RickB Posted September 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2013 GRpufnstuf, thanks for the input. Here's the brake kit I installed: Front: Rotors: 2002 Honda passport, 2001-2004 Isuzu Rodeo, 2002-2003 Rodeo sport Calipers: 1988-1997 D21 (Hardbody) calipers for 4wd, 2.4L Pads: 1988-1997 D21 (Hardbody) pads for 4wd, 2.4L The rear are the stock drums. So you're saying I can change the brakes instead of the stock rims? At this point that might be easier and cheaper, the wheels are proving difficult. What parts do I need? Rick. Quote Link to comment
GRpufnstuf Posted September 17, 2013 Report Share Posted September 17, 2013 620 trucks got changed over to front disc in 1978-1979 (I think). The rotors are smaller and non vented. All the parts will swap over to your truck except the upper control arms. Those are built by "beebani" in these forums. I bought my set a couple weeks ago for $200 shipped. When you do this swap you'll also be widening the front track width approx 2-3" and swapping out the older kingpin spindles and parts for ball joints. The only reason to do it this way is to keep the 14" wheels as far as I can tell. I picked up my used spindles, hubs, rotors, calipers, and ball joints and a 13/16" master cylinder as a package for $100 or so on CL. I'll be replacing most of that stuff with new but I wanted cores and a baseline to work from. I pulled my lower arms and rods from a 1980 720 (I'm pretty sure they will work) Now I'm ordering rotors, calipers, wheel bearing and seals, new bushings and so on so that I can swap it all in with as few hangups as possible. There are lots of write ups in the forums about doing it and I'm sure I'm forgetting something or I've got something wrong here. Your discs are probably the better working setup overall. The other thing that occurs to me is to check out BlueHands inc. he uses spacers for stock wheels on his disc kits. I'm not sure, but maybe you could just space the wheels out a bit? Beebani's UCA (images borrowed from datsunminitruckin) Quote Link to comment
RickB Posted September 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2013 Thanks for the detailed response. I think the brake setup I have right now is good, so I'll keep trying with the rims. What is the lug spacing on the stock 14" rims, do you know? 5"? I hoping Wheel Vintiques will have something that will fit over mysetup. Quote Link to comment
GRpufnstuf Posted September 17, 2013 Report Share Posted September 17, 2013 I believe the bolt pattern is 6x139.7mm or 5.5in with a 100mm center hole. If I'm wrong I'll get told quick! I was reading the beginning of your thread and your truck has the wear lines from a camper shell/topper/canopy on The cab. I think you can buy the right size new but finding a vintage shell is do-able if you're patient. I'm considering these http://www.soft-top.com/ for my truck Quote Link to comment
GRpufnstuf Posted September 17, 2013 Report Share Posted September 17, 2013 duplicate Quote Link to comment
K_trip Posted September 17, 2013 Report Share Posted September 17, 2013 - removed - Quote Link to comment
dr.feltersnatch Posted September 18, 2013 Report Share Posted September 18, 2013 top pic says l16 bottom says l18 have you checked your title vin to the truck vin? or was that sticker added when they swapped the motor? Quote Link to comment
RickB Posted September 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2013 Good spot, I had not noticed that. Something is fishy with this engine. It has no serial number on it and appears almost brand new. The previous owener said the original engine had been rebuilt, but the guage reads 20000 miles. atzenmike pointed out earlier in this thread that is didn't look like an L16 engine, he thought it might be a JDM import. How can I tell if it's L16 or L18?! I am in the process of having the flywheel replaced and ordered an L16 part. Is this going to fit? There was a little disc heat glued to the head next to the #2 that had some words stamped on it, it fell off but I kept it. Is that important? Thanks, Rick. Quote Link to comment
RickB Posted September 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2013 Ok so I just called my mechanic who has the truck right now and had him double check what the engine is. It's an L18 block and he suspects a different head. So somewhere along the life of this truck it's been swapped for the L18 engine and possible a different head. There is no serial number stamped on the engine, so it must be a new block. How does one get such an engine? So now I'm faced with having ordered and sent off for balancing/lightening an L16 flywheel. Will this fit on an L18 engine? Rick. Quote Link to comment
91hrdbdy Posted September 18, 2013 Report Share Posted September 18, 2013 Nice truck Rick. what part of LA are you in there are a few of us in the la area on this forum. Quote Link to comment
