510SSS Posted May 27, 2013 Report Share Posted May 27, 2013 Hey everyone I wanted to install a new cam in my L21, I have done alot of reading and research and it appears that the DAMB cam is one of the superior camshafts available. I was wondering where is the best place to source one, and what is required to use it. What brand/type/size of Lash Pads, Retainers, Valve Springs, and Keepers are required? Do you guys recommend any other cams? At what RPM will a cam like this make power? Will it be hard to keep from stalling with an 8lb aluminum flywheel? Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted May 27, 2013 Report Share Posted May 27, 2013 Well...if you know what kind of 'cam' you want, you could ship your old cam to someone that re-grinds them. Lash pads, springs and retainers are relative to lift of cam...so who knows at this point. You want to DD this vehicle/engine??? If so.....a higher duration cam....lets say anything above 270 could be a bitch in stop and go traffic....depends on gears etc. Higher duration...higher power band. Mine is .491/260.....4.38 diff Throttle it at any RPM...good till 6500 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 27, 2013 Report Share Posted May 27, 2013 At what RPM will a cam like this make power?. That will depend on what carb or carbs you use as well. If you researched this cam you probably found some specs on it and it's useable hp range. Every cam change involving added duration or overlap moves the power producing range higher in the RPMs and away from the speeds where you drive your car the most. You can end up with a car that has a huge flat spot when accelerating and then sudden power after 5,000 RPMs. OK for racing but not much fun driving a car like that on the street unless at full throttle all the time in lower gears. It's true what they say... " never over carb or over cam your motor" . Will it be hard to keep from stalling with an 8lb aluminum flywheel?' Yes. 15 lbs is plenty. An 8 pound flywheel is racing territory where there are no stops and starts. In real life there are stop signs, traffic lights and stop and go traffic. Why make this car even harder to enjoy for a few hp gain? Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted May 27, 2013 Report Share Posted May 27, 2013 Why not just call or email kelvin? Quote Link to comment
510SSS Posted May 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2013 I have dual SU carbs from Z therapy. So it sounds like a 290 duration may be too much for the street. I already have an OS giken 8 lb flywheel so I am going to use it with this build. I like the sound of your cam sealick, what brand is it? Yes I do plan to daily drive this vehicle, and I want instantaneous throttle response, I dont want to have any flat spots what is the best duration for an L21 with z20e rods and pistons? I dont want to move the power band up too much even tho this engine should be able to make power at higher revs. Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted May 28, 2013 Report Share Posted May 28, 2013 I shipped my cam to Shadbolt Cams in Vancouver...B.C. Colt Cams is another one north of the border....that said there should be some options south of the border. The benefit with that is that they can grind any profile relative to ones 'driving' needs, they can also help locating the appropriate extras for the cam etc...etc Another option is Isky which can supply there own cam/springs/pads/retainers....not sure of their specs though Their duration might be getting up there when the lift gets close to .500 My .491 re-ground cam takes .180 -.190 lash pads......sooooo...that gives you somewhat of an idea of lift relative to lash pad thickness, based on a head in 'new' condition that is. Also......you might want to invest in a wideband to help tune those SUs for maximum 'HP'...most people are oblivious when they have rich and lean conditions Was the 'best' thing I bought for my 510...I have 46s on my LZ and they're not a lot of needles available for a 2.3 liter. DIY Quote Link to comment
68Datsun510 Posted May 28, 2013 Report Share Posted May 28, 2013 and I want instantaneous throttle response, I dont want to have any flat spots Solution, dump carbs, fuel inject it. 1 Quote Link to comment
Ranman72 Posted May 28, 2013 Report Share Posted May 28, 2013 ^^^^^^^^^^^ same answer Quote Link to comment
510SSS Posted May 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2013 Meh, I like the old school mechanical factor of carbs and how you tune them by hand, I dont think I could give that up just for a little reliability and hp. Thanks for the advice Sealick, that gave me hella ideas. I think I might just try hitting up Isky and see if they can hook me up with everything I need. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 28, 2013 Report Share Posted May 28, 2013 If you end up with a deficient bottom end you can also go to a 4.11 or 4.375 differential. This will get you up into the revs faster than a 3.889. Doug didn't you figure you had 4.375s? Quote Link to comment
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