1973 Datsun 620 Project - Rookie

[RickB]

Hi all,

 

My name is Rick. I am new to Datsun's and new to Ratsun.net so a quick 'g'day' to you all and thanks for having me.

 

I recently moved to Los Angeles from Australia where I had to leave my 1975 Honda CB400F motorcycle behind. Quickly discovering that LA is a wretched place without a car (and also with a car I have since discovered) I sought out a set of wheels I could put my snow/surf boards in the back of or a motorcycle when I can afford one. I remembered my Dad drove an ex-government owned 620 work truck back home when I was a kid. I love these little pickups.

 

But it needed to be original-ish (ie, not hot-rodded), Datsun orange (I have since been told it's 'pumpkin') and preferrably automatic (gasp, I know, but LA traffic being what it is I couldn't be bothered with a manual).

 

I eventually found this little beauty up in Sacromento. After six months of talking with a very friendly if reluctant seller, he agreed to sell it. Turns out he was a little down on his luck and I was glad to give him top dollar. I left Sacromento at 10pm and drove 9 hours through the night non-stop back to LA, smiling the whole way!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

So as you can see, she's got a lot of patina, which I'm so stoked on. I don't want a garage queen, just an reliable original daily driver that is well maintained.

 

From what I can tell, the paint is indeed original. It's been knocked about a bit, with dents in most panels but nothign drastic. The only real bit of rust of concern is in the lower passenger side door, which I have to decide what to do about.

 

The engine is an rebuilt L16 (~20k miles on the clock since rebuild) with the wrong carb (no e-choke). Drums on all corners, new MC that has just failed. Before that, braking pulls to the right hard and there was an annoying 'grinding' noise coming from a dragging pad.

 

What I'd like the Ratsun communities help with is bringing her back to stock where appropriate. As I'm new to Datsun's, I'm still learning about the differances of years and what was factory, what wasn't.

 

Due to image limits per post, I'll do exterior/interior/engine in seperate posts.

 

Rick.

[RickB]

Exterior

 

 

I'd like to clean up the tailgate area. The PO obviosuly sprayed the step silver and from what I can tell the 'frames' around the taillights were originally chrome? I've seen repos on ebay from Thailand cheap, are these correct and worth getting?

 

 

She looks to have had a camper shell (what's the correct terminolgy for these) over the bed/tray. I'd love to get one of these for camping, are they still easy to obtain?

 

 

 

The 'west coast' mirrors. Hate these things, not only is the drivers side one broken, but combined with the deflated door and windows seals, they make the whole door shudder on the freeway. Am hoping the smaller 240z door mirrors are a direct swap, but have only found left side NOS on ebay for $100.

 

 

 

 

 

A few impacts on front. Nothing I'm too worried about straightening for now. I would like to tidy up the grill area, one of the trim pieces around the passenger side fog light is missing, the grill appears to be spray painted as is the emblem. How were these originally?

 

 

 

Probably should replace the perished rubbers on the bush-bar.

 

 

 

The only bit of concerning rust. I don't want to repaint the truck or entire door, but I would like to take care of this. Given the 'character' the rest of the truck has, I think a body shop could do a decent touch-up job. Can anyone recommend one in the Los Angeles area?

[RickB]

Interior

 

 

Dash is cracked in more than one place but has a nice aftermarket cover, not too worried about it.

 

 

An aftermarket oil pressure guage and manual choke that doesn't do a whole lot. Need to ditch that asap and replace with a Weber 32/36 DGEV with e-choke.

 

 

 

Ignition clam-shell is busted (screw thread is broken). Need to find a replacement. Back of horn/steering wheel is cracked along the edge, not an immedient concern but it is brittle.

 

 

Horn bar is missing, NOS on eBay but would like a used unit I think, a NOS part to would stand out like the proverbial dogs balls I think.

 

 

 

T shifter split, would like to replace. Same with the center console, but finding an automatic console looks to be difficult, plenty of manual ones around.

