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Can we revisit the Alternator / external regulator once more for fun?


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I've read all about headlights and brackets, even saw a picture of 4 wires going to the external regulator spliced together but I'm to slow to get it done.


I'm all good with mounting and all the different output alternators but am failing when it come to jumping out the external voltage regulator.


I just need to know which wires to connect together at the external regulator. My 1976 620 pickup has a round connector with 6 wires. The regulator hasn't worked for some time now and I'm tired of the boat battery connectors so I can unhook the battery so it wont drain down. I don't want to replace the external regulator.


 I've gathered several internally regulated alternators over the years in anticipation of installing one. I think I'm good with the wiring down at the alternator but not there yet at the external reg. mounted on my fenderwell.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------OK -------------

At the regulator plug I've got

Yellow - to f or n on alt.

White/Blk - same as above

White/red - charge light / dash cluster

White/blu - thru dash cluster to temp

White - positive battery, maybe alt output

Black - ground


I think in order listed above they are:

N, F, L, IG, A, E.  my Haynes manual is not too clear on 1976 620. They still show a mechanical voltage reg. with contacts.


And if that's not confusing enough the auto choke relay has been missing, just unplugged and discarded years ago.


Which of those 6 wires, (and I think only 4) need to connect to each other?  I know the alternator threads have been beaten to death but my eyes are blurry from reading.


If it matters which alternator I'm gonna use, lets go with the Saturn with a S, IF, L, P, and BAT.


Thanks so much.  Here is a picture for ya.



Keep it simple. I probably shouldnt show the next pic. Here is what happens when yoy think you can replace the ball bearing plate in a EL Dizzy.....,..,,,





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White/Red to White/Black.... and White to Yellow. Remove the other pins and wires so there's no chance of them touching anything.




This will cause the automatic choke heater relay to be on at all times and slowly drain the battery over several days. Disconnect the choke relay. Now on your carb find the Blue choke heater wire and join to the Red idle cut solenoid wire beside it. They are the only two wires on the stock carb. The idle cut solenoid will provide power to the auto choke now instead of the disconnected relay.

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Yellow jumps to white, white/black jumps to white/red.


^^^ what Mike said


Slip a piece of shrink tubing over one side of each pair, twist the wires tightly together, solder, fold the soldered joint over against the jacket of one wire, slip the shrink tube over it & shrink it, repeat for other pair = clean

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Just hook your positive straight from the battery to the body somewhere.  Good to go.


Should I shave the the hair off or does it matter what part of the body?


If you use battery cables when doing this, you will get the added bite from the jagged clamps on the cables!.... She tells me it's better that way. 

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What? Positive to body???

I just assumed he was having some fun. Everyone here probably got their alternator straight years ago. Not me.




After overhauling the engine It ran like shit. I decided to get rid of the old coil that requires a resistor. Used the distributor that requires the HEI or Datsun brain box  and try to deliver 14 volts to the system rather than a slowly draining battery.


After readjusting the valve lash, taking my time to get it just right. Changed the carb to one thats a little newer and bigger(not much). Used a timing light to get in the ballpark. It fired right up and ran so much smoother. I think every change helped some. Especially the 14 volts to a new 79 electronic coil. (The plugs were gaped for such).


I've got plenty of bugs to work out including putting the fenders and hood  back on, but man it fires up on the 1st spark like it did when it was running good years ago.


I can tell my brakes need adjusted out and I may need a booster replaced or vacuum check.





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