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Everything posted by BOZO

  1. If you try to use the thinner bearing you will not be able to tighten your driveshaft all the way down. That's how I found out I had the wrong bearing. When I took the bolts back out there was an imprint of the bearing spindle in the end of the driveshaft. I had to machine a spacer.
  2. BOZO

    New guy here!

    Concerning the carrier bearing. I used to go through one about every 2 years in my 69 Chevy truck until one day I filled one of my new carrier bearings with silicon rubber and let it set up for about 3 days until it hardened. That carrier bearing has now been in the truck for 12 years. I tried this trick with my Datsun about a week ago and it runs smooth with no vibration. If you are at your wits end trying to make these bearing last, try this trick. Be sure to clean the mold release compound out the inside of the rubber cup first so the silicone will adhere. The job I done on the Datsun, I ju
  3. I been having carrier bearing replacement issues on my 74 620. I ordered what I thought was the proper replacement for the truck and the bearing width is too narrow resulting in the nut not tightening down on everything properly and the threaded end of the shaft protruding too far out to tighten down the mating driveshaft yoke. I took the carrier bearing out of a 77 I have and the width is (approx.).945 (which would solve my problems). My new bearing is only (approx.) .658. Some sources show a different bearing for 73/74 compared to a 77. Other sources say all are the same from 72 to 79. Has a
  4. Just so everyone will know. I done this conversion on my truck and I love it but, the led light that I put in the charging/alternator position would not allow my alternator to charge. I have the Saturn alternator in my truck and it appears the led light bulb does not have enough resistance ( at least in my truck ) to excite the alternator. After installing it my truck would not charge. It still would not charge after turning it around, but after putting my original bulb back in it worked just fine. Just passing along this info just in case somebody else runs into this problem.
  5. Could be an unvented gas tank. Maybe try feeding your gas from a separate container. Or even just temporarily removing the filler cap just to test.
  6. That module MAY be an overspeed indicator. There was one of those on a speedo I bought out of Canada. Lights up a light when you go too fast. Unused in my dash now because I don't have the corresponding light.
  7. The Z-Store has a set of studs and nuts for $31. I can't remember where I got my stud set, but they even came with Allen wrench holes in the end for screwing them in. Used the studs for all my intake/exhaust clamping and had some left over. They worked excellent. You can put a bit more torque on them when you aren't afraid of stripping out the aluminum threads.
  8. BOZO

    Slipping clutch

    It wasn't too hard to get used to but when my exhaust installer went to put it on the rack, he crawled out of the truck and said "YOU drive it up on the rack". I was tired of the stock clutchs which never seemed to live up to my expectations so I bought this one. It has done all I expected and more.
  9. BOZO

    Slipping clutch

    Thought I would post this about my original problem which I finally solved. I dealt with the slipping problem by bleeding off the pressure occasionally because I knew I was going to put all new running gear in my truck pretty soon. Well, this spring I put a totally rebuilt L20b and another 5 speed in my truck. Some of the things I replaced was another clutch master cylinder and a hydraulic rubber flex line to the new clutch slave cylinder. Since then there has been no problem with the clutch. So I checked out my old flex line and it would barely pass fluid through it! It had broken down on the
  10. Nevermind about my question about the pipe, Klotz just sent me a schematic of the flange which answered my question.
  11. Thinking about it, it may be better like you said to run 2 pipes down under the truck and then join them under the cab with a merge collector. That would solve the problem of whether or not the Columbia River collectors would fit. Does a 1.5" pipe fit inside Klotz's flange?
  12. Well, I have read on here that people have used Mr. Klotz's down pipe flanges and the Columbia River merge collectors together. I was just trying to come up with something to make my exhaust installers work go quicker as he charges by the hour. I think buying one premade (approx.$45) would be cheaper than having him make one. I intend to have a new 2" system to the back. I would be doing it myself but the recent installation of a defibrillator in my chest ended my welding abilities. Firing up a welder could end up in getting kicked in the chest like a mule. Columbia River has a merge collector
  13. I have bought one of blue hands 4 cylinder L series down pipe flanges and I intend to purchase one of Columbia River Mandrel Bending Companies 2-1 merge collectors but don't know which one to order. I am running an L18 exhaust manifold on an L20b in a 1974 620. I intend to run a 2" exhaust system. CRMB website offers many different options and I want to get the right one the first time. I know that I want a 2" outlet but I am not sure of the inlet sizes (1.5"?) And is the spacing correct? Does anybody know either the proper part number or the right sizes to accomplish my goal?
  14. BOZO


    I wish I had measured across the bolt holes on my 74 kingpin frame and compared it to the 78 ballpoint frame to see if there is a difference while I had the motor out of the 74. But hindsight is 20/20. If there is a difference it might help to solve future problems juggling motor mounts. I also wish I had checked to see if there was a width difference between the L18 and L20b, but I was just busy trying to get my truck back on the road.
  15. BOZO


    The 74 motor brackets would not fit, but using the 1978 L20b motor brackets and the 1974 isolators it dropped right in. Also makes my motor sit low.
  16. BOZO


    Well, dropped my L20b into my 1974 620 this last weekend. My thinking was to use the 1974 L18 motor mounts and rubber isolators.I know L20b's are taller but I figured the block width dimensions were the same. Upon setting the the motor brackets side by side, the L20b brackets look the same but are a lower profile. After much cussing and prying, I ended up using the L20b motor brackets with the L18 isolators. This is just speculation but I think the L20b block may be a bit wider in cross section than the L18. I have some good comparison photos of the motor mount brackets that I would show but m
  17. BOZO


    Thank you both for your replies. I will clean up and paint both sets of brackets and have them both ready when it comes time to stab the motor in. Gonna try it first with the L18 mount and bracket.
  18. BOZO


    I am putting an L20b from a 1978 620 into a 1974 620. I noticed the rubber part of the mounts are different. The 1974 being just a square rubber biscuit and the 1978 being an interlocking rubber mount which is a bit taller than the other. The steel motor brackets SEEM to be the same. My question is which motor mount should I use?
  19. Just a followup after retiming my cam over the weekend. I transferred (machined) the v notches onto my new cam sprocket in the right place and upon assembly the marks lined up perfectly with the sprocket set to #1 position which is not normal for an L20b. My slack side chain guide went on with PLENTY of adjustment left. Wondering how this could be after removing .022 from the distance between the top and bottom, I called my engine rebuilder and he said even after taking that amount off, my deck height was still at 8.960, which is still .005 taller than factory specs. I never paid attention to
  20. Concerning cam tower shims, at the moment, my chain guide has plenty of adjustment and the tensioner is where it should be. Also my wipe patterns on my rocker arms are correct. My head was not warped. I only had material removed from the head to give me a good sealing surface. If the cam does not time out correctly with the standard sprocket, my next step will be to obtain an aftermarket sprocket with more adjustment.
  21. After digging up my old sprocket, it is obvious where the notches go. They are lined up with the dowel pin holes.
  22. Distributorguy...Yeah, I will be dialing it in for torque because this truck will be used as it should be. As a truck. IMO
  23. Daniel C thank you for the info. With this info I can check that it is right after I dial it in using the old sprocket.
  24. I am a machinist by trade, I may just throw it up on a rotating head and machine all 3 V grooves in their proper location.
  25. Also, my block has been decked .018 and my head .004 so I just can't guess at what is right. Using my old sprocket to check alignment then replacing it with my new one will solve the issue I believe. Y'all keep posting specifications on things like chain lengths and such. Every time I come across things like that, I cut and paste to my own database and it is there when I need it. Thanks to all and especially Draker for mentioning my old sprocket. Now if I can just find it.
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