 

 

Need to secure the parcel shelf, it's missing some washers or correct hardware and falls off it's mounts easily. Glove box hinge is broked too.

 

 

 

 

No radio, which I like (love the delete plate) but may want to put something in the glove box in the future. Is the cigerrete lighter knob correct? It doesn't fit well and rattles out. I'm missing the know for the OFF/HEAT lever too, would love to get one of those.

 

Another thing that annoys me is the missing button/plug in the center of the temp/fuel gauge. Would love to get a hold of one of those.

 

 

 

I really need to replace the seat belts. Right now they're a mixture of three-piece airline style units. Terribly ergonomics and basically non-functional. I'd like to put in some peroid retractable units, any ideas on this? I'd do used ones if safe.

 

I should get the seat re-upholstered as the foam is pretty dead. No idea what fabrics where stokc in these, but I'd be surprised if this was original given no tears or holes.

 

I would love to get correct floor mats too. Are there interior kits availible? I like my original vinyl mats, but they're not fastened down correctly and I'd love to get this all nice and correct.

[RickB]

Engine

 

 

 

 

As I said earlier, a rebuilt L16 with ~20k miles on it. The carb is incorrect I've been told, no e-choke. The ignition is the original points setup, which I'd like to replace with an electronic version from the L20 engine. So my mechanic has told me anyway.

 

Not sure that airfilter ending without a hose running off it is correct, nor the lower hose coming off it not attaching anywhere. I noticed there is a retaining screw missing too. Anyone have photos of the correct 1973 setup for this? The Clymer manual I bought doesn't show it well.

 

 

 

 

Some oil leakage from the spark plugs, this can't be good, right?! The truck doesn't blow any smoke at all, so is this a concern?

 

 

New master cylinder, but as you can see the rear resoviour is empty (I felt the peddle go flat and now the brakes hardly work at all). I had 4 J's Datsun Specialists re-do the brakes for me and apparently they were completely screwed, so I'm going to have them take another look at them.

 

 

 

 

 

Need to replace these rubbers as the hood vibrates a bit.

 

Ok so this turned into a novel, but it's just a list of where I'm starting at. Any and all comments and help is much appreciated.

 

Thanks for having me,

 

Rick.

[Kirden]

Wow, very nice find. I'm not one for automatics, but I understand the traffic issue. Learned to hate my manual in Atlanta during rush hour...

 

My 620 was originally orange. I really wish the PO hadn't decided painting it with house paint was a good idea because orange looks great on these trucks. Good luck on finding all the parts you need, and welcome to Ratsun.

[RickB]

Thansk Kirden, appreciate the kind words.

 

I've already PM'ed a few people on these forums for parts. I have a horn bar I don't need but for some reason I can't seem to post anything in the classified section. Perhaps there's 'n00bie' rule.

[Kirden]

Yea, you must have 25 posts to post in the classifieds. I'm sure if you start reading through some of the builds here that 25 posts will go by extremely fast. Be sure to check out redeyes red KA swapped 620. That was the build that got me to join ratsun.

[jvb5577]

For the hose on the bottom of the air cleaner it is suppost to attach to a heat shield on your exhaust manifold.  Not sure if the L16 came with one.  Also for the end I've seen a hose run into the front of the core support to get the "cooler" air but I dont think you need it.

 

I bought some of the hood rubbers on ebay.  Cheap but takes a while for them to get to you.  Overseas.

 

I would recommend getting discs up front.  There is a bracket you can buy on here from a member.  Its pinned in the brakes section.

 

Also WELCOME  :thumbup:   You have a really clean truck.  Have fun and keep us updated.

[darrel]

The rear light surrounds were painted stock, not chrome.

 

nice truck.

[RickB]

Thanks for the pointers guys, mucho appreciated!

 

With the disc brake converison, is there a kit that I can take to my mechanic and have him do it? I don't have the space, tools or time right now and I hate bleeding brake lines.

 

The front kits I see on eBay are 'performance' and $800. That doesn't seem right given what most parts cost for these trucks.

 

Thoughts?

 

Rick.

