ggzilla Posted February 11, 2014 Report Share Posted February 11, 2014 Is at idle I adjusted the timing light so that the mark lines up with 0degrees Don't do that. Set the light to zero then check the timing mark and see if it is on 10° when idling. If it is off a little rotate the distributor. Then take it for a spin. If it runs good, revs to 7000 in first gear and doesn't ping all is OK. Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted February 11, 2014 Report Share Posted February 11, 2014 Z20/22 and Z24s have the saw tooth timing scale also and the 'same' as for the L20B side near the alternator. Actually there is a slight difference in the scale but if you look the zero is in the same place on all. Just clockwise of the mounting bolt. L20B ('79) Z24 ( lol Went out and took these pictures 5 min ago. L20B in driveway, Z24 in back yard and L20B timing cover in the stash pile. -9C / 16F friggin cold not used to it. Big Dog called me a pussy!!!) Interesting Mike, my L20B in my '75 has those exact same timing tabs on it. Are you saying these only came on late blocks? Quote Link to comment
Ed-datsun521 Posted February 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2014 So I don't know I drove it again today it ran super strong really well the. I get up to about 3rd gear and it just sputters and wants to die idle is fine but I give it has and it don't really work should I check the carburator now maybe it got clogged up Also check the spark and when I unplugged the second spark plug nothing happened but when I unplug any other spark plug it starts to die I don't get it switched wires and spark plugs and no difference at all it also has spark I can clearly see it has spark there What could it be and could this cause the engine to kinda bog out ? And the spark wires are at 1-3-4-2 on the cover of the dis Should I switch the wires I don't get it!!! Did I lose cylinder 2??? Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted February 11, 2014 Report Share Posted February 11, 2014 1-3-4-2 going clockwise or anti-clockwise? Quote Link to comment
Ed-datsun521 Posted February 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2014 Yeah CCW Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted February 11, 2014 Report Share Posted February 11, 2014 And does it run fine in 2nd at 40 MPH? But sputters at the same MPH in 3rd? To determine if you lost cylinder #2, give it a compression test. Quote Link to comment
Ed-datsun521 Posted February 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2014 Yeah it runs good at that's speed for like the first time I get it up to speed it goes baaaam baaaaam burrppp Then it just starts to run stupid Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted February 11, 2014 Report Share Posted February 11, 2014 Is this a dual point dizzy? try disconnect the 2nd set of points. the one with the smaller capcitor then try again. thern you rnow its a 3rd gear switch thing. But really I never seen one in a 521 and I have 1 myself but its just a guess on my part that its the 2nd set of points not timmed right or your ignition timming is off whne it gets faster up to spees or you got a restricted fuel line or something like that. is bushing on dixxy good? no side to side movement where it could opne the points? will give a poping /cutting out type proplem. Oh on your timming light dont use the dial type. use a standard type light ir set yours to zero. at basic idle you should be around 7-12degs BTDC and your in the middle of the timming plate or slight adv on it and have alot of room for adjustment if you wanted too. If the dizzy is cranked all the way to one side to to get 10deg you might be off a tooth on the dizzy spindal. Quote Link to comment
Ed-datsun521 Posted February 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2014 Ok so I got the timing in there set and adjusted the valves and now it's running strong on a cylinders idle is really good now Now the only problem is how the power just cuts off while I'm driving as if the pump was not pumping ?? But there is gas in the carb I can see it there what could be causing this ? Drives perfect then starts to back fire and kinda choke and runs out of power like if I really ran out of gas then I have. To clutch it and gas it go get it to go the sputters and it will just keep doing that till it dies then starts right Back up no problem until I get it up to speed or of I play with the throttle And single pionts L16 with w53 head stock carb stock coil new points new Ngk spark plugs new condenser Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted February 12, 2014 Report Share Posted February 12, 2014 get it running rev up the motor then put your hand on the main side of carb hole while you open up the vacuum 2ndary butterfly. If you 2nd side of carb works it should stay running. if not maybe the jet is plugged but otherwise make sure its timmed. fell the coil in case its hot but if its stock coil and ballast 95% i bet its OK. this is a simple fix we are just overlooking soemthing . remeber its 40years old and something is giving out, Quote Link to comment
smoke Posted February 12, 2014 Report Share Posted February 12, 2014 Clogged fuel filter will do what you're describing. Maybe the screen at the carb even. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted February 12, 2014 Report Share Posted February 12, 2014 What I would do is change the filter and drain the fuel bowl. You may have to drain the bowl twice before it totally clears up. Quote Link to comment
graveltrapp Posted February 13, 2014 Report Share Posted February 13, 2014 Does distributor have a vacum advance? If so is vacum hose hooked up and not torn or loose? My R16 had similar conditions and it turned out to be the advance not keeping up at highway speeds and under load. Quote Link to comment
Ed-datsun521 Posted February 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2014 Ok everyone so I just got this fixed no more coolant leaks no more bogging ! More powaaaaarr So I decided to change the headgasket because of some coolant leak and didn't want the oil to mix and then I would have to rebuild the whole thing and the PO has just had it "rebuild " but I well im happy now ! Now it runs so strong ! I was running on 3 cylinders the whole time I owned the truck the valves was just staying open I guess ? I adjusted all the valves and when I turned it on omg so loud and strong ! But the bogging continued so I just did the cleaning on the carb I sprayed that motherf*cker down! Like 1 -1/2 cans of cleaner all over the jets and bowl and everything ! Then turn it on! Burnt off the cleaner now it idles so smooth I love my lil truck even more ! Now just install my chevy wheels rally I just got and I'll be smiling every single time I drive it thanks ratsun!!! And all you guys for your help Also on a side note my gas pedal completely broke off but I got my welder handy gonna super weld that thang on ! To many power shifts turns out I was losing half the pedal throw to it being so lose ! Quote Link to comment
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