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BOZO

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About BOZO

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 09/01/1958

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Dover, AR
  • Cars
    1974 Datsun 620
  • Interests
    music, motorcycles, firearms
  • Occupation
    Machinist
  1. BOZO

    78 620, L20B foreign matter in combustion chamber.

    The Z-Store has a set of studs and nuts for $31. I can't remember where I got my stud set, but they even came with Allen wrench holes in the end for screwing them in. Used the studs for all my intake/exhaust clamping and had some left over. They worked excellent. You can put a bit more torque on them when you aren't afraid of stripping out the aluminum threads.
  2. BOZO

    Slipping clutch

    It wasn't too hard to get used to but when my exhaust installer went to put it on the rack, he crawled out of the truck and said "YOU drive it up on the rack". I was tired of the stock clutchs which never seemed to live up to my expectations so I bought this one. It has done all I expected and more.
  3. BOZO

    Slipping clutch

    Thought I would post this about my original problem which I finally solved. I dealt with the slipping problem by bleeding off the pressure occasionally because I knew I was going to put all new running gear in my truck pretty soon. Well, this spring I put a totally rebuilt L20b and another 5 speed in my truck. Some of the things I replaced was another clutch master cylinder and a hydraulic rubber flex line to the new clutch slave cylinder. Since then there has been no problem with the clutch. So I checked out my old flex line and it would barely pass fluid through it! It had broken down on the inside and was quite restrictive. I think the problem was in the master cylinder and the flex line. My new clutch is a Exedy Stage 1 Sport clutch and be forewarned it is stout. I am not complaining, but it takes much more effort to push in. But it does NOT slip. I posted this because it seems some people never come back to post their solutions and it leaves other people wondering how the problem got solved.
  4. BOZO

    WHICH MERGE COLLECTOR?

    Nevermind about my question about the pipe, Klotz just sent me a schematic of the flange which answered my question.
  5. BOZO

    WHICH MERGE COLLECTOR?

    Thinking about it, it may be better like you said to run 2 pipes down under the truck and then join them under the cab with a merge collector. That would solve the problem of whether or not the Columbia River collectors would fit. Does a 1.5" pipe fit inside Klotz's flange?
  6. BOZO

    WHICH MERGE COLLECTOR?

    Well, I have read on here that people have used Mr. Klotz's down pipe flanges and the Columbia River merge collectors together. I was just trying to come up with something to make my exhaust installers work go quicker as he charges by the hour. I think buying one premade (approx.$45) would be cheaper than having him make one. I intend to have a new 2" system to the back. I would be doing it myself but the recent installation of a defibrillator in my chest ended my welding abilities. Firing up a welder could end up in getting kicked in the chest like a mule. Columbia River has a merge collector that is twin 1.5" inlets and a 1.75" outlet. I think that is the one I need, I was just concerned about the spacing of the twin inlets.
  7. BOZO

    WHICH MERGE COLLECTOR?

    I have bought one of blue hands 4 cylinder L series down pipe flanges and I intend to purchase one of Columbia River Mandrel Bending Companies 2-1 merge collectors but don't know which one to order. I am running an L18 exhaust manifold on an L20b in a 1974 620. I intend to run a 2" exhaust system. CRMB website offers many different options and I want to get the right one the first time. I know that I want a 2" outlet but I am not sure of the inlet sizes (1.5"?) And is the spacing correct? Does anybody know either the proper part number or the right sizes to accomplish my goal?
  8. BOZO

    MOTOR MOUNTS

    I wish I had measured across the bolt holes on my 74 kingpin frame and compared it to the 78 ballpoint frame to see if there is a difference while I had the motor out of the 74. But hindsight is 20/20. If there is a difference it might help to solve future problems juggling motor mounts. I also wish I had checked to see if there was a width difference between the L18 and L20b, but I was just busy trying to get my truck back on the road.
  9. BOZO

    MOTOR MOUNTS

    The 74 motor brackets would not fit, but using the 1978 L20b motor brackets and the 1974 isolators it dropped right in. Also makes my motor sit low.
  10. BOZO

    MOTOR MOUNTS

    Well, dropped my L20b into my 1974 620 this last weekend. My thinking was to use the 1974 L18 motor mounts and rubber isolators.I know L20b's are taller but I figured the block width dimensions were the same. Upon setting the the motor brackets side by side, the L20b brackets look the same but are a lower profile. After much cussing and prying, I ended up using the L20b motor brackets with the L18 isolators. This is just speculation but I think the L20b block may be a bit wider in cross section than the L18. I have some good comparison photos of the motor mount brackets that I would show but my Android pad does not seem to offer up attachments.
  11. BOZO

    MOTOR MOUNTS

    Thank you both for your replies. I will clean up and paint both sets of brackets and have them both ready when it comes time to stab the motor in. Gonna try it first with the L18 mount and bracket.
  12. BOZO

    MOTOR MOUNTS

    I am putting an L20b from a 1978 620 into a 1974 620. I noticed the rubber part of the mounts are different. The 1974 being just a square rubber biscuit and the 1978 being an interlocking rubber mount which is a bit taller than the other. The steel motor brackets SEEM to be the same. My question is which motor mount should I use?
  13. Just a followup after retiming my cam over the weekend. I transferred (machined) the v notches onto my new cam sprocket in the right place and upon assembly the marks lined up perfectly with the sprocket set to #1 position which is not normal for an L20b. My slack side chain guide went on with PLENTY of adjustment left. Wondering how this could be after removing .022 from the distance between the top and bottom, I called my engine rebuilder and he said even after taking that amount off, my deck height was still at 8.960, which is still .005 taller than factory specs. I never paid attention to what number dowel pin hole it was at upon teardown but the bolt head imprints on the old slack side adjuster were all the way to the right side of their slots . It appears originally somebody barely got the adjuster in place. The reason I had him deck the block was because my new pistons were so far down in the bore (they are now at -.004). It is not often that things like this happen in my favor.
  14. Concerning cam tower shims, at the moment, my chain guide has plenty of adjustment and the tensioner is where it should be. Also my wipe patterns on my rocker arms are correct. My head was not warped. I only had material removed from the head to give me a good sealing surface. If the cam does not time out correctly with the standard sprocket, my next step will be to obtain an aftermarket sprocket with more adjustment.
  15. After digging up my old sprocket, it is obvious where the notches go. They are lined up with the dowel pin holes.
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