[rick9two]

I love my automatic, with traffic everywhere in la. Beautiful truck, hope to see it around la sometime!!

If your considering selling your mirrors, let me know

[RickB]

Well it's been a while between updates but I just haven't had the chance to take photos to update you on my progress.

I've installed a new Weber carb (pricey but worth doing), a reconditioned electronic distributor from later model Datsuns, numerous interiors bits and pieces (heater knobs, door handles, glove box hinge, horn bar, ignition clam shell) and have new door rubber on the way. The truck is in the shop with the below issue so I'll update here with photos when I get her back.

 

However, my issue right now is I've just bought a front disc brake upgrade kit from Al at www.datsunpartsllc.com containing the following parts:

 

Rotors: 2002 Honda passport, 2001-2004 Isuzu Rodeo, 2002-2003 Rodeo sport
Calipers:  1988-1997 D21 (Hardbody) calipers for 4wd, 2.4L
Pads:  1988-1997 D21 (Hardbody) pads for 4wd, 2.4L

 

Now of course my mechanic mounts it all up and then discovers the stock 14" steel rims don't fit over the new hardware.

 

So I'm frantically searching for 15" or larger rims. I love my stock steel rims, hub caps and white wall tires and frankly wound't have done the brake upgrade if I knew I had to lose the rims. Or at least hunted for another braking solution that didn't require 4 new rims.

 

So my question to all of you, do you know of a stock looking rim in 15" 6-bolt that will fit over my disc brakes?

 

Ideally I'll find a way of mounting the hub caps and then find an appropirate white wall.

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated so thanks in advance,

Rick.

[RickB]

Forum member Radim put me onto a shop here in Los Angeles called Bolton's Classic Wheels. I think having them enlargen my stock rims is going to be the only way I'll be happy, so I'm going to do that I think.

 

Will report back how I go.

Rick.

[PDX Matt]

You're going to widen your factory wheels? I've been curious about how many people have done that. 

[datzenmike]

The rear tail light surrounds were a dull silver.

That does not look like an L16 motor at least not from that year. Look on the driver's door post for the month and year of manufacture. Yes a '73 should have an L16 but after Sept '73 they were a '74 year model and would have had an L18 motor. So now look on the upper edge of the block just below the head and directly behind the oil dip stick handle. Should say L16 or L18 stamped there.

 

 

For one thing it has what appears to be an EGR valve, (above picture) not used until '74. Also it appears to have an A87 head... look on the lower edge of the head just above the block between the #1 and #2 spark plugs. L16s usually have a 210 head. You can almost see the head casting number here under the #1 wire...

 

It also has a later 4 bolt casting around the oil filter boss. (see above picture)

 

 

It's incredibly clean even for rebuilt. So I would say it's a JDM import motor. That may explain the oil filter boss (and it may still turn out to be an L18 with EGR) Nissan made the L16 for many years after we stopped getting them here. Maybe the L16s over there had EGR later? or for use in other countries?

 

 

 

The exact shift knob was also used on the zcar, 510, 610, first gen 200sx and B210 although Mine in my 710 is similar and was cracked I replaced it with one from a 720? Either way they are all similar and should fit.

 

 

Forgot to mention the driver's fender emblem is wrong for a '73 can't see thew pass side.

 

Driver's side................... DATSUN

 

Should look like this........ DATSUN1600

[WallRocket]

Hey, on the disk conversion.

 

Do you use the rodeo for the rear?

 

Looking forward to some pics! :-)

[RickB]

King Rat,

Thanks for the incredibly detailed feedback, very handy to know. The trucks in the shop right now getting the dsic brakes fitted, when I get it back I'll check into those details and report back.

 

I know the previous owner said that even though it was labeled a 1974 he thought it was a later 1973 build. So it doesn't shock me there's some odd things. I thought the engine was just rebuilt, but the clock read 18k miles when I got it, so it wouldn't surprise me if it's a new unit. Would love to figure out what I've truly got.

