share Posted October 6, 2014 My exhaust is currently cut off directly under the cab so it already stinks in there anyways But what do you say about the charcoal canister Mike? Bad idea to remove? The canister keeps the cab from selling like gas, but it won't make a difference on how the truck runs Quote Link to comment
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