jvb5577 Posted September 18, 2013 Report Share Posted September 18, 2013 What does your door jam placard say? It should have the VIN on it too. Could have been a VIN swap? It is easy to unscrew and screw a new placard in engine bay. As for the fly wheel im not sure but they do not have the same part number. Just checked on carpartsmanual. Quote Link to comment
RickB Posted September 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2013 Thanks mate. I'm in Echo Park, just off the 101. So the hits keep coming. I ordered the part my mechanic told me to get. A flywheel. Only now do I discover that a flywheel is for a manual shift transmission, not an automatic, which I have. That is called a flexplate! So I'm looking for a good condition flex plate for an L18 automatic if anyone has one. I posted in the classifieds about it too. I'll also be selling a re-conditioned, lightned and balanced flywheel soon too. Rick. Quote Link to comment
RickB Posted September 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 19, 2013 Just put an order in with nissanparts.cc for the drive plate and those 5 bolt spacers either side of it, just in case. I hope they have it all in stock as I haven't had any luck finding a drive plate/flex plate anywhere else yet. Quote Link to comment
RickB Posted October 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2013 So the flex plate finally arrived! Does anyone know if the thickness of the spacers that mount either side of the flex plate are different on the L16 or L18 engine/transmissions? I'm worried that whoever put a L18 engine in my truck might not have changed the L16 flex plate and spacers, hence the chewed up teeth from an ill-fitting starter. Either that of the starter was just crap and it chewed up a perfectly good flex plate. Rick. Quote Link to comment
BOZO Posted October 6, 2013 Report Share Posted October 6, 2013 How far out would you have to space your wheels to get the original 14" rims to work? You say your 14" wheels almost fit. Maybe a 1/2" or 3/4" wheel spacer could result in the clearance you need. It might require longer studs, but thats still cheaper than all the other mentioned remedies. Quote Link to comment
RickB Posted October 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2013 Finally picked the truck up from 4J's. New flex plate installed, new engine and transmission seals, new transmission fluid and filter, bushings in the shifter (although it's still loose at the selector lever?). Oh and he found the source of it cutting out. A shorting connector at the ignition coil. It seems to be running well, although I can hear a ticking that might be coming from a cold belt or something. Now I finally get back to putting the interior back together. Rick. Quote Link to comment
RickB Posted November 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 28, 2013 Hi guys, Some slow progress on other bits and pieces related to the truck. No progress on the wheels/brakes really, I'm waiting on Mike ot make his new 14" friendly kit. Sometime in the new year I'm told. In some good news, I was finally able to get the glove box door lock off. If you take the back plate off by prying the tabs up, you can then get to a recessed sprung latch that holds the front half of the knob/lock assembly. Super easy once I had figured it out. I can't tell you what a breakthrough this was! On another note, the mystery as to what my truck really is and where it came from continues. My fuse box lid is brittle and cracked. The PO tried to glue it back together, but that is failing and leaving bits of perished plastic everywhere. Of course, all the OEM covers I find on eBay have different label layouts! Why is mine different?! I read somewhere my cover might be a JDM cover, why would that be? Any idea where I can get one of those?! One more question, the PO hastily installed an oil pressure gauge but running the line from the block and screwing the gauge crudely into the lower dash. It terrible and I want it gone. How do I blank off the oil pressure line on the block? Thanks, Rick. Quote Link to comment
sebpv Posted April 16, 2015 Report Share Posted April 16, 2015 Hi, do you still need help for ur truck? Hows the progress anyway? For reference, I just bought a fuse block on ebay, I am pleased with the quality. As for the oil pressure sender, I bought a replacement one from Rockauto, then I reconnected a wire(listed in Haynes Manual). Just make sure there is no hacking in the wiring under the dash. Mine was hooked up with a three-pin sender, and some ordinary black wires hooked here and there under the dash... Im also curious about the fender emblems...I just discovered that my fenders are replacements so they dont have the mounting holes... Anyway good thread so far :) 1 Quote Link to comment
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