79 DD K/C

[Eric Garside]

Picked this beauty up in Helena a couple weeks ago. Had a busted fuel line, fixed that and it fired right up even with old gas in it.

 

The first issue is that it doesn't matter how long I turn it over it won't fire/start up until I release the key, what could cause that?

 

Second issue is the headlights, running lights, windshield wipers, tach, and cigarette lighter doesn't work. The turn signals, heater, oil light, seat belt light, horn, fuel gauge, and temp gauge all work. All fuses are in place and not blown, I can't find any unplugged wires/connections other than the radio. What do the relays under the good operate, could one of those be my issue?

 

The truck desperately needs floorboards and a bath but it seems to be a solid investment. Now I will pay for your knowledge with some oics!

 

This is written on the core support, looks like compression #'s, haven't run a test to confirm yet

 

 

Plans are to clean it up, get it reliable, and daily driving it!

[Eric Garside]

Sorry for the typos, using my phone to post. :/

[datzenmike]

 

I don't see the fusible link on the + battery post. Anyway get a test lamp and check the fuse box half should have power all the time the other half when the ignition is on. Throw the fuses away they can't be trusted jusy on looks. Clean the clips that hold them too.

[Eric Garside]

The link was undone for that picture as I was replacing the battery terminal. I will replace all the fuses and get back to you.

 

Any ideas on the starting of the truck? It won't actually start up until I release the key from the start position

[Labdork]

Score!!  And I'll even take a stab at the starting question... If my memory serves me correctly, the ignition switch bypasses the ballast resistor and provides the full 12V to the coil while in the "start" position. Once in the "run" position, juice is routed through the ballast and drops by some unknown (to me) voltage. If the switch is bad, the coil doesn't get any power in the "start" position. Anybody?? Bueller?

[Eric Garside]

Seems legit, I have an extra ignition with matching door locks so I will test that out.

 

I will see if I can get some work done tonight, it gets dark so damn early now that it makes it hard to get motivated after work.

[datzenmike]

The link was undone for that picture as I was replacing the battery terminal. I will replace all the fuses and get back to you.

 

Any ideas on the starting of the truck? It won't actually start up until I release the key from the start position

.

Sounds like there isn't power to the EI dizzy in the crank position. There should be.

 

Get a test lamp and see if there is power on the coil + while someone cranks it. Could be the ignition switch or the plug contacts.

[]2eDeYe]

Nice score, should clean up great.

 

A test light on the + side of the coil while someone is cranking would be the first step in troubleshooting that issue. :)

[datzenmike]

I would have to say the ignition switch is at fault. The same power wire in the ON position is also the same wire that is supposed to be ON when cranking. Should be the Black/White stripe wire coming from the switch.

 

This is not true of the earlier points ignitions that have separate run and a start wire to get around the ballast resistor.

[Eric Garside]

I have posted in some of the "we want the old Ratsun back" threads mostly because I preferred the old classifieds but no matter what anyone says this will always be the most helpful and friendly forum I have ever been privilege enough to be member of! Thanks to everyone for your contributions, support, and unlimited patients ;).

 

 

The ignition switch was the culprit of issue number one. Haven't looked into issue number two yet but will keep you posted.

 

Spent tonight cleaning/removing the nasty old carpet.

 

The rust in the floor pans is very extensive :(

[Eric Garside]

Update!!

 

Mike was right, don't trust the fuses. Got those replaced and the headlights work! Still no wipers but I think it's the motor because I can here the relay under the dash clicking.

 

I have a new problem that I need help with;

 

This was connecting the two wires but when I moved it it fell apart

 

So I spliced them together but then I was getting a short in the ignition. The truck won't start with them disconnected so what happened??

[datzenmike]

Black/Red strips should go to one side of a condenser or capacitor. The other capacitor side goes to ground. It's for noise suppression and will run disconnected. (connected together is no good and will ground the power to the coil/dizzy) That Black/Red wire should splice into the main Black/White power wire to the coil+ and the EI dizzy.

[Eric Garside]

Thanks!

 

I messed up my ignition switch :(. I guess that's why it's always good to have a spare!

 

Today I got the inside cleaned, the oil changed, and some wiring fixed. My clutch practically falls to the floor on its own and the brakes are very spongy as well. I ordered up a mightyvac and should have that tomorrow so I can bleed all the lines. Why do they lose pressure after sitting for awhile?

[jastrunk97]

I want the wheels and tach....:P Good luck with your build though! :D I will be following it :)

[Eric Garside]

Thanks! I have wanted turbines forever, they would be better if they were 15's ;)

[jastrunk97]

My dad has those and they are 15's :D

[Eric Garside]

I'm jealous! ;)

 

My turn signals aren't working. I have tried two different switches and tried to different of what I think to be the flasher... My hazard work and flash at normal speed, what gives?

[datzenmike]

There should be two flashers close by each other. Find and swap them ... if the 4 ways stop and the signals start then the unit was bad.

 

There is power to the 4 way switch at all times just like the clock, interior light, brake lights and all lighting. The key needs to be on for the signals. Key ON passes power to one side of the fuse box that then provides for the heater, wiper, radio etc.

[Eric Garside]

I think both my signal switches might be bad... I tried a combination of the flashers that I have (unknown working condition) and the turn signals won't work with any of them. With certain flashers the hazards flash fast and don't illuminate on the outside, with the flasher combo that allows the hazards to function properly, neither of my signal switches will turn on the turn signals.

 

Do they sell these old style flashers at the parts stores? That would be the cheapest easiest way to check.

 

Anyways, I made some progress today.

 

Found it in a D50 pickup but the tags were for a Mighty Max. It's a little big but it's comfy, was cheap, and super easy to bolt in. Just had to drill four new holes and bolt it down.

The hole to the left was the stock hole, had to move it out 13/16" on each side.

 

 

 

I am also struggling to get my clutch to work :(. I bled the line and put new fluid in using me new MightyVac I ordered through work and it still doesn't have any pressure and won't move the clutch fork at all. Should I replace the slave and/or master cylinder?

 

 

Also scored an L16 intake for an emissions delete.

 

And found a 32/36 on an A13 motor in a 520

 

 

Thanks for all the help, guys!!

[Eagle_Adam]

not a bad little truck!

[jastrunk97]

I am also struggling to get my clutch to work  :(. I bled the line and put new fluid in using me new MightyVac I ordered through work and it still doesn't have any pressure and won't move the clutch fork at all. Should I replace the slave and/or master cylinder?

 

I would replace both, I am wanting to replace my slave as it it leaking alittle bit...Both are super easy and quick.

[Eric Garside]

I think I isolated my turn signal problem to the brake light switch. I will report back more when I get it swapped out.

 

I think my clutch problem is the master so I ordered one and will get it replaced, I'll let you know my findings

[PandaStar]

I love those wheels wish I could find a set around here.

[GRpufnstuf]

I love those wheels wish I could find a set around here.

LOL Pandastar, you location says USA. I bet you could find a set of Americna Racing Vector wheels somewhere in that territory.

 

Turbines are easy... http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/pts/4202376012.html

 

Vectors a little tougher in 6 lug but...

[Eric Garside]

Update!

 

I have three weber carbs that I am going to use to put together one good one for this truck. Which one is better or are they the same? Two say "Made in Italy", I would think these are the better ones but one of the Italy ones has plastic floats... Should I use the made in Italy one and replace the plastic floats for the brass ones or does it even matter? Let me know what you guys think.

 

Carb #1 (Made in Italy)

 

Carb #2 (Unknown origin)