Kins720 Posted December 2, 2013 Report Share Posted December 2, 2013 (edited) Hi all, just signed up on the forum today. Found it when I was searching for what kind of welder I should get on Google. Lucky for me! I've had a 720 for a long time until I was shipped overseas back in 99, when I came back of course I went and got another one! The first one was an 86, the one I have now is an 85. Bought it back in 2007, since then I've changed the shocks, rims, carb, did a bunch of other stuff. When I was done the previous owner wanted to buy it back :no: . Enough of the history, the reason I'm posting is because I've seen some mention on certain posts about deleting the emissions on the Z24 which I would like to do. Here in Texas there is no emissions test for vehicles that are older than 20 years. If someone can direct me to the post it would be very much appreciated as I can't seem to find it. Once I figure out how to link the pictures (I'm sure there's a how to post on the forum, I think I saw it when I was looking for the post on emissions) Thanks! Found the post on pics. Hope this works. This one is the 85 that I have now This is a pic of the 86 Edited December 2, 2013 by Kins720 Quote Link to comment
Kins720 Posted December 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2013 I forgot to mention, I replaced the Hitachi with a Weber 2 barrel 32/36 DGEV. Quote Link to comment
DaveZilla Posted December 3, 2013 Report Share Posted December 3, 2013 Welcome to the forum!... You're in the right place if you want to know everythign there is to know about these trucks and the Z series engines... There's a lot you can search about deleting the emissions on these, but to keep things simple, you can easily delete everything by buying a set of manifold plugs, then get rid of everything vacuum operated except for the dizzy advance... On mine I took out Everything except the EGR, which I'll be making a set of block off plates and welding the tube that comes out of the exhaust manifold shut., I also took out the O2 sensor and replaced it with a wideband which helped me tune my Weber considerably by taking the guesswork out of it all. My engine bay went from this... (oops.. I was too quick and deleted the charcoal canister already) To This... pretty much overnight... Then my latest project this last weekend was the water pump delete mod so I can run electric fans... I'm still not done but got the water pump in and wiring up the fan now... Here's a mock up pic where everything is sitting in place but not yet installed... There's a huge amount of free space up front without the stock fan not to mention this frees up a little extra power to the wheels which these trucks need so badly... my last project before this was to put in a 280zx high performance clutch and Fidanza flywheel... Everything from the flywheel to the throwout bearing for the 280zx bolts right on with no modifications needed... Old clutch and new parts... And all installed before buttoning back up... Really, none of these mods actually Add power except the Weber carb, but they all free up a certain amount of power to the wheels, so with the carb adding Maybe another 5 hp and better low end torque, everything else added up may give me another 5 to 10 extra to the wheels... I've also done mods and upgrades to the interior and made sure the AC works (we definitely need that here in Texas), but hadn't messed with the exterior of the truck yet so it looks old and rundown until you get inside... lol. Anyway, feel free to ask me anything, if I got the answer I'll help, if not, I usually know who can help... Welcome aboard Quote Link to comment
Kins720 Posted December 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2013 Thanks for the reply and the welcome! Awesome pics you posted, also those mods you did are interesting as well. I might do the same thing in the future. The engine bay does look so much cleaner without all the clutter there. I noticed you plugged off all the holes in your intake manifold. Was it trial and error for the plugs or are they all the same size? The carb on your truck looks different from the one I have, mine has a line that goes to the canister for the float bowl. Do I just plug that one up too? Here's a pic of the stripped dash when I first got the truck After it was done, it was sort of rushed Truck sitting in the garage right now. Going to clean up the engine bay and remove and treat the rust. Here's with the hood and everything else removed. Hopefully I get done before the weekend. Quote Link to comment
DaveZilla Posted December 3, 2013 Report Share Posted December 3, 2013 The manifold plugs come in a kit, mine are made by spectre, and i got it from advancs auto, most parts stores sell these plug kits for around $20 or less and theres enough plugs to do your manifold and have a few left over... Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted December 3, 2013 Report Share Posted December 3, 2013 Or you can go to your local auto parts store and purchase individual plugs. They are pipe threads, standard sizes, not rare. Quote Link to comment