The fender emblem thing is interesting. The Datsun 1600 emblem, would they have a different hold/post mounting or something? How can I tell if the emblems I have are somehow original to my truck?

I'll report back about the rims and brakes when I can.

Rick.

[RickB]

Ok, got the truck back from 4J's, Tony is a great guy and very knowledgable about these early Datsun's. A practical, realistic mechanic wiht very fair prices.

 

So I've got the disc brakes on, they pull a bit to the left now, so I would like to fix that. Tony tells me the proportioning valve is fine, but he said something about the left side brake system being longer than the right side. Sounds to me like it's one of those things I'll have to fiddle with myself to get it just right.

 

I'm going to talk to Bolton's tomorrow about the rim enlarging, in the mean time I'm trying to replace my igntion/steering clam shell.

 

I have the older style (1973/4) 620 steering cover (aka clam shell) that has the ignition barrel mounted to the shell.

 

How do I remove the barrel from the shell? Do I need a special tool?

 

I posted this question in it's own thread 'cause I couldn't find an answer for it anywhere. I'll report back here with the results just to keep it all in the one place.

 

 

[RickB]

Got it! Thanks to forum member darrel for the pointer.

 

I put two small screwdrivers in those holes in the face plate ring thing and gripped then in my pliers and unscrewed it. I just needed to use a little bit more force than I thought to unstick it.

[datsunwizard]

"Another thing that annoys me is the missing button/plug in the center of the temp/fuel gauge" I have one of those if you need it.

[RickB]

Datsun wizard: Thanks mate, I've PM'ed you about it.

 

Ok, so a lot has been happening with the truck.

 

I'll go into the details Mike talked about first. There is no serial number stamped into the passenger side of the block where you showed there should be one. What does this mean?! I bought this truck know that the engine had been rebuilt, but obviously it was a lot more than that.

 

 

 

As you can see in the photo, the badge just says Datsun. It appears to have been there for a long time, with no other holes or marks behind it. I have every reason to suspect it is original, unless of course someone can point to it being from another Datsun car. Obviously this truck has been 'restored' on some level.

 

Now the other issues. I replaced all the knobs and misc interior parts I sourced from members here. Finally got the ignition clam shell sorted after a lot of failed expoy attempts. Finding a used unit was the only way to go.

 

I am in the process of replacing the door and window rubbers to stop all the rattling. The door rubber seals I got from Datsun SoCal, the channel felt and inner/outer squeegee's I got from New Datsun Parts because I wanted OEM for those bits to ensure they fitted correctly. Pricey to be sure, but the poor man pays twice.

 

 

I also replaced the hood rubbers with the thick ones from eBay. Noticeable improvment in the vibration of the hood.

 

 

The stock wheels not fitting over the 'new' disc brakes is ongoing. I took the rims too Boltons and after a week and a half of sitting on it, I gave up waiting and called. They told me they can't put the centers in a 15x6 wheel and recommended they make me up some 15x6 Rallye's to fit over my disc brakes. I thought Rallye made a 15x6 rim so I'm not sure what Bolton's are making but they're the professionals so I'm trusting them.

 

I've searched high-and-low for stock steel alternatives and Rallye's seem like the best option. Once they're powder coated the beige to match the stock's I doubt they'll look all that different. At least that's what I'm telling myself!

 

 

I bought a vintage ice-box from eBay for some 'frothies' after a surf. So far I'm too scared of it getting stolen I've barely used it!

 

 

 

Ok so the glove box door. Very difficult to do without damaging it. No idea why Datsun made it so hard to get into the glove box yet made the locks and doors so easy to break into.

 

I had to Dremel the plastic off to get to the two screws holding the metal hinge on.

 

 

These little threaded nails are a total c-word to get out. There's 8 of then and they're dug in deeper than an Alambama tick. If you had some very fine and strong needle nose pliers you might be able to remove them all, but chances are you'd break the posts off the back of the door. I cut around them ever so carefully until I could pop them out.

