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Slave cylinder doesn't fit


PineClone

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At the tail end of my auto to 5-speed swap. Went to install the slave cylinder and it doesn't fit. And what i mean by that is with the push rod fully depressed, I need about 1/4 to 1/2 inch more room to get the bolt holes lined up. If i were to actuate the fork with a pliers to get it out of the way, i could then bolt on the slave, but i don't think i want that kind of constant pressure on the slave, and it also may result in the clutch being partially engaged at all times.

 

If this was a threaded push rod (and drilled a hole in the fork), i don't think this would be a problem. However, it makes me wonder if i have a larger issue here (release bearing too thick??). Using a pliers, i can actuate the clutch fork and it acts like it should. I'm hoping i don't need to tear everything apart...

 

My slave cyl is the Rhino Pack item 603

 

Anyone run into this before?

 

Thanks!

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Once I had a similar situation happen.  In my case, the slave cylinder had a built up pressure so that it wouldn't retract all the way.  I think I or someone else must have depressed the clutch without the slave connected to the clutch fork?  I'm not really sure what happened.  Anyway, somehow the slave more or less exploded on me.  The piston popped out and so did all of the hydraulic fluid.  Once I put everything back together, the pushrod was able to completely retract.  I of course then had to bleed the system after that.

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This is a brand new cylinder with no fluid. I'm 99% sure i am depressing the push rod the full distance. Its either the wrong slave or i have a larger issue.

 

By the way, i'm curious what the difference is between the 4-speed slave and the 5-speed. The Rhino Pack brand has the 24 spline and the 18 spline (depending on which clutch kit you need). 

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i was going to mention that some aftermarket companies are notorious for having too short/long of a rod.
ive seen it before. sometimes people swap the rods between old/new set ups (run new slave with old rod?)

aslo, you may be able to adjust the clutch pedal within the cab...

here is how you would do it on a z32,

http://specialtyz.com/blog/?page_id=178

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usually there are 2 types of rods with a slave . key is whhick clutch fork you using. If you usina 510 one you nned to use the 510 threaded rod with the half ball end with Jam nut,

If using a 5 speed one should order the 200sx slave cylinder as it come with a different rod. Most slaves are the same its the rod thay will be different.

 

re edit : this is for the Lseries motors swap since you have a 210 I would thoink it might be similar

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No luck yet. Was thinking of ordering a different brand to see what i end up with...but haven't bitten the bullet yet. 

A helpful measurement would be from the front of the bracket on the slave (where the bolt holes are) to the front edge of the collar. I'm not convinced that the pushrod is too short. (edit...too LONG).

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I haven't even started my 5 speed swap yet. I need to sell my honey bee first (I have two B210's) but if it helps I can take pics of the clutch fork and the way it fits in the transmission. I model the slave on mine and it seems to fit just fine. Let me know.

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I haven't even started my 5 speed swap yet. I need to sell my honey bee first (I have two B210's) but if it helps I can take pics of the clutch fork and the way it fits in the transmission. I model the slave on mine and it seems to fit just fine. Let me know.

The yellow one?!?!!? aw but that ones nice :.( I'm still working on finding my last bolt and then I can finally get to a swap!

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My bad...Too long.

I ran into the same problem with my dogleg swap. I used a Z slave (240z??) and the rod was too long.  I initially tried drilling the arm and it is really a bitch, I'm not sure it it is hardened or what but I could not get it to drill. I ended up just shortening the rod.

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