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521 rear cylinders


laotsu

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doing a total overhaul of the brakes on my '71 521 and I ordered all new cylinders, flex lines, and a new master from Rock Auto. well I got two different rear cylinders under the same part # one is a 13/16 and the other is a 3/4 the part description calls them out as 13/16 which is what came off of the truck. I call Rock Auto and they send me a new part right away, gues what... it's another 3/4. So right now they are trying to figure out why they cant  seem to send me another right sized cylinder and my truck is out of commission until I get the new parts. 

 

my question is, can I just install the 3/4 cylinders? What is the difference between the two? On a side note, what size are the stock hard lines and flare nuts in my truck? I have read elsewhere on here they are 3/8 but the flare nuts are larger more like 7/16 or 11 mm. do either of those sizes seem right?

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The difference between 13/16 and 3/4 is 1/16.  Use the same size on each side, it really does not matter which.

13/16 will give you slightly more pressure on the back wheels, and all other things being equal, would tend to lock up the rear wheels slightly sooner under hard braking.

 

Stock flare nut size is 3/8-24.  You measure bolts on the threaded part, not by the side of wrench that fits the hex, which for the stock flare nuts is 7/16.

 

Body fasteners on your 521 are all SAE, from the factory.  Engine and transmission bolts are metric.  Fluid fittings on the engine are BSP

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I just did rear cylinders on mine. The hex head on mine was 11mm. Simple repair.

 

Except the old 43yr old cylinders did not want to come off at all!!!!! Took a bit of pounding and workin to get them to separate from the backing plate

same here, but a drift punch made it all cake.

 

I'm having a bitch of a time with the hard lines, I will definitely have to replace the two fronts and might just go for doing all the hard lines.

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same here, but a drift punch made it all cake.

 

I'm having a bitch of a time with the hard lines, I will definitely have to replace the two fronts and might just go for doing all the hard lines.

I used my 1/2 inch drive 2ft long extension through the cylinder and worked it back and forth. Took a while but it worked.

 

I got lucky with the hard lines. Mine are all in good shape not stripped

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I got lucky with the hard lines. Mine are all in good shape not stripped

mine weren't stripped, until I got to 'em, just fucking frozen. PB blaster for two days and a quality pair of vise grips finally freed 'em. Heat and WD40 did nothing.

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I just did rear cylinders on mine. The hex head on mine was 11mm. Simple repair.

7/16th is just a hair larger than 11mm. Most of the time 11mm will fit on a 7/16th hex, but will be very snug. At work the 11mm socket will stick to the bolt, than come off with the ratchet. 7/16ths is a better fit.
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7/16th is just a hair larger than 11mm. Most of the time 11mm will fit on a 7/16th hex, but will be very snug. At work the 11mm socket will stick to the bolt, than come off with the ratchet. 7/16ths is a better fit.

didn't have any trouble whatsoever. Used a flair wrench and they twisted right off. Didn't even have to use any penetrating oil

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didn't have any trouble whatsoever. Used a flair wrench and they twisted right off. Didn't even have to use any penetrating oil

 

Well lah tee fuckin dah! Aren't we Mr. High And Mighty? " I can get flare nuts off with nooooo problem."  :sneaky:  <_<  :angry:  :fu:

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