 

 

I then had to cut the backing off around the lock. No idea how I'm getting the replacment backing back over this. I can't seem to figure out how to get the lock off. The knob does not want to pop off.

 

 

 

 

Mirrors. I found a seller on eBay selling NOS Z-car mirrors for $80 a pop. Much cheaper than the $130 odd other eBay sellers are asking.

 

I bought two figuring I'd fit them in the holes of the big 'west coast' mirrors I'd taken off. Well of course I had to drill more holes. They fit fine and look great, except the mounting posistion is way too far forward on the door. I'm thinking I'm going to bite the bullet an dhave a body shop patch the holes, patch-paint the top half of the door and mount the mirrors correctly.

 

So apart from all this I've had to have the truck towed to the shop twice because the starter motor (or something else, yet to be determinded) has died on me. Tony from 4J's Datsun is helping me track down the issue. We're getting there!

 

So on the list for now is fix the mirrors, the starter/engine issue, sort the wheels out, install new door/window rubber, fix dodgy door locks then get the seat re-upholstered/re-stuffed for extra comfort on the longer drives.

 

Rick.

[RickB]

So the wheel drama continues.

 

Bolton's where disapointing. Quality work to be sure, but very poor communication. The job was to take the centers from my stock steelies and put them in a 15x6 rim. I paid upfront and was told it'd take a weeek.

 

After a couple weeks of not hearing from them, I called. The guy, who to be fair is a nice guy, told me it wasn't possible and that they'd make me some Ralley's that look the same. As I said in my earlier post, they're the pros so I trusted them.

 

I ended up with 4 custom 16x7 wheels that look nothing like the originals:

 

 

 

Plus they distroyed one of my stock rims trying to get the center out (they used a good one, not even the scuffed up spare!).Bolton's said they can't make the hubcaps work because they can never get them centered correctly.

 

The whole process had probably taken a month or more and two two hour commutes to get there. I didn't kick up a fuss, I paid and left. I've learnt this lesson time and again with motorcycle restoration, the poor man pays twice and sometimes you just gotta' stop trying so hard and let it come to you.

 

I've just posted the customs in the classified section, if anyone wants them make me an offer.

 

I'm going to try Wheel Vintiques now, should have gone that route to begin with.

 

Since I've been out of town, the truck has been with 4J's getting a reconidtioned/lightened flywheel and starter put in as I've had some issues with it. This has taken weeks 'cause 4J's have been busy, so I haven't solved the mirror issue yet.

 

Rick.

[K_trip]

- removed -

[RickB]

K_trip,

 

This is fantastic, thanks mate. Love the patina of your truck!

 

I'm not exactly sure what is going to fit over my caliper setup (D21 hardbody). My stock rims are only slightly too small. I want to keep the stock look as much as possible, so I'm hoping the 15" or 16" would fit, but it really depends on how the centers are fitted in the Wheel Vintique rims.

 

By the look of yours the 16" barely fit, so that might be as small as I can go. As for width, I prefer the slimmer profile for the originalty, I wonder what 16x6 would look like.

 

I probably wouldn't do all that custom stuff you did with the backspace, unless of course I need to. I haven't been able to speak with Wheel Vintiques yet.

 

Hmm, ya' change one thing you gotta' change everything!

 

Thanks again mate,

 

Rick.

[GRpufnstuf]

So, your brakes are changed and you probably don't want to go back but you can fit the stock 14" wheels over early front discs and drums at the rear. I'm gathering parts to do the smaller brake swap.

Also it doesn't seem that hard to center the hubcap 'balls'. They just don't want to make the jig and take the time I'd say.

 

I like your custom wheels. I'll PM and see if you still have them.

 

My '73 has the Datsun1600 emblems. I'm replacing the driver fender with a '75 and the holes are bigger and in different spots than the original. I eye-balled it and I think I can 3M tape the original in emblem over the later holes and it will cover and be in the correct position.

 

I'll try to post up pics but it'll be toward the end of the month.

 

Great looking truck! I'll ha e mine back in LA at the end of the month. Maybe they'll meet at one of te local meets.