DaveZilla Posted December 3, 2013 Report Share Posted December 3, 2013 Also for my carb... Its not a weber, its a holley 2300 series, the same as the weber 32_36 but an exact mirror image of it, it uses all weber internals as well, you can probably see in the pics the choke is on the opposite side, and i had fun making a throttle cable bracket since the throttle rotates the opposite direction as well... Basically mine is the Weber dfav but manufactured by holley... Reason i got it was because it was about 1/3 the cost of the weber after it was all set up and installed Oh yeah... your interior looks Sweet :thumbup: Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted December 3, 2013 Report Share Posted December 3, 2013 Do you mean Holley 5200? The Holley 2300 is basically half of a 4-bbl Holley. If I recall correctly the Holley 5210 is licensed version of Weber DFV (mirror image of Weber DGV 32/36) while the Holley 5200 is the licensed version of DGV. Quote Link to comment
DaveZilla Posted December 3, 2013 Report Share Posted December 3, 2013 Youre right... This is the 5200 series holley, the same as the Weber dfv series, Mine is actually the same as the Weber DFAV and I got all the jets and the electric choke from webercarbsdirect.com when I needed to tune it proper for this engine... I got a 350cfm 2300 Im modding to run under boost for my next big upgrade to the truck, but Im still a way from being ready to install the turbo, mainly because of some clearance issues if I use the KA turbo manifold so I need to get a hold of or make some flanges and weld els to locate the turbo out of the way of the master cylinder better... Right now it'll fit but it's REALLY close to the master cylinder and I don't want that much heat that close to it. That's another story tho and I'll post more in detail in another post when I start that upgrade... For now Im more focused on keeping the truck on the road during the winter months, then I can do the upgrades this spring when I'll be riding the bikes to work etc instead of driving... but for now im happy with the mods already done. Quote Link to comment
DaveZilla Posted December 3, 2013 Report Share Posted December 3, 2013 Or you can go to your local auto parts store and purchase individual plugs. They are pipe threads, standard sizes, not rare. This is also correct, I just got the kit because they were there and it was convenient, Everything is either 1/8, 1/4, or 3/8 pipe thread on the manifold so one could easily just buy the individual plugs Quote Link to comment
Kins720 Posted December 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2013 Awesome info Davezilla and ggzilla! Thanks for the help. I was working on the rust on the radiator support and came to the conclusion that it needs to be replaced. Ordered one on ebay and just waiting for it to arrive so I can replace it. I've pulled out most of the emissions stuff aside from the EGR as well. I'm thinking about using one of the metal pieces that help the emissions stuff to make a plate to cover the hole for the EGR on the manifold. I guess I could do that while waiting for the support to get here. I had installed pacesetter headers already so exhaust portion to the EGR had already been plugged. I'll be moving this month, so I may have to put this project on hold until I get a job (retiring from the military). But I will post pics as I complete each portion of work. By the way, looking at all these 4X4s has got me searching the craigslist adds every now and then to find a deal, lol. Quote Link to comment
DaveZilla Posted December 5, 2013 Report Share Posted December 5, 2013 Haha... I got mine looking on craigslist for a cheap car for my son to drive a few years ago, I saw the 4x4 badge in one of the pics so i had to go look at it, it was in poor shape and the interior was shot from being out in the weather with the windows down for several years, and when I asked if it ran, the guy went to his garage and grabbed a battery and a gas can, we poured some gas down the carb and it fired right up, next thing Im giving him $600 and we trailered it to my house... Um sorry son... This one's mine.... Yeah I kept the truck for me but we got him a 92 stanza a few months later. Anyway, it didnt take much to get it roadworthy and its been my daily driver ever since.... There are deals out there, just keep your eyes open... Im also looking for a 620 so i can put the 620 body on my 4x4 frame, but I'll keep working the 720 and keep improving it til I find a body for it with the right price... Quote Link to comment
Kins720 Posted December 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2013 DaveZilla I was looking at your engine bay pic and noticed that the fuel tank line is still in the engine bay. Did you cap where the line terminated in the engine bay or at the fuel tank? Also, do I have to keep that line that runs from the brake booster to the manifold? It's been pretty cold lately so haven't been in the garage to work on the truck. Will post pics when I get done. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted December 8, 2013 Report Share Posted December 8, 2013 Whatever you do, don't cap the fuel tank vent line. The tank needs to vent otherwise you can lose power or stop the engine intermittently. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 8, 2013 Report Share Posted December 8, 2013 You know I see people all the time deleting their 'pollution crap' and what for? Has no effect on running, won't run better, and on the Z24 will even give poorer mileage. Many have no idea what the smog controls do. Here is a perfect example. The fuel line into the engine bay is the vent pipe from the tank. The charcoal canister saves these fumes and burns them. Without the canister the fumes have to go somewhere and likely into the cab. . The hose from the intake has nothing to do with pollution control. It's for the brake booster... Removing it will disable your brake power assist!!!! "You always fear what you don't know"..... Carmine Falcone to Rachel Dawes in Batman Begins. Research what 'stuff' does and it will be way easier to live with than ripping 'stuff' out and the problems this causes. Quote Link to comment
