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arp head studs on LZ22


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i would think so..

 

i dont think there are ones that are longer than others, right?

 

mock up the head on the block with no HG and see if the hardware will work..

there are 4 studs that go through the cam retainer. they have to be able an extra 1/2" longer due to that. soo far it looks like they will wont. only one way to really find out, and that will be to get motor completely together and run it..... give me about a month

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L motors all use the same length bolts, so if you have a set of studs for a L6 you certainly have enough studs to use on an L4.

 

I have never been a big fan of studs though, they make head removal/installation a bitch. And you really don't even need them, unless you're running a million pounds of turbo boost. Even a full tilt race engine can use OEM bolts. I think having the block o-ringed would be money better spent.

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L motors all use the same length bolts, so if you have a set of studs for a L6 you certainly have enough studs to use on an L4.

 

I have never been a big fan of studs though, they make head removal/installation a bitch. And you really don't even need them, unless you're running a million pounds of turbo boost. Even a full tilt race engine can use OEM bolts. I think having the block o-ringed would be money better spent.

well the main reason is because we have some here at the shop, and when i removed the studs from the L16, one of the studs snapped and also 2 others started giving me problems. so i figured, why not?

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so no drilling of the block necessary.....?

 

Drilling (7 -  1/4"holes) is necessary to keep the cylinder walls at an even temp, Should be 8...but one is already drilled in at the factory. 

If not... there will be wear on one side of the pistons after a few thousand miles .

P5070006.jpg

 

 

P5090003.jpg

 

P5070007.jpg

 

 

I used a laminate trimmer to cut the 2 holes out at the back of the HG...lol

sh6.jpg

 

sh7.jpg

 

Made a jig to drill out the rest....HG doesn't blow out when it's sandwiched between 2 pieces of wood

Total of 9 holes

P5070003.jpg

 

P5070004.jpg

 

When I drilled the holes in the block, I matched the positions with the larger part of the tear drops (coolant passages) in the L head. This enabled the 2 holes per cylinder a little farther apart from each other.....which led to a little more 'meat' on each side of the hole relative to the cylinder wall and edge of deck/block. 

For reference......NGF HG

P5040024.jpg

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