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ignition control module mounting location?


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Exact project that I'm working on at the moment. The module on my 78 longbed went out over a cold spell that we had a couple weeks ago. It sat for several weeks while I drove a couple other cars and when I went out to start her about a week ago; no fire. I checked it all out, referring to Ratsun in the process and decided to do the GM module change-over. I hotwired one in yesterday and, Viola, fired right up and ran better than ever. I'm gonna do the permanent mount today. Probably gonna mount it on an aluminum plate (heatsink) where the original module was at top of right kickpanel as shown in photo by OP.

 I think I like this so much that I'll be looking at incorporating the late 70's non-matchbox dizzy & GM module into the rebuild of the E1 engine in my 320 pickup. I believe that Mike K detailed the dizzy change-over in one of his write-ups. This just has to be one of the most informative and helpful forums that I visit for the varied interests, hobbies, endeavors that I have. Thanks y'all.


By the way, I checked on a Nissan module and it was about $200. Gave about $20 for the GM unit. They can be had for $15 or less on Ebay.



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The HEI is mounted inside a GM dizzy with little air circulation so mounting anywhere outside is fine. Maybe a small aluminum plate with 'legs' to raise it slightly above the inner fender. There will be more than plenty of air circulation from the rad fan. Mount beside the coil and tape the wires and cover with that split harness covering for a neat look. You can also get a dab of silicon heat sink compound from a computer store.

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Completed the GM HEI module install this afternoon with a little help from a great big dirty martini. Here's the original with connector unplugged.




I made a base plate from 1/4" aluminum for a heatsink using the original module to establish mounting holes. Broke out the solderr & heatshrink and made up little pigtails to connect the new module with the original connector on the loom. Mounted the module to the baseplate using the heatt transfer grease that came with the new module.




Mounted the new assembly back in the original location and plugged in to priginal loom connector.




Then a little buzz about town to celebrate with a big smile on both my face and also the little 'Longbed's' face.



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Forgot to add in last post: the procedure is reversible in ten minutes or less. Just unbolt the unit and put original module back in, if available, and plug back in. No wires were cut or changed in changing to the GM module.

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I did something kinda similar. I had to figure out the spark on a 620. Well a Matchbox dizzy in a 78 caused the issue. Traced the wires. Made 2 jumpers at the missing box. And wala, the truck was wired for a matchbox. I think I jumped the green to Blue/white, and red to black... or that is backwards.

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