Nissan_Boy85 Posted December 8, 2013 Report Share Posted December 8, 2013 The 280zx info was nice to know, I never knew that. How did you do the fan delete? Quote Link to comment
Z-train Posted December 8, 2013 Report Share Posted December 8, 2013 You know I see people all the time deleting their 'pollution crap' and what for? Has no effect on running, won't run better, and on the Z24 will even give poorer mileage. Many have no idea what the smog controls do. Here is a perfect example. The fuel line into the engine bay is the vent pipe from the tank. The charcoal canister saves these fumes and burns them. Without the canister the fumes have to go somewhere and likely into the cab. . The hose from the intake has nothing to do with pollution control. It's for the brake booster... Removing it will disable your brake power assist!!!! "You always fear what you don't know"..... Carmine Falcone to Rachel Dawes in Batman Begins. Research what 'stuff' does and it will be way easier to live with that ripping 'stuff' out and the problems this causes. Read this again.After you're done-read it a third time. Quote Link to comment
Kins720 Posted December 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2013 Thanks for letting me know about the vent line ggzilla, it's a good thing I have this forum with all the people and the knowledge to let me know things before I find out the hard way. Also to Datzenmike for the info on the brake assist line. I understand what you're saying, but the smog crap is still going getting pulled out :sweat: Quote Link to comment
Z-train Posted December 9, 2013 Report Share Posted December 9, 2013 EGR isn't SMOG crap".ANd I'll bet money that the law in Tejas says you still have to have it,regardless of inspection intervals. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 9, 2013 Report Share Posted December 9, 2013 Thanks for letting me know about the vent line ggzilla, it's a good thing I have this forum with all the people and the knowledge to let me know things before I find out the hard way. Also to Datzenmike for the info on the brake assist line. I understand what you're saying, but the smog crap is still going getting pulled out :sweat: . I have no problems with someone removing smog stuff... as long as it's done for the right reasons and done right. Quote Link to comment
Kins720 Posted December 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2013 (edited) Lol, Z-Train, I said earlier it was emissions, and I did read Datzenmikes post 3 times and made my decision. He was the one that said it was smog crap. And here in El Paso, if a vehicle is older than 24 years it's considered an antique. These vehicles are exempt from smog testing. I stand corrected. It was pollution crap. Sorry. I guess I should've mentioned in the earlier postings that the exhaust manifold, exhaust and cam were replaced, so the gas mileage was already compromised. Edited December 9, 2013 by Kins720 1 Quote Link to comment
Z-train Posted December 9, 2013 Report Share Posted December 9, 2013 Kins-I'll bet you money that you still are "required" to have it on the vehicle.SHould some Johnny Law get a bug up his ass,you could be in a jam.And other than looks-you are gaining nothing. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted December 9, 2013 Report Share Posted December 9, 2013 If the emission controls are faulty they can make the engine run or idle quite poorly. In that case they should be changed. In Texas it is illegal to remove antipollution equipment from a road operated vehicle, regardless of age. Quote Link to comment
Kins720 Posted December 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2013 Wow, how did this thread get like this? The thread went from "how do you do it" to "you shouldn't be doing it". I'm sorry if I offended anyone, just wanted to know how it's done since I've seen quite a few pics on this forum of vehicle engine bays that do not have the equipment. I bought the truck with the intention of fixing up for show, but put it off due to deployments and moving with the military. I'm about to retire in a few months and started working on it again after I took the truck out of storage. I don't plan to retire in Texas, and if I do end up in a state that requires smog, I will ship the truck to my brother in Guam. 1 Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted December 9, 2013 Report Share Posted December 9, 2013 It ended up this way because someone implied smog equipment is not required for some states and some vehicles. Quote Link to comment
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