video: how to reindex.

[Oilspot]

Taking the nuts off the torsion adjusting bolts, after them not being touched for 50 years was taking forever. One third of a turn at a time. All the way till the end with both the adjusting and lock nut. 

So I Shit "welded" a cheap harbor freight 3/4 - 1/2" driver into a 1/2" drive socket. Now I've got a 3/4" square driver perfect for the torsion adjusting bolts. 

The second side took maybe 2 minutes to get all the way undone with the ol' impact. 

Edited August 30, 2021 by Oilspot

[mainer311]

Ingenuity knows no bounds.

[Oilspot]

Hey just a note!

If your gonna impact the bolts out... Don't brace the wrench holding the nut from spinning against your driveshaft!!!! 

 

A driveshaft looks like a beefy chunk of steel, but in actuality it's  made of super thin wall material. I'd hate to have someone trash their stuff trying to save time. I've done that plenty of times in my life, and man it sucks! 

Edited August 30, 2021 by Oilspot

[pidge]

Hey guys I’m sorta deep into this and running into some concerns and I could use some quick help........I’ve pulled the driver side torsion and turned it one spline counter clockwise. That part went easy. I took the above advice and lifted the control arm to achieve this by the way. The issue I’m having right now is the far back portion is loose when I go to tighten it. I took a measurement and got 2-1/2” to the under side of the key to inside of the crossmember before I began. When I go to the same distance after the reindex the key is loose and the bolt with the two nuts is as well. Not sure how tight I’ve gotta go with the bolt with the two nuts. I’ve tightened it up only to lose some of the lowering effect. When I back it out I gain, but it becomes loose. FWIW I have 3” blocks in the rear. Should I go two splines and snug the bolt with the two nuts tight with no load on the suspension?  The last three pics are of the passenger side that I haven’t touched yet. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited May 7, 2022 by pidge

[mklotz70]

Did you let the suspension back down?  If I'm not mistaken, since you're using the reindexing to get your lowering effect, the bolt with two nuts should stay in the same place.  If it's loose, it's probably because there's no load on the suspension.  It's been over a decade since I did it to my NL320......then I put it back after I Z'd the LCA's.

[pidge]

Yes I did Mike. The key was snug after I let it down. I’m concerned leaving it like this and going over a bump. Would the key kinda flop around? I kinda think it would. I just pulled the torsion bar again and clocked it two spines this time. The bolt with the two nuts is showing a lot more thread now when tightened and the key is way up in the cross member more than before by about an inch when I measure it. From my understanding the more I tighten the bolt with the two nuts it in turn lifts the front a bit every turn. I’m okay with that as long as the key is snug. As soon as I took the load off with the one spline and put the key back to the distance I found it it was loose. Now with two splines, the bolt wound in a lot further I’m getting the same amount of lowering with the key a lot tighter. Apologize if I’m sounding messed up just got off night shift. 

[pidge]

Thanks again Mike for your insight. Appreciate it sir. I got fed up due to lack of sleep and went two splines each and tightened the bolts until I was okay with how snug/tight they were. Went for a rip of course and everything feels good thus far. Got it home and started staring at it and the driver side is lower than the passenger. After working on it this morning I’m confident I can just adjust the bolts with the two nuts on one side or the other. Thanks again Mike sir. 
-Pidge 

 

if a mod can turn the photos please. Always happens for some reason. Thank you. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited May 10, 2022 by pidge

[mklotz70]

You're welcome.  The driver's side bar is probably a bit different from having the driver's weight on it for so many years.