Random IR alternator swap issues

[Siqx20]

So every day since my alternator swap I have bad to jump my battery in the morning. I disconnected the choke relay heater since the choke isn't doing anything at the moment anyways. I thought it was my battery so I swapped in a new one that was charged. Let it sit at work for my entire shift (10 hours) and when I went to start it it was dead. So this was a serious draw.

 

Well I checked amperage inline with the battery circuit and it was like 6amps! So I started tinkering with things. When I unhooked the plug from the back of my alternator the amps would drop to zero (hmmmm that's weird) checked the voltage out of the back of the plug and in the key off position I had full voltage (12.xx V) so obviously I had a problem. My field wire (think that's what the "F" stands for on the plug) was back feeding voltage when the key was off. So I wired a diode inline with the circuit. Problem solved. I no longer had a draw and everything worked like it was supposed to. I didn't read about anyone else having to do this when they went to a IR swap. So I thought this was kinda weird. Either way. She is happy and charging and holding said charge now.

 

I'm just curious if this was normal?

[Tristin]

Did you make sure it was wired up right? Thats what ended up happening with Q-tips swap... which I think I remember sounds a lot like your problem. Check out his thread as his problem was solved and its running great. 

[Siqx20]

I'm pretty sure it's wired up right lol. Ain't a whole lot to wire. I'm positive I jumped the correct wires when I eliminated the external regulator. What color wire should be my field wire?

[Tristin]

I dont know and your exact statement was what Tyler said... like 2wks later the wires ended up being wrong. Im not saying thats the issues, but worth the check to be 100% positive. Last page of his thread had the correct answer. I think it was white wire to yellow and yellow to white. Then eliminate the choke heater wire. I think. 

 

Check to make sure. I remember DMike threw out a a bunch of good info. 

[q-tip]

All I did was get fed up with shit not working right and swapped the two wires at the "T" plug and everything worked fine. Pissed me off I didn't do it sooner. Which alternator swap did you do?

[thisismatt]

Was your field wire hooked up through your charge light, which is connected through your ignition?  If not, and you hooked it up straight to hot, then this is likely your problem. 

[LenRobertson]

When you say you "disconnected the choke relay heater", did you just unplug the wire to the choke heater body on the carb, or did you pull the plug-in connector out of the actual choke relay? When I did the IR conversion on my 510, the relay on the inner fender had to be disconnected, or there was a battery draw. I'm remembering doing jumper wires on the plug that goes to the external voltage regulator, and then I had to unplug the connector to the choke relay. There is still a draw through the choke relay, even if the wire to the choke heater is unplugged. I'm powering my electric choke with a jumper wire from the + side of the coil to the choke heater.

 

Len

 

[Siqx20]

i have the jumped wires correct i know that. I double checked. as far as the choke relay after i eliminated the external regualtor i wired the new relay heater off coil + so that the relay would only have power when the ignition is keyed on. when i had a draw i just unhooked it completly incase that may have been the issue.

 

could someone take a look at their T plug and tell me the wire color and orientation??? then i can refrance it to where i am supposed to have mine.

 

My charge light no longer works. hasent since the swap. I have no problem just checking it the other way but i just spent a bunch of time wiring in that diode all pretty lick so it doenst looked hacked. so i would rather not tear it all apart for a hunch. thank you in advance!!

[q-tip]

If the charge light doesn't work the wires are probly backwards at the "T" plug. That was another one of my problems. :D

[izzo]

Yeah make sure the T plug wires are right.

 

Also, the 510 IR alt swap guide should work. The wire colors are the same, did this on the B210 also.  Same wire colors...

 

Yellow to white

WB to white with red stripe

 

 

 

Just use two short wires, and 4 spade connectors. If you have that uber retarded round plug, just yank the wires off the back of the voltage regulator. that way you don't have to cut wires at the plug. This way you can always go back.

[banzai510(hainz)]

I reaaly never seen the need for the dioade if one wires it per the standard drawing.

a guy from Canada did his 620 and didnt need a dioade

 

ck the engine wire harness color again closely. then insert the jumpers.