81sunnyson Posted January 10, 2014 Report Share Posted January 10, 2014 is there a tool i can use to compress my springs to install, and can i use a universal type that would usually be used on domestic v8 springs? or is it only possible with a specialized datsun valve spring compressing tool? i am trying to reassemble an H89 head i believe wanted a cheap tool or something i can grab at sears or autozone if possible Quote Link to comment
Eagle_Adam Posted January 10, 2014 Report Share Posted January 10, 2014 i use this tool http://www.sears.com/craftsman-valve-spring-compressor/p-00947627000P?sid=IDx01192011x000001&kpid=00947627000&kispla=00947627000P Quote Link to comment
Eagle_Adam Posted January 10, 2014 Report Share Posted January 10, 2014 these work too, autozone rents em http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Tools-Garage-and-Equipment/Valve-Spring-Compressor/_/N-274h Quote Link to comment
81sunnyson Posted January 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2014 dude u r awesome let me ask u this..... ever work on the spring with head still on the block in the car? i used synthetic oil and maybe hurt my seals. either way my valve lash is off and i have oil on my plug 3. also at some point want to put new seals on but try with head in car. if i air compress the spark plug hole to keep the valve up, can i service these in the car? and what tool will work with that? if not just pull the head, gasket, and go all out Quote Link to comment
datsunaholic Posted January 10, 2014 Report Share Posted January 10, 2014 EagleAdam's top link is the one that works best in my experience, IF the head is off the engine. The 2nd link is for if the head is still on the block, which requires blocking the valves in some way (compressed air, rope in the cyl, etc). There is also a lever-type that worlks well in some applications. I've used all 3 types with various success. Domestic-type compressors work OK on A-series heads as long as they're small enough. More modern Nissan engines can't use them because the head casting surrounds the springs on 3 sides, but that's not a problem on any pre-1982 designs. Quote Link to comment
Eagle_Adam Posted January 10, 2014 Report Share Posted January 10, 2014 personally, id just pull the head cus its an A series and there no timing chain to mess with Quote Link to comment
Eagle_Adam Posted January 10, 2014 Report Share Posted January 10, 2014 ever work on the spring with head still on the block in the car? yes.... once....... never again, i have the knowledge, tools, time and $ to do it "right" Quote Link to comment
81sunnyson Posted January 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2014 well think i have some slack in the chain too. vacuum has plagued me for a while...just figured out leaky valve could be culprit i retarded the distributor the other day to help tune. got my idle down and also set my fast idle better causing i was backfiring thru the exhaust. actually had blue flames out the exhaust ( maybe the dollar store gas treatment is cheap nitrous) my cat was burnt thru so i pulled that and stock muffler and im running a redhots glasspack with 2" outlets. sounds great back to distributor. if i rotate the balancer the rotor is just a slight delay as i turn but depends on direction. lash definately off since the summer when i didnt tighten the rockers and had a push rod come loose. set it back on but didnt do lash correctly with tdc on piston for 2468 valves. i just did tdc piston one oil on plug three so thats why im using cheap octane booster gas treatment stuff to help Quote Link to comment
81sunnyson Posted January 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2014 wonder if vacuum advance is ok... stalls when i brake. as engine warms or if i get of hwy more vacuum is present... not as much if im just on the street or dont rev it. choke is wide open since its cold and helps my throttle response stay decent. as the distributor is sitting now, the advance is almost parallel with the block and alternator. i just turned it and listened to idle and set it there. i just cant quit get the idle back to stock rpm range without stalling Quote Link to comment
81sunnyson Posted January 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2014 im running to bosch platinum plug on outer two cylinders and autolite 64s in the two middle cylinder. havent seen much oil on the two middle plugs since doing that yesterday. with all autolites usually get an oily plug and drivability is bad. i pull them out and spray with carb cleaner but that is getting old every morning. Quote Link to comment
Eagle_Adam Posted January 10, 2014 Report Share Posted January 10, 2014 fuck auto lites bro, NGK or go home Quote Link to comment
