Janksun Posted May 22, 2013 Report Share Posted May 22, 2013 Looking into an afternarket aluminum radiator for my 75 620 with L20b, what have you guys been using? Oh also want to go with an electric fan. Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted May 22, 2013 Report Share Posted May 22, 2013 Check out Ebay. There should be one on there. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted May 22, 2013 Report Share Posted May 22, 2013 Champion Radiators but I dont see 620s listed. its a shame theres still lots of 620s on the road. http://www.championradiators.com/Datsun-Nissan-radiators try datsunpartsllc Quote Link to comment
Dawa Posted May 22, 2013 Report Share Posted May 22, 2013 Champion Radiators but I dont see 620s listed. its a shame theres still lots of 620s on the road. http://www.championradiators.com/Datsun-Nissan-radiators try datsunpartsllc and the champion motor that says itll fit a 73 620 DOESNT (fit a 73 620.) its purely a 510 rad, wider, but shorter. i know that as the years went by datsun increased the rad size of the 620s because they were increasing engine size, and in doing so they changed the radiator support too. youre pretty much gonna have to find something of similar dimensions and make it work. believe me, ive looked. koyo said they might do it but they havent yet. Quote Link to comment
Janksun Posted May 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2013 Thanks for the input guys. I looked at eBay first and found for $140 that gives the dimensions, I'll go home today and measure the dimensions on the radiator in my truck to see if it's close to the same. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted May 22, 2013 Report Share Posted May 22, 2013 you have a 75 620 then they are pretty standard by then. the early 620 was a 510 rad then a different top hose to rad was on pass side but not a big deal a new radiator is always a good thing even if 200$ Quote Link to comment
Janksun Posted May 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2013 Yeah I'm just gonna bite the bullet and buy the radiator. And flush the engine, again. Replace thermostat, water pump, and radiator cap if new radiator doesn't come with one. Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted May 22, 2013 Report Share Posted May 22, 2013 I thought you did some of that already :sneaky: Do you has a compressor? Flushing can be a bitch. I hook ziptie the garden hose open sometimes and stick it in the rad cap hole. remove rad hose or petcock, fire up the engine and let it run for a bit... keeping an eye on the temp gauge. Sometimes remove one of the rad hoses, remove the petcock and blow thru that shit with the compressor. sometimes it yields removing gunk, other times I just get soaking wet. Did you replace the rad that came with the truck??? probably free to have the current rad pressure tested, and cleaned. I paid like 80 bucks to have the B done. He flushed it, fixed a pin hole, then lined it with some shit only rad shops can get. Hasn't leaked since and stays really effing cool. Takes a while to warm up now too. Quote Link to comment
Janksun Posted May 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2013 I did do most off that already lolz. James gave me a supposedly brand new water pump and fan clutch, and I replaced the tstat the radiator in it now is a used one I picked up, the old one wasn't repairable. I don't have a compressor but my work does, I could do it there. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted May 23, 2013 Report Share Posted May 23, 2013 I would have run it w/o a stat on a cooler day just to see if anything changes then try drilling a small hole in the stat as a better air bleed bypass and see what that does. try a 54 mm size 160deg I know they dont list it in the book but try a gereric 54mm stat lower hose isnt collapseing under load (rev the motor up) water pums dont need to move alot of water as most time the stat is pretty much barely open Quote Link to comment
Janksun Posted May 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2013 Did a compression test today. Cylinder 1-148 Cylinder 2-120 Cylinder 3-160 Cylinder 4-142 Quote Link to comment
Guest_kamakazi620 Posted May 25, 2013 Report Share Posted May 25, 2013 Did a compression test today. Cylinder 1-148 Cylinder 2-120 Cylinder 3-160 Cylinder 4-142 Eeeek looks like rebuild time...... Quote Link to comment
Janksun Posted May 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2013 Rebuild before canby? I don't think soo... Quote Link to comment
Guest_kamakazi620 Posted May 25, 2013 Report Share Posted May 25, 2013 Rebuild before canby? I don't think soo... well keep her oiled on your way up.. Quote Link to comment
Janksun Posted May 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2013 Lol I'll probably just throw a new HG on it. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted May 25, 2013 Report Share Posted May 25, 2013 just ck the valve lash on that cylinder. might be getting tight. Quote Link to comment
Janksun Posted May 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2013 Valve lash is same as adjusting valves? Or no? Plugs looked like this too Quote Link to comment
Guest_kamakazi620 Posted May 25, 2013 Report Share Posted May 25, 2013 Does it smoke blue at all?? Quote Link to comment
Janksun Posted May 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2013 Smokes on startup and sounds like its firing on 3 cylinders Quote Link to comment
kelowg Posted May 25, 2013 Report Share Posted May 25, 2013 sounds like rings and valve guide seals. what oil u using? i run 20w50, i might even try straight 30w for summer. Quote Link to comment
Janksun Posted May 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2013 I've been running 10w-40 Quote Link to comment
kelowg Posted May 25, 2013 Report Share Posted May 25, 2013 do u add oil often,if not put thicker oil and no smoke in it to keep it goin awhile longer. Quote Link to comment
Janksun Posted May 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2013 I have to add a quart quite often Quote Link to comment
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