81sunnyson Posted January 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2014 yea autolites ....were in the motor when i got it, but he was a toyota guy.ha when things werent so awry with the valves, they would get fluffy when i added the gas treatment. even new plugs. they foul easily. these bosch's are old and used and still better. ever try those E3 fancy plugs? Quote Link to comment
Eagle_Adam Posted January 10, 2014 Report Share Posted January 10, 2014 not in a datsun, NGK ONLY Quote Link to comment
Tucson620 Posted January 10, 2014 Report Share Posted January 10, 2014 Re: Working with head in car - these are hard to find in the U.S. anymore, not enough SOHV engines. But you can get them from the U.K. I got one and used it to swap valve seals. Was pretty fast once you got hang of it - like 5-10 mins. per valve. You have to keep valve from falling into cylinder - air-tool hookup if you're a risk taker, or just stuff rope/vinyl tubing via the spark plug hole. ETA: Not sure how this would work for H89 head - you need to hook over camshaft on either side of rocker. I used on L20/L28 heads. Quote Link to comment
81sunnyson Posted January 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2014 wow looks like a tow ratchet Quote Link to comment
81sunnyson Posted January 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2014 so tired of oily plugs like driving with a spark plug wire disconnected Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted January 10, 2014 Report Share Posted January 10, 2014 Re: Working with head in car - these are hard to find in the U.S. anymore, not enough SOHV engines. But you can get them from the U.K. I got one and used it to swap valve seals. Was pretty fast once you got hang of it - like 5-10 mins. per valve. You have to keep valve from falling into cylinder - air-tool hookup if you're a risk taker, or just stuff rope/vinyl tubing via the spark plug hole. ETA: Not sure how this would work for H89 head - you need to hook over camshaft on either side of rocker. I used on L20/L28 heads. I got the local parts store to order me one...made by KD Tools. PN - KD-3087 They had it in stock at one of their larger (Canadian) stores. 1 Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted January 10, 2014 Report Share Posted January 10, 2014 That won't help with your OHV engine. Instead just use a simple tool. For your H89 head, see http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=Valve_Seals 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 11, 2014 Report Share Posted January 11, 2014 i used synthetic oil and maybe hurt my seals. .Synthetic oil won't hurt valve seals. It's a waste of money on our older cars. Run 15w40 Dello 400 or Rotella T and a NAPA Gold or Wix (NOT a fram) oil filter. i retarded the distributor the other day to help tune. got my idle down and also set my fast idle better causing i was backfiring thru the exhaust. actually had blue flames out the exhaust ( maybe the dollar store gas treatment is cheap nitrous) my cat was burnt thru so i pulled that and stock muffler and im running a redhots glasspack with 2" outlets. sounds great Get your motor timed properly. Don't guess at it or go by ear. What fast idle? Fast idle is only on when the motor is cold and choke is on. back to distributor. if i rotate the balancer the rotor is just a slight delay as i turn but depends on direction. lash definately off since the summer when i didnt tighten the rockers and had a push rod come loose. set it back on but didnt do lash correctly with tdc on piston for 2468 valves. i just did tdc piston one Balancer? Again get or have someone set your timing properly to spec. 2468 valves? Don't follow. oil on plug three so thats why im using cheap octane booster gas treatment stuff to help You don't need octane booster or gas treatment, they don't do shit for an oil burner. GET YOUR TIMING SET PROPERLY.GET YOUR VALVE LASH SET PROPERLY.NOW TINKER WITH THE CARB IDLE SPEED AND MIXTURE im running to bosch platinum plug on outer two cylinders and autolite 64s in the two middle cylinder. havent seen much oil on the two middle plugs since doing that yesterday. with all autolites usually get an oily plug and drivability is bad. i pull them out and spray with carb cleaner but that is getting old every morning. This is wack. GET THE CORRECT NGK PLUGS FOR YOUR A SERIES ENGINE You wonder why it doesn't idle or run right has blue flames out the back.... and you have two other different makes of plugs in it???? Christ knows what reach and heat ranges they are. This motor isn't half Audi and half Ford. ever try those E3 fancy plugs? You have GOT to be kidding. E3s are a fucking bad joke and we all laugh at people with them. Quote Link to comment
Tucson620 Posted January 11, 2014 Report Share Posted January 11, 2014 You have GOT to be kidding. E3s are a fucking bad joke and we all laugh at people with them. NGK fo life! :badass gang sign w/fingers and shit: Quote Link to comment
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